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LG WM3431HW dryer


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18 replies to this topic

#1 SusanR

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 10:08 AM

I have a used model, and when I first bought it, I had to strip it down to the shell and replace the main bearing. So I am acquainted with its assembly and repair.

It's a great machine, but the dryer has been acting up intermittently. Now it won't work at all. Before you say "lint in the condenser unit," thank you, but I have taken care of that several times (I have pets), and this last time, it was pretty clear. I cleaned out the small amount of lint remaining, but it didn't help. I have cleaned out all the usual suspects: filter, heating coil thing in the bottom, condenser unit, even the fan and heating element of the dryer.

The problem: In normal operation, the dryer takes in a bit of cold water, heats air and blows it into the tub, the heat and cold water make the water condense, and the dryer pumps out the warm water and takes in more cold stuff. Now - it does that for a few minutes, but suddenly it will start taking in a LOT of cold water and pumping out a LOT of cold water. If there was any warm water from before, it will pump that out first, then it will be all cold.

At the same time, the clothes in the tub will get wetter and wetter, but still warm (the fan and heater work fine). When it finally quits, the clothes will be pretty soggy, and there will be water in the bottom of the tub.

I have my own idea of what could be wrong, but I'd love to hear expert opinions, especially from anyone who has encountered this before. My unit is taking up the middle of my kitchen while I figure out what part(s) to order. :-)

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#2 john63

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 12:08 PM

Replace the TRIPLE WATER VALVE ASSY (AJU71030102)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 12:16 PM

Part link to the triple water assembly... http://www.repaircli...y-inlet/1526854

#4 SusanR

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 12:17 PM

Thank you for your reply. That part number doesn't go to my machine as far as I can see, but this one does - http://www.repaircli...-5220FR2075C-== or 5220FR2075C (you mean cold water inlet valve, right?). I was guessing it might be a thermostat issue, but I would love to know why you think it's the valve. The valve does work correctly for wash loads and at the beginning of dry loads. I will trust you if you've got the goods, though. Thanks much!

Susan

#5 SusanR

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 08:33 PM

Help please?

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 08:36 PM

Sorry for the delay! You are correct, mademoiselle, the correct valve is the one you linked to.

#7 SusanR

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 08:43 PM

Thanks. I was still hoping to get an answer from @john63 about why he thinks this part is the problem, given that it works fine during the wash cycle. I'm annoying in that I need technical explanations to truly understand problems before I am satisfied. But I am not allowed to PM him. :thanks:

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 08:44 PM

PMing is one of the perks reserved for Apprentices. Read more... http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

#9 SusanR

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 08:47 PM

Yep, I'm aware of that - and if I had to fix my machine more than once every nine months or so, I would definitely consider it. But I'm a broke, self-employed teacher, so I have to count my pennies for now! That's why I'm fixing my own machine too. I plan to help pay for this advice by buying my part from your site. :turned:

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 08:54 PM

Nolo problemo. John63 is usually on late at night; he may stop by this evening, I don't know. This whole forum is a free-will love cooperative that runs on a shoe string. :wub:

#11 john63

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 09:49 PM

Susan,

The COLD WATER VALVE ASSY consists of (3) valves.

The valve on the right side (if facing the front of the washer) is a *Misting* Valve that sends a cold mist into the Duct Assy behind the tub. This cold mist helps to convert *steam* from the tub (during the dry cycle) back to a condensation/liquid form.

As your're aware---this then begins to pool in the Sump Boot & Drain Pump Assy---to be periodically pumped/drained from the combo washer/dryer.

When this valve becomes faulty---too much cold water enters the Duct & Tub (wet laundry).

The original part number for this Triple Valve Assy *was* 5220FR2075C.

The new part number Is: AJU71030102

I have not been able to locate a Technical Service Bulletin relating to this change. Usually--the part has been modified/improved in some capacity.

Before ordering the replacement WATER VALVE ASSY---try disconnecting the *plug* from the water valve on the right side (leave it off).

Run 3 to 4 loads of laundry through the washer/dryer.

Try to gauge whether or not you see an improvement in the DRYING of the laundry without this *Misting* valve.

I had a customer some time back that had a *Water-On-The-Floor* complaint due to the Misting Valve failing to shut off.
Since I did not have a replacement in stock and needed to order the part---I disconnected this Misting valve (and crimped the water hose) to allow the owner use of the washer until the new valve arrived.
Upon return---she asked that the new valve be installed---but to NOT reconnect the Misting valve *plug* as the dryer was drying much better (her observation) without it.

If your findings are different---order the new WATER VALVE ASSY.

Edited by john63, 12 May 2011 - 02:44 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 SusanR

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 01:21 PM

I ran a load yesterday, and unplugging the valve you suggested did seem to "fix" the problem. The clothes came out very dry - too dry, in fact. I would rather them come out with a bit of steam like usual, because then they don't wrinkle, and the steam evaporates right away. So I am going to order the part.

Thank you so much for the help. You are much wiser than the managemylife guy. Maybe you can get a gig working for them.

#13 john63

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 02:47 PM

<<<Maybe you can get a gig working for them.>>>

*******

I am self-employed---always have been.

The idea of working for Sears makes my bones shudder;)

Good luck!
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 SusanR

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 10:54 PM

I get ya on the self-employed thing. I was thinking that maybe it could be more of a freelance answer-their-questions type gig. The guy who answered mine was pretty clueless on the specifics of this machine.

I got the new part today and installed it, and am running the first dryer load now. It is using more water than it ever did when it worked "normally" before, but less than when it was acting up. Maybe it was never working properly since I had it? Time will tell. The load will be done later, and I will be able to see if the laundry is better or worse than when it went in.

If this valve didn't fix the problem, do you have another suggestion?

#15 john63

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 12:14 AM

<<<It is using more water than it ever did when it worked "normally" before, but less than when it was acting up.>>>

*********

Are you describing the *wash* portion of the cycle?

It is difficult to see/notice the amount of water in the tub assembly--very little is used during *tumble/wash*.

**********

<<<do you have another suggestion?>>>

**********

Use only HE (High Efficiency) low-suds detergent (extremely important).

Disregard entirely the dosage instructions on the bottle/box of HE detergent--use the following amounts for your washer:

NOTE: The following dosage is ONLY for front load washers with a TUB SIZE smaller than 3.0 cubic foot...

HE: (1) Tablespoon Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Teaspoon

HE 3X: *Not Recommended*

Use TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER every (4) months (TUB CLEAN CYCLE)


Open the door of the unit.

At about the 10 oclock position of the opening---you'll notice a BLACK LINE.

This indicates how much dry laundry should be entered/loaded into the tub.

The reason for this---is to prevent too much laundry from being placed into the tub---which will adversely affect the DRYING TIME required to dry laundry (in a condensation-type dryer). NOTE: On full-sized non-condensation model LG washers--the laundry can be loaded to the very top of the tub.

The dryer DRY TIME in a *condensation dryer* varies.
Light/thin fabrics may dry within 2 to 4 hours.
Heavier fabrics require 4 to 6 hours drying time.

If the unit is in a closet or confined space---always keep the door(s)open when using the combo washer/dryer. This allows for plentiful supply of room air which helps the drying portion of the cycle.

Edited by john63, 19 May 2011 - 12:16 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#16 SusanR

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 08:13 AM

Hi John, thanks for the reply. I was speaking of the dryer. The washer has always operated flawlessly. As far as quantities, I don't worry about it much because I air-dry so many of my clothes that it always works out. The only time I set it to running a wash and dry cycle without stopping is when I'm doing my sheets.

The good news is, the dryer worked great! Again, I don't think that valve was working right since I had the machine. So I didn't actually know what "normal" was. It uses more water to dry than I expected, but the clothes come out beautifully. You hit the nail on the head!

:thanks:

Oh - and my clothes have never taken longer than three hours to dry, usually 1 to 2.5.

#17 SusanR

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 09:09 PM

Hey John, sorry to resurrect a dead thread. But the valve went again. Do you think it's a bad part, or would it be a control board issue? Do you know if parts are generally warranted? Thanks much...

Susan

#18 john63

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 11:38 PM

Verify that lint has not accumulated in the DUCT at the rear of the tub or inside the BLOWER FAN HOUSING at the top of the tub.

Remove the top cover of the washer (and the steel subplate).

Press & hold the WASH/RINSE & SPIN SPEED buttons---then...

Press the POWER button & release all 3 buttons.

Wait until the *door lock light* illuminates in the Control Panel display (a symbol of a lock)

Press the START/PAUSE button 7 times (at 1 second intervals).

This will activate the DRY MIST valve of the triple-cold-water-valve assy.

Carefully pull the plug from the cold water valve on the far right side (if standing in front of the washer).

Placing the test meter leads into the PLUG (not the water valve) should show 110V to 120Volts AC.
If so, then the MAIN BOARD is "good".

Reconnect the plug to the valve---water should be heard entering the black tubing which routes to the DUCT connection nearby. If not---the COLD WATER VALVE ASSY has failed and needs to be replaced.

***********************

<<<Do you know if parts are generally warranted?>>>

***********************

If purchased through REPAIR CLINIC---yes---for one year :)

Edited by john63, 28 October 2011 - 11:48 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#19 SusanR

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Posted 29 October 2011 - 01:41 PM

Hi again John,

The failure is that the valve is once again spraying *too much* water into the condenser. There is probably lint again in the condensing unit, but I cleaned it out a few months ago, so I didn't bother again this time. Everywhere else is clean of lint.

When I run the drying cycle, it doesn't start misting right away, but when it does spray, it sprays too long, and the pump ends up pumping out more and more water. Same symptoms as before.

I don't have a test meter, but I could get one - AFTER the snowstorm blows over! Thank you for the test sequence.

For now, I have implemented the temporary fix you suggested earlier, which was to just unplug the misting valve. The dryer performed fine without it. I really needed my sheets to be dry last night!

Thanks again.
Susan




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