Maytag Neptune Top Loader FAV6800AW
Posted 10 April 2011 - 08:47 AM
I removed the front panel, and checked the drain pump. There was nothing obstructing any of the hoses (out of the drum, into the drain pump, out of the drain pump, into the wall).
Then I put the wet clothes back in, and ran the spin cycle. I lifted the top of the cabinet, but kept the top door closed, so I could see if anything was causing an imbalance in how the clothes were spreading out in the drum. I observed that the washer plates (my neptune doensn't have an agitator, it has two plates on the side of the drum) spin with the drum starts to spin, moving all of the clothes to one side, causing an imbalance in the drum. I tried to manually move the clothes to keep the drum balanced as the drum was trying to pick up speed. But eventually the drum would spin too fast and eventually the clothes would end up on one side, causing the machine to stop the spin cycle and spit out a "dc" error code.
Do the washer plates normally spin during the spin cycle when the drum starts to spin? If not, is there any way you can fix this?
Additionally, I did disengage the drum displacement sensor arm from the drum. I taped sensor arm in between the 1 and 2 marker positions, to trick the washer into thinking the drum was not moving around too much. So I'm pretty sure it isn't a faulty drum displacement sensor.
Posted 10 April 2011 - 09:14 AM
perhaps a kind master will link you the part...they may need the first 2 digits of your serial...
Posted 10 April 2011 - 10:56 AM
Clutch # 5
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Posted 10 April 2011 - 11:52 AM
My serial number is 15086776EX.
I took out the clutch and the long coil spring is broken. I'm looking around to see if I can find a place that sells just the spring. The bearings were a little rusty, but I cleaned then with WD-40 and they seem pretty good now. If anybody has any leads on suitable clutch springs, I would definitely appreciate it.
Posted 11 April 2011 - 12:55 AM
“” If not, is there any way you can fix this?”” Yes if you catch the issue in time and you don’t have a leaky tub seal which you I feel you do have. You had two Clutch Pulley Failures lets discuss the unbalance issue first causing DC and UC unbalance error codes with the wash tub banging around in Spin Cycle.
“”I observed that the washer plates (my neptune doensn't have an agitator, it has two plates on the side of the drum) spin with the drum starts to spin, moving all of the clothes to one side, causing an imbalance in the drum.””
You are really tuned in to this issue with the your troubleshooting and observing the tumblers continuing to rotate as the wash basket began to spin up………excellent observation and troubleshooting!
When this happens the One-Way Roller needle bearings in the Clutch Pulley fail to lock up solid when you enter into a Spin Cycle. Those One-Way Roller needle bearings in the Clutch Pulley begin to slip and not lock up solid when the Control Board signals the Motor Controller to reverse motor direction to CCW rotation the Spin direction. If you enter into a spin cycle and the One-Way Roller needle bearings slip in the Clutch Pulley you we get agitator shaft rotation and the tumblers begin to rotate unbalancing the wash basket load. You can manually redistribute the wash load till the cows come home and might make it thru the Spin Cycle but this is a classic clutch malfunction for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A TL’s.
If the issue is caught early and there is no rust contaminating those One-Way Roller needle bearings you can sometimes get a way for a while with Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller needle bearing maintenance and clear the unbalance errors for a while. Somewhere on this site I have a note on the issue and maintenance.
Your second problem with the Clutch Pulley (broken Large Wrap spring) I feel was caused by the Spinner Shaft Coupler in the Clutch Pulley seizing up in the Clutch Pulley during the wash/agitate cycle. Was the Spinner Shaft Coupler seized in the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller needle bearing on tear down?
If you were able to remove the Spinner Shaft coupler I do feel it seized to cause the broken Large Wrap spring. That’s the only way I can see the breaking/parting or severely bending up the Large Wrap spring in the Clutch pulley.
With the rust you described I feel you have a leaky tub seal and that is a bit more work to fix but can be handled by a DIY owner with basic skill sets. I have a links I can send you to where I have helped other owners do a cost effective Outer Tub rebuild consisting of replacing the Tub Seal, Tranny O-ring, Outer Tub bearings (6207-2RS) and I recommend replacing the Spinner Support bearings at tear down. You will get 5 yr’s additional service out of those Outer Tub parts for under $70 it’s the failed Clutch Pulley that is adding all the extra cost of a reliable fix action.
To get you back in service for now you need to replace the Clutch Pulley. There is no replacement Large Wrap spring for the Clutch Pulley you need to buy the assembly. That should get you back in service for a while……just hard to tell how long. Despite what is said about the machine it is very easy to work on once you get some basic hands on. You have a series 15 machine ""15086776EX""
Almost forgot about this ""Additionally, I did disengage the drum displacement sensor arm from the drum. I taped sensor arm in between the 1 and 2 marker positions, to trick the washer into thinking the drum was not moving around too much. So I'm pretty sure it isn't a faulty drum displacement sensor."" It sounds like you have the Service Manual for the machine it will help with the basics of troubleshooting.
Your TDS is working as designed....shuting the Spin Cycle down with excessive Wash Tub swings. If it failed you might get a continous UC error or you might have the machine go for walk with improper signaling to the Control Board.
On tear down of the Clutch Pulley did you your Clutch Pulley have the upper bearing ring installed? The upper bearing ring is in the assembly of the exploded parts view labled 5. It's the upper most part of that assembly.
Edited by dh1200s, 11 April 2011 - 02:41 AM.
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