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GE GSD2600D02 dishwasher giving C5 code


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13 replies to this topic

#1 KanyonKris

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 06:21 PM

I have a GE GSD2600D02 dishwasher that recently started giving me a C5 code (not enough water).

I checked the water inlet solenoid and value - they're fine.

I cleaned out the sump entrance screen - lots of gunk in there, clean now. (Should I dig down deeper in there to check for more gunk or does it flush out OK?)

I removed the self-cleaning cover/body and it was also loaded with gunk. I'm pretty sure the check valve was not shutting.

The piston which activates the self-cleaning valve moves up and down, but there is still a lot of gunk around it. I want to remove it and clean it. On the outside back of the dishwasher there is an off-white plastic box with 2 hoses connecting into it and 4 screws fastening it to the tub body. I removed the screws but it wouldn't budge. Inside the dishwasher I can feel 2 tabs around the piston - do I need to twist these to remove the box? Or should I just leave it alone? Since I have the dishwasher out and apart I'd like to inspect and clean as many serviceable components as I can.

Any other things I should check while I'm at it?

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 06:41 PM

Are you talking about this check valve in the basin sump? If it's gunked up, don't even bother trying to rehabilitate it-- just replace it. You can remove it from right there inside the dishwasher, you don't have to mess with any of the plumbing underneath.

#3 KanyonKris

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 11:51 PM

Just got it out. (Used a hammer and screwdriver to turn the tabs.)

That check valve looks like mine except the piston rod on mine sticks up about an inch above the top (to activate the flap in the self-cleaning cover).

Scraped off some crud and it seems to seal. But not worth the risk, I'll buy a new one. Do you have the check valve like mine? I searched the store but couldn't find it.

I went ahead and took off the box. It was loaded with gunk. Cleaned it out and reinstalled it.

#4 KanyonKris

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 12:18 AM

Since the check valve looked OK I put it back in to see if all my cleaning fixed the problem. Nope, still got the C5 code at the same point in the cycle. When I opened the door there was still water in the basin, about up to the bottom of the cover for the float/level switch.

With the kick cover off I noticed a loud click at the same time the C5 code appeared. Maybe the drain valve / solenoid is the problem.

Any pointers?

#5 KanyonKris

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 01:16 AM

I ran a Rinse & Hold cycle again. I watched the drain solenoid and it seemed to work fine. And the whole cycle finished with no error code.

I did notice a bit of crud in the self-clean flapper and cleaned it out before I ran the cycle.

So I tried a normal wash cycle - it stopped with a C5 code. Perhaps I just need to keep running it until it's flushed all the loose crud out.

Thoughts?

#6 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 06:46 AM

I've never ran across one of these so I'm just going by what I see in the parts diagram.

This is an electronically controlled dishwasher. There is a sensor on the side of the tub ref#914 in the diagrams which is not listed in any of the part break downs so maybe no longer available part. I believe this sensor somehow gives feedback to the electronic control module to let it know the spray arm is turning.

I don't know if the spray arm has a magnet or a piece of metal in one end, (I don't see anything that looks like it could be a magnet in the pictures of the spray arm), to activate that sensor or maybe the sensor feels the vibration of the water hitting the side of the tub, but I suspect the C5 error maybe because it thinks the spray arm isn't turning, (if you didn't have a enough water in the dishwasher it wouldn't create enough water pressure to turn the spray arm thus spray arm not turning machine thinks not enough water so gives the C5 error but it may really be a sensor or controller causing the problem).

Also, doesn't appear the special check valve with the long stem is available anymore either, shows as part ref#557 in the diagrams but not listed in the part break downs.

Don't know why the rinse&hold would work with no problem unless the sensor doesn't watch for the spray arm to move in rinse?
William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#7 KanyonKris

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 09:06 AM

More info:

Before all the screen cleaning I pulled the drain hose off the disposal and put it in a bucket and ran the dishwasher. There was water coming out the hose the whole time the pump was on. Is this right or should there be no flow out the drain hose until the drain valve opens?

I started the dishwasher and listened as it filled with water. When the fill stopped I opened the door. The water level was about 1/4" up on the level sensor cover. When the C5 code (not enough water) came up the water level is about 1/2" down from that. Is the dishwasher filling high enough? Is it normal to have the water level drop that much as it's running?

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 09:24 AM

That is an outstanding analysis, Willie! I am truly impressed!

After much weeping and gnashing of teeth, I was finally able to find something on the C5 error in this ancient-of-days electronic monstrosity and it's pretty close to what Sublime Master Willie's well-reasoned conjectures...

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#9 KanyonKris

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 02:50 PM

Willie - I'll check out that sensor. BTW, are those diagrams on the web somewhere?

Samurai - Thanks for that info about the C5 error code. Here's my take on the possible causes:

1) Water supply is good.
2) Could be a false signal, I'd have to check each senor.
3) Water valve works and the filter is clean.
4) No leaks.
5) I cleaned the inlet screen and the dishwasher made one complete rinse & hold cycle so I think the pump is working OK.
6) This is my top suspect. I'm getting water out the drain hose when it's washing, then when the drain valve opens it's a high flow. If I have to replace the motor/pump as the GE documentation suggest I might as well put that money into a new or late model dishwasher. Can I get to the drain valve and hope to see why it's leaking? Can it be repaired cheaply?
7) It might be pumping out in less than 10 seconds, but I don't think so.
8) I don't use the china crystal mode.

Thoughts, comments?

#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 04:00 PM

... sensor on the (right) side of the tub ref#914 in the diagrams which is not listed in any of the part break downs so maybe no longer available part.


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#11 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 06:49 AM

That's the picture.

Samurai, from reading the tech sheet you supplied it doesn't sound like my conjecture was correct at all, maybe good reasoning considering never seen or worked on one of these but wrong non the less.

I would say the problem is the water draining out while it's washing, that shouldn't happen and that is why the drain is shorter then 10 seconds and is giving the C5 error.

You may think the drain is longer then 10 seconds because the motor will be running each drain cycle for the full 1 to 2 minutes the drain cycle requires but there is a micro-switch on the drain flap solenoid which lets the controller know how long the drain flap was open, so actually pushing water out not just running empty of water, (Now I know what that micro-switch is for also if I should ever run into one of these. I had no idea what it was for when I was looking at the parts break down and was actually wondering what it's purpose was.).

Does your dishwasher drain down thru the floor or does it go up to an air-gap on the back of the sink or at least have a high drain loop in the drain line before it drains into the garbage disposal or sink tail pipe?

Make sure the spring is in place and not stretched out so the drain flapper is held in the solid closed position when in wash. If the flapper seal has been somehow damaged inside the pump body your would have to replace the complete pump/motor assembly and it might be a good idea to go shopping for a new one. Lots of specialized parts for your particular model are no longer available.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 15 May 2011 - 06:52 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#12 KanyonKris

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 11:13 PM

Budget Appliance Repair - Thank you for the helpful reply.

Your description of what may be happening with the drain, flap and switch make sense to me and are likely the problem.

I do not have an air-gap, the drain hose runs connects directly into the garbage disposal. Early on I checked the hose and disposal, cleaned out some gunk, still got the C5 code.

I know the spring you're talking about and I will check it.

Since the dishwasher is dead anyway, I might as well tear into the pump if it's not something simple like the spring or microswitch. Maybe I'll be lucky and it will just be some crud blocking the drain valve. If it's the valve seal I may try to get a replacement, but if parts are going to run over $50 I think I'd be better off putting that money into newer dishwasher. I have a line on a 2005 Maytag Quiet Partner III that from what I can tell is a reliable machine, any comments?

Thanks again to each of you for your suggestions!

I'll report back what I find as I dig into the dishwasher again.

#13 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 05:57 AM

If the Maytag is what I suspect it to be, (one of the MDB series), they seem to really have some flaky membrane keypads that fail at a pretty high rate.

You might get lucky and find a toothpick or other object stuck in the drain outlet port on your GE causing the drain flapper to not be able to close all the way.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 16 May 2011 - 05:58 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#14 KanyonKris

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 09:51 PM

The problem was the drain valve not closing completely.

When I pulled the actuator arm down and released it, it stopped about 1/4" from fully closed. The spring seems OK. There is something causing increased friction in that last 1/4". I guess I could tighten the spring until it forces it closed, but I'm concerned the solenoid will burn out or may not be able to open the flapper all the way.

Near the drain valve is a reservoir I can remove and hopefully see what's gumming up the flapper.

If I can fix it I'll sell it, otherwise I'll scrap it - unless there are other options.

I got a good deal on a used Kenmore 665.13842K601 so I went for it. Who knows how long the old GE would last.

Thanks again for all the good advice and help. Hopefully this case will help others.






Recent blog entries on this topic

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GE GSD2600D02 dishwasher giving C5 error code

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 14 May 2011 - 09:25 AM

That is an outstanding analysis, Willie! I am truly impressed!

After much weeping and gnashing of teeth, I was finally able to find something on the C5 error in this ancient-of-days electronic monstrosity and it's pretty close to what Sublime Master Willie's well-reasoned...

Read Full Entry →

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