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Kenmore 417.92702200 Dryer/Washer Stacked Motor Vibrates loudly then Thermal Protection Pops


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13 replies to this topic

#1 mslezak

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 09:58 AM

This dryer makes a loud vibration noise (sounds terrible), and within 20 seconds, the thermal or overload switch turns the motor off. About 10 minutes later, you can turn it on again to the same terrible noise and overload. I took the belt off to see if it was the rollers or anything else, still makes that loud noise and pops. I read the other side is attached to the blower fan. Was wondering if that can get clogged and make noises, or if my motor is just bad.

Any help is appreciated. And I can't get a good answer on the replacement motor - seems there are so many models that apparently fit this. Thanks!

-Matt

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 11:21 AM

.. the blower fan. Was wondering if that can get clogged and make noises,

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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 09:48 AM

If there's something caught in the blower, it can put enough extra load on the motor to make it draw more current and kick out on thermal overload.

#4 certified tech group 51

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 11:05 AM

The blower possibly lost the flat on the "D" ..........(part of the shaft hub)..... Blower P/N 131476300 plus new clamp p/n 5303304824.......... Remove the panel between washer and dryer sections...Remove #50 safety panel.. remove #4, screws......... remove #6, duct........remove the screw holding on the exhaust elbow.......... remove the clamp ( I have seen a 'C' clip on the motor shaft on some models )......remove the screws holding the outer blower housing and pull the top part of the blower towards you and down wards....... pull blower off and slip it up and out.........Install in the reverse order....TEST unit after assy....

#5 mslezak

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 12:16 PM

I checked the blower and it spins freely by hand, along with the motor. Nothing is stuck in there.

Motor runs extremely loud and the blower fan moves freely, still pops the circuit. Ordered a new motor today.

Thanks for the tips!

#6 mslezak

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Posted 24 April 2011 - 01:53 PM

I have the whole dryer apart, but can't seem to get the blower wheel off, and I can't get the #27 clamps off that hold the motor down.

-Is there a special way to remove those clamps that hold the motor in place?

#7 mslezak

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 09:40 PM

I got the new motor in, but the blower fan wheel was clamped on (no wonder it didn't unscrew out!). That wheel is broken too...

FYI anyone getting the blower fan out, you have to remove that panel in the front that goes between the washer and dryer. Then you can get the screws out that can't be reached from above.

The motor clamps have an indent toward one end that you can just push down on with a screw driver until it unhooks... the back one comes out first, then the front one appears after the whole blower housing is removed.

Thanks for the help all..

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 09:46 PM

Nice job! And domo for the followup. :thumbsup:

#9 mslezak

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 08:52 PM

STILL NOT WORKING! Runs a few minutes and then the thermal protection circuit trips... now the dryer sounds a lot better, more normal. A little loud at first, then very smooth, and 5 seconds later, thermal protection kicks on! There is one spot when turning the drum manually where a click or slightly different noise is heard, signalling the drum's rotation is not 100% smooth all the way around.

Got the new motor in. Couldn't find a fan blade that would match the dimensions of the blower wheel with threads, so I used an epoxy to setup threads in the old blower wheel. Seemed to rotate find by hand, and sounded fine after reassembly with the motor on. The motor was still popping without a load and with the blower after several seconds (10 maybe). I had to bend the pulley mount out slightly for the new motor. This means the new motor's drivewheel for the the belt must stick out farther. Not sure if I can screw that pulley down further or what... but now the belt around the drum is pulled slightly toward the back compared to its old position.

I'm worried I got a bad motor. Or the drum isn't aligned right. Or my drum rollers should be replaced (I have a set).

Any thoughts before I call a repair service? Thanks!

Edited by mslezak, 26 April 2011 - 08:54 PM.


#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 09:08 PM

... STILL NOT WORKING! Runs a few minutes and then the thermal protection circuit trips...
... The motor was still popping without a load and with the blower
... Any thoughts before I call a repair service? Thanks!

1) Dryer Cabinet must be fully assembled for correct air-flow
2) Does the Motor run smooth without the Blower Wheel and without popping the Overload ?
3) $ $

http://www.repaircli...asp?R=154&N=473

 

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#11 mslezak

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 09:49 PM

1) unit is fully assembled now
2) motor runs smooth, didn't wait until a pop... motor still popped thermal protection with the dryer wheel load only - front cover not on
3) maybe time to call unless I'm missing something.. . bad motor or drum bearings or something...

#12 mslezak

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 05:44 PM

I replaced the motor and blower wheel with factory OEM parts. The motor sounds great, but the overload still pops!

Geese I hope it wasn't the drum bearing or rollers causing all these issues. That would mean my other motor may be okay (although it sounded TERRIBLE). Or multiple parts went out at once...

Having an appliance tech out tomorrow, will post the resolution.

Thanks all

#13 mslezak

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 11:10 AM

Tech came out and found the dryer OUTLET was miswired - the neutral was hot. Just swapped the wires at the outlet and it works again. Can't believe it ran for years that way. Tech said running that motor at 220V for so long fried it. It is amazing nothing else broke.

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 11:26 AM

sounds odd... possible, but if that was the case,
The Dryer Heater would only draw 1/4 of the designed wattage .. and would take a long time to dry.
Tthe Washer Motor and Pump Motor would have been running at 220v.
The Dryer Drum Light, which I think you don't have on that model, would burn out instantly ...
And I would think the Motors running at 220v would burn out in a few hours or less...
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