Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

WCVH6600HWW - repair or replace


  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1 tsutton

tsutton

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 20 posts

Posted 11 April 2011 - 09:47 PM

I mistakenly posted this on the applianceguru site so pardon my idiocy if you have already seen this. Anyway, all advice or help is appreciated...
----

So, my craptastic GE front loader has decided it doesn't want to spin anymore. In test mode it does nothing on the T10 or T11 spin tests. No 120v out to the inverter or at the inverter in test mode. Motor ohm readings appear OK - 6 Ohms on the input wires and ~115-116 on the sensor wires. While not in test mode there is 120v at the inverter when a cycle is started. When I start a cycle it goes through an initial test mode, pump comes on for a few seconds, some water sprays into the tub (just enough to wash the detergent into the tub, the tub sometimes rotates a couple of inches in either direction, then acts like it is doing a normal cycle. No more water gets sprayed in and it never tumbles or spins (I've never sat through an entire cycle).

I *think* it is the inverter but I'm not positive. Should I try repairing it or just move on to another machine? Any opinions on the problem or recommendations on a new washer (wife insists on a FL machine). I know I could buy the inverter from an online retailer with a return policy but the price is 50% higher than a local retailer with no returns on electronics.

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,245 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 12 April 2011 - 02:10 AM

Have you verified that the door lock is working completely? If so, then it's very likely that you need a new motor inverter board. It's a no-risk proposition, too: buy the part through us and if it doesn't fix it, return it for a refund; all you're out is shipping! :thumbsup:

#3 tsutton

tsutton

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 20 posts

Posted 12 April 2011 - 06:43 PM

I'm not exactly sure how to test the full functionality of the door switch but from all observations during normal use and test modes it locks and unlocks as expected. Back to my original tests

--Motor sensor (two yellow wires on P9 at control board) should have ~118 ohms - if not the sensor is bad and I'm supposed to replace the motor. My reading is 113.8 ohms. Is that approximate "enough" or is the motor gone? The other ohm readings at the motor indicated it was OK.

--I don't have 120v at the blue/red wires at the inverter during spin tests. There is voltage when trying to start a normal drain and spin cycle but it only lasts long enough for the tub to turn a few inches then the voltage drops to zero. The pump continues to run and the timer counts down. Assuming the motor is OK is it the inverter or the control board?

--All the other service mode "T" tests except the spin and tumble test seem to work OK.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks!

#4 tsutton

tsutton

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 20 posts

Posted 13 April 2011 - 03:03 PM

Well, no go on the new inverter board. I purchased one at a local appliance parts dealer and the end result is the same. The tub does spin a bit more during the initial startup of a cycle but stops after about half a rotation. Tests T10 and T11 show no response other than the pump running.

So - motor or control board or something else?

Thanks.

P.S. If anyone is interested in a WH12X10418 inverter that was installed for about 5 minutes make me an offer.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics