10 replies to this topic

[hyperlexis]

Gentlemen -- the saga of the Caloric combination range from Hell continues... I'm at my wits end.

Previously, the issue was the display was reading 'remove probe' during the self-clean cycle and shutting down. Everyone here who said it was a problem with the meat probe wire was correct. The repirman disconnected the probe wire from the main board and the problem disappeared. The clean cycle proceeded perfectly.

However, a new, serious problem has just cropped up:

When you set the oven to "broil" (with the door open at the stop) the broiler element heats up, and after four or so minutes, there is a 'click,' noise and the element shuts off. A few minutes later, the oven cools and the broil element kicks back on, heats up and shuts off. Over and over. Needless to say, the food doesn't broil properly.

However, if you close the door and latch the self-clean lever, the broil element immediately kicks back on and stays on.

I just had the repairman out and he said that the separate high-limit switch has failed or been damaged -- he said that the switch has three settings, 550, 650 and 1000 degrees. 550 is for broil, 650 is the door lock setting, and 1000 degrees is the clean setting. The high limit Part Number is #0059351 (Maytag). He said that somehow the switch's lowest setting was damaged and that it now thinks the broiler is at 550 when it really is not that high. He said latching the door reroutes power through the 650 "part" of the thermostat so the broiler stays on....

Is this actually possible??????? Can one part of a thermostat 'break' while the other temps are ok? Is my repairman missing something?

I just had this high-limit thermostat part replaced months ago when the original one died completely, shutting off both the brake and broil elements. I miraculously got a brand new OEM part off ebay and installed it and it (initially) worked fine. What could cause a thermostat to break so quickly like this???????? Did disconnecting the meat probe from the control board fry the high limit thermostat? OMG it took me weeks to find this part and they are so rare and very, very expensive.

What should I do? Does anyone rebuild high limit thermostats cheaply? Does anyone know of a good source for a new one or a retrofit one?

Help!

[RegUS_PatOff]

. . . Previously, the issue was the display was reading 'remove probe' during the self-clean cycle and shutting down

you didn't mention in the previous posts that you used self-clean
“My Rules”:
Rule # 1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.
Rule # 2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule # 1.
Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more.
That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.

We would need to see the wiring diagram for Thermostat answers

[hyperlexis]

Yes, I completely understand your opinion on the cleaning cycle issue, absolutely. And I agree that the cycle should be used sparingly, if at all.

However the problem arose after only two or three cycles. Once simply to test the proper operation of the unit. That is simply inexcusable for a new part, -- any new part -- to fail. Especially in a model such as this built with additional robust construction due to the microwave combination aspect.

I will attempt to take photos of the wiring diagram and post them -- it is on the back of the lower front access panel and is yellowed.

Thanks!!!!!

[RegUS_PatOff]

... cleaning cycle issue,
... simply inexcusable for a new part, -- any new part -- to fail

the age and condition of the Oven's insulation also comes into the calculation

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

What's the full model number of the range?

[hyperlexis]

The full model number is "ERR-389 Code 2L"

Whirlpool has archived Caloric microfilms of the model, but nothing on their computers.

Here are some photos of the range, including the high-limit thermostat (the long bulb) (-- the lower, stubby metal probe is the temp 'thermocouple' -- this range for some reason uses two separate thermostats to detect temperatures).

I took multiple close up photos of the sections of the wiring diagram, as requested.

Thanks!

Click link below for images of thermostat and wiring diagrams>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

https://docs.google....lZmY4MDcx&hl=en

[hyperlexis]

Hi There,

Was anyone able to make sense of the wiring diagram / quandry with my Caloric range hi-limit thermostat from my last post this week.

Just checking.

Thanks!!!!!!!

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Topics merged.

hyper, no need to start a new topic for the same problem. Best thing to do is post a *bump* in your existing topic so it moves to the top of the Recent Stack.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Was anyone able to make sense of the wiring diagram / quandry

I took a look at the link when it was posted, but was overwhelmed with all the info..
just took a closer look at it now...
Yes, the Hi-Limit Thermostat looks like it has different settings, depending on whether the Door is latched ...
Couldn't find a replacement part...
You could use a simple (Oven Hi temperature) Hi-Limit and wire it in, if you could mount it somewhere / somehow in a good location.
You'd need a 2nd higher temperature one also wired to the Latch Switch, but I wouldn't suggest using the Self Clean "feature"

[hyperlexis]

OMG there is no other manufacturer who makes a similar thermostat with the three different settings?

Is Stemco still in business? Is there any way to contact them and maybe they would have some help?

It's the craziest system design I have ever seen. I only pray I can find an actual replacement part. The one I bought a few months ago was OEM new in the bag and then it just dies like this.... Grrrrr.

Can a vintage appliance thermostat shop rebuild this type of unit?

I would hate to have the unit ruined simply because of a thermostat.

Thanks in advance for any additional advice!

[hyperlexis]

AMAZING news!!!!!!!

My local appliance parts shop found the OEM High Limit themostat, new! They told me it was the last one on earth... (Hopefully not.) The Amana/Caloric label lists it being from 1999!

I am crossing my fingers this old thing will work.

Do analog, high limit self clean thermostats like this deteriorate with age, even just sitting on a warehouse shelf? Do they corrode internally, or should it be as good as new?

The last oem high-limit thermostat I installed a few months ago lasted only four months, so I want to make darned sure this one will survive as long as possible.

Is there ANYTHING else with my range itself, such as power fluctuations, bad relays, bad installation technique, arcing or bad voltage going to the old thermostat, that could have killed the last high limit thermostat I installed? Something I should triple check before and during installing this 'new' one? I suppose the self clean cycle (only 2x) could have also harmed it, but could ANYTHING else also have contributed to its early demise? (Aside from it simply being a bad unit right from the factory.)

Thanks guys!!!!!!!!