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dariusf

Frigidaire PHSC39EESS5 refrigerator cooling issue

22 posts in this topic

Hi, I fixed the dishwasher and now the refrigerator is acting up :wallbash: guess all appliances give out after 5 years now day, hopefully its something small.

Frigidaire PHSC39EESS5 SS side by side.

We started seeing food spoiling way too quickly. I set the refrigerator temp to 33 (the lowest it will go) and freezer is set to 0. At least thats whats showing on the digital readout. The freezer section keeps stuff frozen quite well. The refrigerator section using two thermometers stays at 43. Thats whole 10 degrees more then what it is set at.

I checked:

lights - they turn off, can see them off when slightly opening the door

damper - removed the cover and observed it working while I change the thermostat

return vent - all clear

evaporator fan - removed the cover in the freezer section and the fan is spinning fine

condenser coils - there was a bunch of dust there, ok, more then should be :) all cleaned with vacuum and long brush - no temp change.

condenser fan motor - turns on fine and spins well with no noises etc.

condenser - sounds good - frezzer is cold so it has to run good

door gasket - its a bit squashed on the corners but its only 5 years old, maybe the seal is not good, looked ok

cooling coils - its frost free model - there is some frost on them, nothing excessive, I guess, not sure if thats too much?

The only thing I can think of is the thermometer inside is broken showing 33 degrees while its 43 in reality. The damper does not close wide enough and stay open long enough? Or the door gasket needs changing? I'm out of ideas.

SAM_0398.JPG

SAM_0397_3.JPG

Edited by dariusf

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Nice pics and good job with your preliminary investigation! :thumbsup:

With everything you're describing, we're dealing with either an air distribution problem or a temperature measurement problem. One thing I didn't see listed in your checks was the return vent. Should be down around the crisper drawer area, remove the crisper drawers completely to see/check 'em. Could be frosted over or covered with an errant plastic bag.

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Thanks !

I did check the return vent and its all clear.

Do the cooling coils look good to you with that slight frost on them?

if its the temp measurement issue, is this the probe that might be failing? or you think my thermomiters might be wrong?

http://www.repaircli...ber=PHSC39EESS3

after about 30min the temp is down to about 41 degrees now

01041565.jpg01041565.jpg

Edited by dariusf

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Evaporator coil looked fine and this is affirmed by 0F in the freezer-- wouldn't make that if there was something wrong with the sealed system.

If all the air flow paths are good, then that only leaves the FF compt thermistor by DEEduction. :beatnik:

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The Fridge and Freezer Thermistor Sensors are the same.

You could try swapping them, and/or measure each resistance at room temperature.

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Reopening this old thread. The fridge is acting up again :(

 

The temp got up to 60 degrees in the refrigerator section while staying super cold in the freezer. I checked the airflow path and all is good. Removed the cover in the freezer to check the evaporator coil. Looks fine like the picture in my first post. I power cycled the fridge and replaced the temperature sensor. Did not fix it so I then removed the cover over the damper. While adjusting the refrigerator temperature the door did not move. I pulled it open by hand and could feel the cold air blowing. When the temp got down, the damper closed the door. I got the temp back up and while I can hear the stepper motor the door does not open again.

 

Does this sound like a known issue with these dampers? It can close but not open?

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The temp got up to 60 degrees in the refrigerator section while staying super cold in the freezer.

 

Do you have a measurement of the freezer temperature?  Unless you have a calibrated pinky, like yours so very truly, you can't tell the difference between 0F and 15F by feel.  Yet these temperatures have big meaning when diagnosing refrigerator problems.  A freezer that can't maintain 0F easily is usually an indication of a condenser problem, air leak, or even a sealed system problem.   So we need accurate temps in both compartments.  

 

 I checked the airflow path and all is good....When the temp got down, the damper closed the door. I got the temp back up and while I can hear the stepper motor the door does not open again.

 

Does this sound like a known issue with these dampers? It can close but not open?

 

 

 

I think you done found the problem, budrow:  it's an air flow problem caused by a stripped damper motor.  Come git you one:  

 

Part number: AP3581694

Part number: AP3581694

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Do you have a measurement of the freezer temperature?  Unless you have a calibrated pinky, like yours so very truly, you can't tell the difference between 0F and 15F by feel.  Yet these temperatures have big meaning when diagnosing refrigerator problems.  A freezer that can't maintain 0F easily is usually an indication of a condenser problem, air leak, or even a sealed system problem.   So we need accurate temps in both compartments.  

 

 

 

I think you done found the problem, budrow:  it's an air flow problem caused by a stripped damper motor.  Come git you one:  

 

Part number: AP3581694

Part number: AP3581694

 

Thank you for your help, I greatly apreciate it.

 

I did use a thermometer to confirm the freezer section besides the 'rock hard ice crem' method :)))

 

I guess I'm ordering the new damper and for now I will have my wife manually open/close as needed :)  I kept it open with a piece of candy overnight and the temp got down to 24 so had to force it close.

 

Hope thats it

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Hi, i unpluged the connector and was removing the old damper and somehow when I forced the damper out, it pulled the connector forcing all the cables out of it :)

 

So while I can fix the connector by inserting the cables back in, I'm not 100% sure on the cable order. I think thats how they went,

 

from left to right:  white, black/yellow, brown/yelow, red/yelow

 

anyone can confirm this? see the pic with the old damper attached and fixed plug inserted 

 

 

fridge1.jpg

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05lw.jpg

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you guys are awesome, thats how I got it in, still no action from the damper, got temp to 60 and it never opened, I opened by hand and and now the temp is down to 40 at least thats what the fridge shows. I have electronic thermometer next to the fridge one and that shows 43. The fridge is set to 47 so I would think it should have sent signal to the damper by now and close the door. I took apart the old damper and observed the gears working fine. I think its not a damper at this point but I guess the control board? Any suggestions were to go from here?

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I might add that when I lowered the temp, the fan turned on and cold air started blowing in to the FF section but the damper door did not move. I have it connected not mounded in to the oppening so easy to check.

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Do you still hear the stepper motor running when the damper should open?

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no I do not hear it, its possible there is an issue with the plug I guess. I assume that if the FF temp is set at lets say 40, as soon as the temp gets down to 39, the door should close and if the temp gets above 41 the door should open?

 

your post some time in the past:

 

 

Just operate the fresh food control to make it either warmer or colder so the damper will actuate in responce. While doing this, monitor damper motor voltage for 120vac. Monitor the voltage at E6 on the ADC board-- this is the input to the DPDT switch you asked about (more on that below). When the damper is finished changing state, the voltage will go away.

If you're getting 120vac at E6 of the ADC board, then check damper motor windings for continuity. The actual resistance is not important-- you're just looking to see if it's open.

 

Now I have to dig up the wiring diagram someplace :)

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no I do not hear it, its possible there is an issue with the plug I guess.

 

Then something has changed since you replaced the damper.  Re-check wire connections for good connection and proper order.  Measure the voltage going to the damper motor.  You're looking for 12vdc, not sure between which two wires but white is probably common.  So try the white-black and white-red pair.  If the damper motor isn't getting voltage, then check connections.  If good, then the muthaboard may have shat the bed.  Did you unplug the box before you replaced the muthaboard?

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Only thing I replaced was the thermistor and the damper. I did not kill power to the fridge when changing these.

 

Is this the board you mention?  Part number: ap4362602

Part number: ap4362602

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Added part photo.

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That's just the display/interface board.  The power for the damper and all the components comes from the main board down at the bottom:  Part number: AP3683024

Part number: AP3683024

 

But verify voltages before you buy the board.  

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I confirmed that when the FF temp is about 60 and I set the temp to lowest 33, the Red and brown shows 12v, red and black shows 7.5v, red and white is 12v. This would sound like power to the motor to open the door. Then I observed the opposite Red and brown shows 0v, red and black shows 3v, red and white is 2.6v, I assume that’s close. Raising or lowering the temp effects the switch of voltages.

 

When I connect the 4 wires, red pic1, brown pic 2, black pin 3, white pin 4, nothing happens on both dampers.  Could it be that both dampers are bad? Or the voltages are not correct? Or the pin order is wrong?

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That wire harness connector on the damper should be keyed so it can only go on one way.  Can you confirm this the case with yours?

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correct it is, red pin1, brown pin 2, black pin 3, white pin 4. couple posts up I mentioned that when I unplugged plug from the damper and then tried to remove the damper from the fridge wall, I had to force it out with couple screwdrivers and it hit the plug on the way out and pulled the cables out of it. Talk about bad luck. so I was not 100% sure of the order of the cables. Post 10 shows the cnnection pinout and it matches how the wires come out from the top so I assume its correct but perhaps it is now and thats whay both dampers do not work. Other than that, both dampers are bad or the voltages are not correct from the main board.


 

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I had to force it out with couple screwdrivers and it hit the plug on the way out and pulled the cables out of it. Talk about bad luck.

To quote Homer Simpson...

Now the uncertainty is whether or not you're actually making connection through the desecrated wire harness connector.

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Thanks for cheering me up :) I'm always very careful with things like this and was trying to do it as carefully as possible :) well it did not work out like it. Will trying varies combination passably damage the motor? Its only 4 wires so 24 combinations to test :) For now I'm acting as the damper but it’s a pain.

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