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Jennaire SVE47500B Stove Problem


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17 replies to this topic

#1 Handy Lady

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 06:14 PM

A few years ago, my Jennaire SVE47500B clock had dimmed so bad, I could not see it. I replaced the clock/board. Worked great after that. Recently the touchpad went bad, so I purchased a new touchpad and replaced it being careful to put the wires in the correct places. Ever since I changed the touchpad, the oven fan stays on and the oven light stays on. The downdraft fan does not work, either. Everything else works. I have to turn the breaker off when I am not using the oven or stove. While I can use the exercise running up and down my steps, I really miss my clock and would like to fix this. I did hook the old touchpad up, thinking it was the new touchpad, but the fan and light continued with the old one, so I am guessing it is not the touchpad. I do not know where to look from here. My guess is a wire harness or some kind of relay, but I don't know where to start. Hoping you have seen this and can help. Thanks!

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 07:42 PM

May be just an unlucky coincidence or the problem was masked by a bad touchpad but you be needin' a new relay board now. Come git you one... http://www.repaircli...or-Timer/400656

#3 Handy Lady

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Posted 09 May 2011 - 11:40 AM

I will order it today. Can you please tell me where this relay is located??? I have only worked on the front of this unit, so I don't know where everything is. Thanks!

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 May 2011 - 11:47 AM

should be one of the Boards behind the Rear Cover
.

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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 May 2011 - 07:27 PM

Got a nice pictorial with explanations for this job on this page... http://fixitnow.com/...torial-odyssey/

#6 Handy Lady

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Posted 09 May 2011 - 08:20 PM

Thanks. Part has shipped, so I will let you know how it goes.

#7 Handy Lady

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 03:45 PM

So, I just got around to changing the relay board that I ordered. It is NOT the relay board. Put it all together and the fan is still running and the oven light is on, along with the downdraft fan not working. Now what??? I have put the old board back in. Still the same. Any other ideas??? What about the other smaller board on the back? Is there any wire harness that could be causing the problem? How do I go about returning the part that I didn't need?

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 10:15 AM

Something's either miswired or there's a boogared up wire harness. The lights and cooling fan are controlled only by the relay board so that means one of two things:

1. the relay board is bad; since you've installed a new one, we can rule that out, or

2. something is telling the relay board to turn these things on; in the case of the light, that's the touchpad, for the cooling fan, it's the oven sensor. Now, it's possible that the touchpad and the sensor are both bad but unlikely. Much more likely is a pinched wire harness going to the relay board. These are thin-skinned little ribbons and can get easily get pinched by a panel when putting things back together. I would check all the wire harnesses carefully, disassemble whatever panels you need to in order to inspect the full length of them. Can also check each conductor in the ribbon connectors for shorts to ground.

#9 Handy Lady

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 10:56 AM

Do you have a wiring schematic? I can make sure all is hooked up okay? I have not reason to believe it is not. Changed wire for wire.

The downdraft fan does not turn on, either. I keep wondering if I got a bad touchpad or something. Hate to buy a new one. Got this one in February and not from you, so I kind of own it.

I will take apart and see what it all looks like. Everything that is visible on the harnesses looks okay to me, but I know those harnesses have hairlike wires in them.

Can I test the ribbon going from the touchpad to the timer board? Do I need to?

Thanks for the help.

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 11:19 AM

Because you are engaged in such an epic battle and struggling valiantly with this insolent old beast, I will do more than provide you with just the schematic-- I'll give you the whole manual. Email me, samurai _AT_ appliantology.org, and I'll send it to you.

The ribbon from the touchpad to the board is exactly the ribbon you want to focus on the most. Seem like that one always gave me the most headaches. In fact, one thing to try to simply lifting touchpad out of position slightly so the ribbons are flexed a bit, secure it place, re-apply power and see what happens.

Also want to ohm out all those ribbon conductors to ground. Each and every single one of 'em. Tedious but it doesn't take that long. May need special fine probes, Radio Shack carries 'em.

#11 certified tech group 51

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 10:47 AM

Which board was changed?? relay board P/N Part number: 71002047

Part number: 71002047

 OR relay board P/N Part number: 71002035

Part number: 71002035
 ??? inquiring minds want to know... :mellow:


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 26 June 2014 - 01:14 PM.


#12 Trying to help

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 08:05 AM

On the touchpad you have a watchdog circuit that is closed 5-15 (50-100 ohms or so). When the keypad is disconnected, you will get cooling fan and light on. You probably have one that is bad out of the box, or they did not put the internal trace in. You can prove it by jumping from 5-15 on the clock with a piece of wire. If the fan and light turn off, the keypad is bad. I have had a few recently that do not have the trace. I've soldered a small piece of wire on the clock to do what the TP use to do. Sensi, give me a jingle when you have a moment!
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#13 Handy Lady

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 12:51 PM

Sensei,

Because jumping 5-15 does not make sense to me, can you show me somehow? I am guessing you want me to put a small wire from one circuit on the board behind the clock to another, but I don't want to fry anything out. Would you suggest I get another touchpad and try that? I do not think I will be able to return the touchpad that I have as I did not get it from this site.

I know enough to be dangerous. When it gets into jumping things, I am a bit frightened, but I will try.

Thanks.

#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 01:51 PM

Here's the best photo I could come up with to illustrate Sublime Master TTH's esoteric repair kata...

gallery_4_9_485143.png



#15 Handy Lady

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 01:55 PM

Awesome photo. Do you suggest I put the wire in where the ribbon goes out on the outside where the wire goes in? Don't want to damage the ribbon, although it might not be working, anyway. ;-)

#16 Trying to help

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 07:08 PM

Either way works. It is a low voltage circuit so you should be fine! I think........ all kidding aside, it is a 1 volt or so circuit.
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#17 Handy Lady

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 05:40 PM

The jumper wire worked!!! I am leaving it in there. I now have my stove and oven back!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! YOU ALL ARE AWESOME!!!

#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 05:42 PM

TTH kicks ass again!

Posted Image

Posted Image Posted Image

Nice job on the repair, Handylady! Posted Image




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