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mr.coffee

Washer and dryer trip breaker [alt post]

15 posts in this topic

I saw this title in a separate post, but the forum wasn't allowing me to reply...so i apologize in advance..

My questions are very similar

I have a washer and dryer hooked up on the same GFCI outlet rated at 15amps [i think]

The breaker in the fusebox is also rated at 15amps

The washer and dryer were running great until about a year ago, when they BOTH would switch off.

I would have to hit the red reset button on the outlet to get them working again.

sometimes I had to this a few times a day.

Also of note,

when it was only the washer running, it would switch off, but the dryer has never switched off when running on its own.

I changed out the GFCI outlet for another 15amps one, but that didn't help.

Not sure what my problem is-

I was thinking i could..

1- could be the washer and dryer have gone bad and i need to replace [$$ option]

2- change the breaker switch AND outlet to 20amps [$ option]

3- call and electrician [$ option]

What do you guys think? I'm not an electrician so i've run out of ideas...

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actually upon further inspection the outlet is rated at 20amps

so

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model numbers ?

The Motors or electronics may have become wet or moist from being in the basement.

Appliance manufacturers don't recommend using GFI's for appliances,

but they may be required for certain local electrical codes.

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thanks for your quick reply

dont know the model numbers offhand...i will check.

but its in a completely dry basement...i have my home office down there as well as the living room-

maybe i should switch out the outlet to a regular one?

do you think a 20amp breaker would make a difference?

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do you think a 20amp breaker would make a difference?

You can't just change out to bigger breakers as the size of the wiring is matched to a particular size, for 20A circuit you also require #12 wire - most 15A branches are #14. Most Manufacturers however, do not recommend using GFCI outlets or you risk nuisance shutdowns

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mmm...well i swapped out the 15amp for a 20amp breaker.

although i couldn't see a gauge number on the wire...would it be a severe problem to have 20amp breaker on #14 wire [if that was the case]?

then i was gonna go get a regular 20amp outlet and hook the washer and dryer to that.

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...would it be a severe problem to have 20amp breaker on #14 wire [if that was the case]?

.. don't let the insurance company find it, if your house burns down

(if you're still alive)

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would it be a severe problem to have 20amp breaker on #14 wire

Not if the actions depicted in following pictures seem normal to you:

shock.gif

images7.jpg

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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wow!

that serious huh?

so swap them back i guess

still cant figure out what to do!

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NEVER violate electrical codes - they are there for a reason !!

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then i was gonna go get a regular 20amp outlet and hook the washer and dryer to that.

By "regular" - I assume you mean non GFCI, why not a "regular" 15A ? it is tripping because of leakage to ground, not overcurrent. Also, the Dryer should have a different circuit (220V?)

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.. non GFCI, why not a "regular" 15A ?

.. the Dryer should have a different circuit (220V?)

1) the GFI is his Wall Outlet

2) Gas Dyer ? :whistling:

Some codes allow "non-GFI" for "non-exposed" Outlets.

(hidden behind the Washer / Dryer, etc)

(not available for someone to plug-in a "questionable" device)

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ok thanks for the help-

looks like there are other places in my fuse box where the electrician hooked up 20amp breaker to #14 wire-

in any case i swapped out the 20amp i had for a 15

i'll get a new no GFCI outlet and see if that helps my washer and dryer from stopping due to tripping the GFCI

appreciate you guys taking the time to answer my noob questions!

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2) Gas Dyer ? :whistling:

From the pages of DUH Magazine ................

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yeah its a gas dryer

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