Maytag Neptune TL Washer Model FAV9800AWW
Posted 15 April 2011 - 06:59 PM
That noise went away. Worked well for two weeks.
Now, the washer starts a cycle, fills up, and washes clothes for hours. The machine will not drain the wash water (unless you to to System check and turn drain on).
Try to troubleshoot. Get machine control board on service mode. Try quick spin test. Results: Tries to drain and get stuck on that #1 step. Will stay there for hours!
Try Servive Cycle. Result: 1. Lid locks – Acceptable 2. Press Start/Pause – Acceptable 3. Lid unlocks – Acceptable 4. Open Lid – Acceptable 5. Close Lid – Acceptable 6. Press Start/Pause – Acceptable 7. Lid locks – Acceptable 8. Cold water bleach fill – Acceptable. Water ran fine. 9. Bleach fill – Acceptable. Water ran fine. It shows the low and medium fill as full. Then washing machine is stuck. Water will not drain period. Display states it is trying to drain, put does it not.
Only method of removing water is going to System Check and using drain on button. Verified that water is coming out of drain hose, motor control is working, and system relay works.
I replaced my Machine Control Board. $$$ board. Results: Same as above.
What is wrong? Do I need to replace my pressure switch? Maybe drain pump?
Appreciate your assistance.
Posted 16 April 2011 - 02:05 PM
One on one repair help now available !
Posted 17 April 2011 - 01:49 AM
“”Now, the washer starts a cycle, fills up, and washes clothes for hours. The machine will not drain the wash water (unless you to to System check and turn drain on).””
OK it sounds like the Drain Pump and discharge line are good to go. If I do a Bulky Item cycle that will do a High water fill about 7.5” of water in the Wash Basket/Tub if I turn on the Drain Pump in Service Mode that will empty the tub in about 20 seconds or so. If you have a similar discharge/flow rate then I feel the Drain Pump and discharge line are good to go.
“”I replaced my Machine Control Board. $$$ board. Results: Same as above.”” Sorry to hear that. I hope you can return the Control Board if purchased thru this site you are good to go. You have done excellent work with your troubleshooting efforts in Service Mode. This makes it much easier for us to help you thru this issue.
“”Moderate bearing noise when tumbling”” In wash agitate cycle the Upper One-Way bearing ring and the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing are just sitting idle only the Spinner Support Bearings come into the mix with the agitator shaft turning in them driving the tranny.
“”Try to troubleshoot. Get machine control board on service mode. Try quick spin test. Results: Tries to drain and get stuck on that #1 step. Will stay there for hours!””
I have seen issues of this type (on other DIY forums) with this failure symptom and no error code generation you have the LCD flavor of the machine. The machine was entering into Spin Cycle after wash cycle and would start and stop for ever and never advance the timer countdown. I finally got an owner to work with me. I had the owner drop out the Clutch Pulley and the issue turned out to be a seized upper One-Way Bearing Ring above the Clutch Pulley. Your machine is a Series 10 from the 1st two digits of you machines S/N and for sure it will use the Upper Bearing ring above the Clutch Pulley.
I know you made it thru the Quick Spin test previously up to max indicated 850 RPM. I think we may have a seized Upper Bearing ring.
I tell all owners that the FAV6800A and FAV9800A TL’s are at the point in their service life that it’s Tub Seal replacement time. If we get you working I would recommend a Outer Tub rebuild and for about $60 or so you will get another 5 to 6 yrs of service out of the Outer Tub.
I believe if you drop the Clutch Pulley out of the machine you will find much rust contamination of the Clutch Pulley and Upper bearing One-Way clutches bearings.
I feel the next step is to remove the Clutch Pulley and let’s see what you find. I have a post around here somewhere which was one of my 1st on removing the Clutch Pulley. I recommend laying machine on its back blocked up enough protect the discharge pipe. This will give you a bit more access in removing and remounting the Clutch Pulley...........Dick
Edited by dh1200s, 17 April 2011 - 01:58 AM.
Posted 17 April 2011 - 06:29 AM
Posted 17 April 2011 - 12:08 PM
""I tell all owners that the FAV6800A and FAV9800A TL’s are at this point in their service life that it’s Tub Seal replacement time. If we get you working I would recommend a Outer Tub rebuild and for about $60 to $80 should get you another 5 to 6 yrs of service out of the Outer Tub."".
Do you have the Service Manual? If you can tollerate the down time and want to do an Outer Tub rebuild I will give you some notes and pics for support. This is not cost effective unless you DIY the Outer Tub rebuild. I will point you to recent link on another forum where I helped a two owners do a complete Outer Tub rebuild consisting of Replacing the tranny O-ring, Tub Seal, Upper and Lower Outer Tub bearings and the the bearings in the Spinner Support. It may sound like a big deal but if you read the post you will find its not so bad and can decide if this is a direction for you.
I have some pics on this forum of my Outer Tub rebuild at this link My link. That will give some feel for an Outer Tub rebuild but focus on the Clutch Pulley for now and lets get you back in service.
This is a great forum with tons of positive support that will help get you back in service if you decide to DIY the fix......Dick
Edited by dh1200s, 17 April 2011 - 01:28 PM.
Posted 17 April 2011 - 01:21 PM
I removed the front panel and look at the upper part of the clutch pulley. It appears to have rust on it. I will post a picture of it within minutes.
Posted 17 April 2011 - 01:21 PM
“”FYI, the logic of this machine is set so it will not drain untill AFTER the tub spin reaches a spin speed of 50 rpm””
All three of my machines a Series 10, 16 and 17 machines start off the Spin Cycle of a Spin Only Cycle or the 1st Spin Cycle during the selected wash cycle at 90 RPM then step up from there. I believe the firmware in the Control Board is the same for my FAV6800A and UpperFixer FAV9800A for the first Spin Cycle 90 RPM based on page 23 of the FAV6800A/FAV9800A section of the Service Manual Quick Spin Test. The FAV6800A has a top spin rpm of 850 RPM and per the SM the FAV9800A has a top Spin Speed of 1000 RPM.
The SM 16022808 Revision 0 December 2003 is what I have for reference and as viewed/confirmed in Service Mode on all three of my machines.
I see approximately 50 to 54 RPM on all three machines for wash agitate cycle. I believe Bulky Items wash cycle is slightly less around 40 RPM. There may be other wash cycles selections that have a different tumbler/agitation speed.
I agree on a possible Upper Bearing ring as a fail point as mentioned earlier. Need to get that Clutch Pulley removed and see what’s up. I’ll post some info for removing inspecting and clean up of the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearings if possible........Dick
Edited by dh1200s, 17 April 2011 - 01:29 PM.
Posted 17 April 2011 - 01:27 PM
""I removed the front panel and look at the upper part of the clutch pulley. It appears to have rust on it. I will post a picture of it within minutes.""
Good deal I won't post my disasembly instructions unless you need help to drop out the Clutch Pulley............Dick
Edited by dh1200s, 17 April 2011 - 01:34 PM.
Posted 17 April 2011 - 01:33 PM
For manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/
For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship
Posted 17 April 2011 - 01:47 PM
Here are pictures I took of the clutch area without the clutch being removed.
It appears water is coming down via the rust droplets.
I will pull the clutch and supply pictures.
Is this the service manual you spoke of earlier? My link
To perform what you said needed to be done, how much time would it take? I have moderate DYI skills. I took an entire dash out of my Ford Expedition and fixed a leak when I was quoted $2000 for the repairs.
Appears that I need to get the washer out of the laundry room to work on it if it will take some time.
How do you post pictures to a message?
Posted 17 April 2011 - 02:23 PM
It appears that I am not allowed to post pictures.
If you send me your e-mail address, I will send them to you.
Posted 17 April 2011 - 02:50 PM
I believe you need to purchase this ""For manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology...g/apprentice/""
""Is this the service manual you spoke of earlier? My link""
No you need to purchase this ""For manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology...g/apprentice/""
""To perform what you said needed to be done, how much time would it take? I have moderate DYI skills. I took an entire dash out of my Ford Expedition and fixed a leak when I was quoted $2000 for the repairs.""
I feel you are qualified see KDOG's post. This is not rocket science just basic mechanical skill sets and common sense......you are over qualified from where I sit with your previous DIY efforts. You will save a ton of money if you decide to jump in and can tolerate some down time....I'll just try to fill in the blanks.
""how much time would it take?"" Mark that is hard for me to say. You could run into issues as I did on removing the Spinner Support. If everything went as planned and you had the parts ready to go I would say a couple of hours to tear down the Outer Tub and pound out the old Outer Tub bearings and Spinner Support bearings. A couple of hours to replace the Tranny Ring, Tub Seal the new Outer Tub bearings and Spinner Support bearings. Add some clean up time for inner and outer tub mold and corrision clean up of the Spinner Support.
I can't help you with the Service Manual its 14.2MB. Just join the forum it is money well spent to help support the forum........Dick
Edited by dh1200s, 17 April 2011 - 10:39 PM.
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