11 replies to this topic

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I'm new to this forum, so bear with me while I work through this. The machine is 6 years old. Started making jet engine noise during spin cycle. Black soot and grease underneath the machine. I replaced thrust bearing, belt. Adjusted so the cam would lift the pully ~ 1/4 inch. Noise didn't abate.

I also noticed the spin bearing was rusted. Replaced the spin bearing with a platform triple lip seal and bearing kit. Noise is gone, but brake won't disengage. Something was amiss, made a loud clicking noise at start up.

Took brake assembly apart, cleaned up stator and rotor. Re-assembled. Put everything back together. Noise gone. Machine is quiet. Brake won't disengage, thus spins slowly. Agitator works.

Now, when I rotate the drive pully CCW, the shaft rotates freely. It doesn't engage and lift the pully.

It seems as if something is either incorrectly assembled, or something broke within the tranny.

I would appreciate your insight into this issue.


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[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

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reading my assignment now.

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Before I dive into another afternoon of thrust bearing 101, I have a few assignment questions/comments .....


Transmission Operation

When the Drive Pulley rotates CLOCKWISE, the upper and lower cams are designed to nest together which allows the Drive Pulley to remain in position on the Drive Shaft. The Brake remains engaged and the Drive Pulley will turn the lower cam and drive the shaft to cause the Transmission to agitate.

{no problem here. the machine agitates. }

When the Drive Pulley rotates COUNTERCLOCKWISE, the upper cam and pulley ride up the lower cam approximately 3/16 of an inch before the driving shoulders on the Pulley hub engage the “dogs” on the lower cam.

{Problem resides here. rotating the drive pully CCW does not appear to cause the pulley to ride up the lower cam and engage the "dogs". It just rotates the drive shaft CCW without anything else being engaged. Drive pully does not elevate.
Although I haven't posted to this forum before, I confess that I have been using this forum (and the various reading material) to edcate and guide me through diagnosing and replacing the thrust bearing and the spin bearing. Tell me that all I need to do is add another spacer and all will be right with the world of mav754eww.}

This causes the top of the Pulley hub to push against the spacer which compresses the Brake Spring and lifts the Brake Rotor and lining assembly off the Brake Stator. The Brake is disengaged and the Pulley will turn the lower cam and drive shaft to cause the Transmission to spin.
{this doesn't happen}

[eeee]

I'm stummped. What is it that prevents the drive shaft from rotating counterclock wise?

[appl.tech.29501]

So are you saying that you added an additional washer and got the brakes to
release and at that point the pulley locks up and you cannot turn it CCW?
Could you post a link to a video with sound of the machine while running in the spin cycle?

I am a little confused from your previous post. You said it would spin slowly and then said the pulley would not raise to allow the tranny to spin.

If the brake is releasing but the tub is only slowly spinning then
either the motor base plate is stuck or not pivoting properly. There's
also the possibility that the tranny is bad. I have seen then cause a slow spin as
well as a super fast spin but, thats not the norm.

Are you trying the spin cycle with or without clothing?

Whats your Serial # also.....you may have a 10 year warranty on the tranny...probably not but just maybe

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No matter what I do, the brake won't release.

[appl.tech.29501]

if the brake rotor looked good

new thrust bearing kit installed

motor shifts freely on plate


If your answers are yes then my next question is...

How many washers do you have under the "C" clip?
if you have a thick and a thin washer...thats ok
if you have 2 thin washers thats ok
if you have 2 thick washers that not ok...

Theres always the chance that you left an object between the 2 tubs....rag or what not

Alot of times the slow spin complaint is an indication of a bad tranny.
If all the above items check ok the tranny is going to be bad.

If you put the unit into the spin cycle and watch the tub as it spins slowly and the agitator
is going back and forth like it washing at the same time the tranny is definitely toast.

[eeee]

Yes, to all three. The brake rotor is ok. New thrust bearing kit is installed and the motor does indeed shift freely on the plate.

I only have one thin washer under the C clip. Does one need to have a thick and a thin washer in place to properly engage the cam? As it is now, with the thrust bearing kit greased and assembled, I can still rotate the drive pully CCW with no resistance. The cam doesn't slide/rotate like it should because there is nothing there to stop the drive shaft from rotating CCW when I rotate the pully CCW.

Nothing is between the outer and inner tubs (I wish it was that simple).

I did put the unit into the spin cycle, and both the tub and agitator were moving. Based on that I, regretably, am leaning toward a bad tranny. The serial number is 12056933et. It is under the 10 y warranty. But, I don't have the original receipt, so I think I'm up a creek with this one. Not sure I want to invest another $200 at this point to repair the tranny.

Just wanted to cover all the bases to be sure I wasn't overlooking a simple fix.

Regardless, this is a GREAT forum. I learned a lot from you guys. Thanks again for your time and patience. Keep up the great work.

e

[appl.tech.29501]

yep you have a bad tranny, I agree, its not worth a tranny in my opinion unless you could find a used one super cheap or you can try calling Whirlpool and they might give you a replacement based on your serial #...worth a try

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Domo for the assist on this one, Grand Master appl.tech!

[appl.tech.29501]

Glad ta help !