F&P smartdrive: OOB problem.. I think
Posted 24 October 2005 - 04:48 AM
I diagnosed it (just by educated guesswork) to be a problem with the OOB gear. I found the OOB the switch, and indeed it was all corroded and my meter showed he no worky. I went down to the local electronics shop and got a generic micro switch to replace it and bunged it in (wasn't as simple as that because the mounts for the old switch had been broken, but a bit of epoxy and some little screws and it's as good as nearly new). Now it will spin but only when I advance it to final spin; in the spin cycle between wash and rinse it still seems to think it's out of balance.
I tried bypassing the switch (running a jumper across the leads) to see if it was a mechanical problem with the little lever thing, but the result was the same. That switch is normally closed isn't it? (I'm guessing it is, because trying with an open circuit resulted in the machine not starting at all).
I'm waiting for the "help me" beeps now, I'll tell you what the result of a diagnostic test is once I can.
TIA, this is a fantastic forum!
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Posted 24 October 2005 - 05:27 AM
Shock therapy was succesful, but unfortunately the patient died in the process.. No response once I reset the RCD on the meter board and powered it back up. Looks like I'm up for a new controller board. Can anyone help me out with the part number maybe?
Posted 24 October 2005 - 05:31 AM
Posted 24 October 2005 - 05:40 AM
Oh btw I just found the "read this before posting page" (I found the site by googling so dodn't see that bit first) the model# from the sticker on the back is actually MW051-U product 93915.
Posted 25 October 2005 - 10:57 PM
First up there is only a few volts DC going through that switch hence its sensitivity to the corrosion.
You will have a blue module part number 425260. If you are in NZ they are no longer available ex F&P here but if you let me know where you are I can put you in touch with an outlet for reworked ones.
Might pay to remove the controller and open it up. At the end near the input plug you will find the fuse. Try replacing it and you may be lucky enough for it to do a Lazerus for you.
There is an upgrade kit out now for the balance switch part number 420313. from your post though it may seem you have problems apart from the switch. So try the fuse and if you get it going try the following steps to get a fault code.
With the machine off press and hold wash temp down then press power. Then press water level down to turn the low level light off. Next push power and the machine will be off but with the green wash lights flashing. Then turn the machine on and let it run through a wash. If it senses any problems it will immediately stop and start beeping. Turn the machine off. Again hold water temp down and press power. Then press spin speed up til you have spin hold and slow spin lights on. Make a note of which lights are on across the top and let us know. We can then tell you the fault and possibly a cure.
Posted 26 October 2005 - 01:28 AM
Normally earthing something at logic level voltage has no effect other than to set it to zero, but there was enough current going through it to leave a blackened patch on the paint work of the chassis. Maybe there's something more amiss with the controller...
Anyway I will investigate the internal fuse as I guess the control assembly is going to be a bit more pricey than a fuse. Thanks
Oh yeah i'm in Oz, (melbourne to be exact)
Posted 26 October 2005 - 06:07 PM
Regarding the switch and the spark: while it was spinning I measured 125V DC between the swicth leads and ground. It didn't have this voltage at any other time, just during the spin cycle. There was no AC voltage present. Could this be coming from the electonic braking? Is there an earthing problem maybe..?
When I changed the fuse on the controller board I pulled the circuit board out to check for dry solder joints and obviously fried components. I did notice that the green insulation layer had corroded off some of the traces on the circuit board - in particular some that led to the OOB switch, and other signs of water damage. Also there was a section of the board under the large power capacitors that looks like it has got quite hot at one stage - the board has that brownish toasted look to it. The capacitors checked out ok from my rudimentary tests (in place) with a multimeter.
I cleaned the corrosion off and resoldered a couple of joints that looked like they could use it. Maybe that's done the trick. I'll do some more loads and see how it behaves (the boss will be happy when she sees I'm actually doing the washing on my day off for once, he11 I might even hang them out too.. nahhh ;)).
Posted 26 October 2005 - 06:12 PM
Your diagnosis, herr Doctor?
Posted 26 October 2005 - 06:39 PM
Posted 26 October 2005 - 06:50 PM
Is the machine safe to use?
Posted 26 October 2005 - 07:31 PM
Posted 26 October 2005 - 09:49 PM
Posted 27 October 2005 - 12:29 AM
Posted 29 October 2005 - 08:05 PM
Posted 29 October 2005 - 09:41 PM
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