I've got a fisher and Paykel smartdrive washing machine model 051, it's been having problems spinning between the wash and rinde cycles - it gets to about half speed then gives up and goes into its OOB procedure: refilling and washing a bit and so on.
I diagnosed it (just by educated guesswork) to be a problem with the OOB gear. I found the OOB the switch, and indeed it was all corroded and my meter showed he no worky. I went down to the local electronics shop and got a generic micro switch to replace it and bunged it in (wasn't as simple as that because the mounts for the old switch had been broken, but a bit of epoxy and some little screws and it's as good as nearly new). Now it will spin but only when I advance it to final spin; in the spin cycle between wash and rinse it still seems to think it's out of balance.
I tried bypassing the switch (running a jumper across the leads) to see if it was a mechanical problem with the little lever thing, but the result was the same. That switch is normally closed isn't it? (I'm guessing it is, because trying with an open circuit resulted in the machine not starting at all).
I'm waiting for the "help me" beeps now, I'll tell you what the result of a diagnostic test is once I can.
TIA, this is a fantastic forum!
-stephen
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F&P smartdrive: OOB problem.. I think
Started by
Guest_stib_*
, Oct 24 2005 04:48 AM
14 replies to this topic
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#2
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 24 October 2005 - 05:27 AM
Oh.. don't bother. While waiting for it to get through its out of balance shimmy, one of the aforementioned jumper leads got shaken off the lid where it was resting and came in contact with the metal chassis.
Shock therapy was succesful, but unfortunately the patient died in the process.. No response once I reset the RCD on the meter board and powered it back up. Looks like I'm up for a new controller board. Can anyone help me out with the part number maybe?
Shock therapy was succesful, but unfortunately the patient died in the process.. No response once I reset the RCD on the meter board and powered it back up. Looks like I'm up for a new controller board. Can anyone help me out with the part number maybe?
#3
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 24 October 2005 - 05:31 AM
Oh yeah - what's with using mains voltage in things like an out of balance switch? Surely it would be more appropriate to use logic level voltages? I'm glad I didn't just assume it was going to be five volts through that switch..
#4
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 24 October 2005 - 05:40 AM
I mean _across_ that switch, of course.
Oh btw I just found the "read this before posting page" (I found the site by googling so dodn't see that bit first) the model# from the sticker on the back is actually MW051-U product 93915.
Oh btw I just found the "read this before posting page" (I found the site by googling so dodn't see that bit first) the model# from the sticker on the back is actually MW051-U product 93915.
#5
ethicalfix
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- Sublime Master of Appliantology
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- 154 posts
Sōhei
Posted 25 October 2005 - 10:57 PM
OK I gather by the model you are in NZ or Aussie.
First up there is only a few volts DC going through that switch hence its sensitivity to the corrosion.
You will have a blue module part number 425260. If you are in NZ they are no longer available ex F&P here but if you let me know where you are I can put you in touch with an outlet for reworked ones.
Might pay to remove the controller and open it up. At the end near the input plug you will find the fuse. Try replacing it and you may be lucky enough for it to do a Lazerus for you.
There is an upgrade kit out now for the balance switch part number 420313. from your post though it may seem you have problems apart from the switch. So try the fuse and if you get it going try the following steps to get a fault code.
With the machine off press and hold wash temp down then press power. Then press water level down to turn the low level light off. Next push power and the machine will be off but with the green wash lights flashing. Then turn the machine on and let it run through a wash. If it senses any problems it will immediately stop and start beeping. Turn the machine off. Again hold water temp down and press power. Then press spin speed up til you have spin hold and slow spin lights on. Make a note of which lights are on across the top and let us know. We can then tell you the fault and possibly a cure.
Good luck
Rod
First up there is only a few volts DC going through that switch hence its sensitivity to the corrosion.
You will have a blue module part number 425260. If you are in NZ they are no longer available ex F&P here but if you let me know where you are I can put you in touch with an outlet for reworked ones.
Might pay to remove the controller and open it up. At the end near the input plug you will find the fuse. Try replacing it and you may be lucky enough for it to do a Lazerus for you.
There is an upgrade kit out now for the balance switch part number 420313. from your post though it may seem you have problems apart from the switch. So try the fuse and if you get it going try the following steps to get a fault code.
With the machine off press and hold wash temp down then press power. Then press water level down to turn the low level light off. Next push power and the machine will be off but with the green wash lights flashing. Then turn the machine on and let it run through a wash. If it senses any problems it will immediately stop and start beeping. Turn the machine off. Again hold water temp down and press power. Then press spin speed up til you have spin hold and slow spin lights on. Make a note of which lights are on across the top and let us know. We can then tell you the fault and possibly a cure.
Good luck
Rod
Remember the simple things.
#6
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 26 October 2005 - 01:28 AM
well it certainly seemed to be more than logic level voltage, just going by the bang and the large spark, and the way it tripped the RCD on the household fusebox.
Normally earthing something at logic level voltage has no effect other than to set it to zero, but there was enough current going through it to leave a blackened patch on the paint work of the chassis. Maybe there's something more amiss with the controller...
Anyway I will investigate the internal fuse as I guess the control assembly is going to be a bit more pricey than a fuse. Thanks
Oh yeah i'm in Oz, (melbourne to be exact)
Normally earthing something at logic level voltage has no effect other than to set it to zero, but there was enough current going through it to leave a blackened patch on the paint work of the chassis. Maybe there's something more amiss with the controller...
Anyway I will investigate the internal fuse as I guess the control assembly is going to be a bit more pricey than a fuse. Thanks
Oh yeah i'm in Oz, (melbourne to be exact)
#7
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 26 October 2005 - 06:07 PM
well 35 cents from jaycar for a fuse was certainly money well spent. I tried the diagnostic mode thing, but this time, of course, it behaved itself. Maybe it just needed some shock therapy.
Regarding the switch and the spark: while it was spinning I measured 125V DC between the swicth leads and ground. It didn't have this voltage at any other time, just during the spin cycle. There was no AC voltage present. Could this be coming from the electonic braking? Is there an earthing problem maybe..?
When I changed the fuse on the controller board I pulled the circuit board out to check for dry solder joints and obviously fried components. I did notice that the green insulation layer had corroded off some of the traces on the circuit board - in particular some that led to the OOB switch, and other signs of water damage. Also there was a section of the board under the large power capacitors that looks like it has got quite hot at one stage - the board has that brownish toasted look to it. The capacitors checked out ok from my rudimentary tests (in place) with a multimeter.
I cleaned the corrosion off and resoldered a couple of joints that looked like they could use it. Maybe that's done the trick. I'll do some more loads and see how it behaves (the boss will be happy when she sees I'm actually doing the washing on my day off for once, he11 I might even hang them out too.. nahhh ;)).
Regarding the switch and the spark: while it was spinning I measured 125V DC between the swicth leads and ground. It didn't have this voltage at any other time, just during the spin cycle. There was no AC voltage present. Could this be coming from the electonic braking? Is there an earthing problem maybe..?
When I changed the fuse on the controller board I pulled the circuit board out to check for dry solder joints and obviously fried components. I did notice that the green insulation layer had corroded off some of the traces on the circuit board - in particular some that led to the OOB switch, and other signs of water damage. Also there was a section of the board under the large power capacitors that looks like it has got quite hot at one stage - the board has that brownish toasted look to it. The capacitors checked out ok from my rudimentary tests (in place) with a multimeter.
I cleaned the corrosion off and resoldered a couple of joints that looked like they could use it. Maybe that's done the trick. I'll do some more loads and see how it behaves (the boss will be happy when she sees I'm actually doing the washing on my day off for once, he11 I might even hang them out too.. nahhh ;)).
#8
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 26 October 2005 - 06:12 PM
Oh I forgot to add, the cycle completed normally (in diagnostic mode), and when I just went in to empty it I noticed that all of the green wash LEDs were flashing.
Your diagnosis, herr Doctor?
Your diagnosis, herr Doctor?
#9
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 26 October 2005 - 06:39 PM
doing another load I notice that the ~125V DC voltage is actually present all the time, even when the wash cycle is paused. I was just only measuring it while it was spinning.
#10
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 26 October 2005 - 06:50 PM
OK, I had a hunch and checked it out - turns out that everything coming out of the control panel is at -125V DC with respect to ground: the leads going to the display panel, the leads to the water valves etc. Is there something amiss with the power supply? Should I be looking at the rectifier circuit? Maybe those capacitors aint so good after all.
Is the machine safe to use?
Is the machine safe to use?
#11
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 26 October 2005 - 07:31 PM
It didn't make it through the cycle this time, stopped between wash and rinse, after doing a few attempts at spinning. When I did the diagnostic voodoo, it wouldn't let me push the spin speed up button untill I had pushed the advance button once. Then wash LEDs 3 and 4 (numbering from L to R) and the spin LED (middle of the three orange LEDs) were on. Is this any help?
#12
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 26 October 2005 - 09:49 PM
this time I tried just doing the last spin cycle, and once again it gave up after getting to half speed a few times. This time the lights are green LEDs 3 and 5 from the left and the orange spin LED and the red final spin LED on the far right
#13
ethicalfix
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- Sublime Master of Appliantology
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- 154 posts
Sōhei
Posted 27 October 2005 - 12:29 AM
Thats fault code 43 which is balance switch fault
Remember the simple things.
#14
Guest_stib_*
Guest_stib_*
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- Lurking at the Threshold
Posted 29 October 2005 - 08:05 PM
I've bypassed the switch compltely now (soldered the leads together), but it still stops mid-way through the spin cycle. So there must be more wrong than just the switch, right?
#15
ethicalfix
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- Sublime Master of Appliantology
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- 154 posts
Sōhei
Posted 29 October 2005 - 09:41 PM
if it is still coming up with FC 43 then you got a module problem . Unless you can find a dry joint in there someplace you are looking at another module.
Remember the simple things.
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