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Kenmore Electric Range Model # 790.9622340C


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7 replies to this topic

#1 Baphomet777

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 11:01 PM

Kenmore Electric Range with ES 330/335/345 Electronic Oven Controls

Model # 790.9622340C

Purchased this glass-top unit second-hand from my brother after my old Vintage P7 died on me. It's only a few years old and sat for about 6 months unused in his garage after being moved to a new home. The only problem that he or I knew of was a boil-over on the rear side that coated the oven light element and some of the surrounding sheet metal with a thick condensed oil or grease which caused it to smoke when the rear element or oven light were engaged. After replacing the element and cleaning up the residue, I put the unit back together and fired it up and discovered that the front right "dual" range top element is staying powered on (seems like a low setting, but still hot enough to not want to touch) and the LED indicator for that element is remaining lit when dialed to "OFF". After checking all the other elements, I discovered, too, that none of the LEDs for the remaining elements light up when powering them, save the Warmer element. There is a secondary "element in use" indicator that DOES come on when ANY of them are powered, but the individual ones above the dials do not, except for the two mentioned. Additionally, none of the other elements appear to have the same problem -- they all turn off when they should and get cooler with time when powered off, as opposed to the front right dual element mentioned previously, staying on and hot to the touch all the time...

I've already heard, and read, a few of the fire-hazard horror stories about these units... I've only seen one recall, so far, for a similar unit and unfortunately mine doesn't meet the recall specs.

Any thoughts on where I should begin or what the cause(s) may be? I've been out of a range for a few weeks now and the wife's nails are getting sharper by the day...
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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 11:16 PM

... Kenmore Electric Range ... Model # 790.9622340C
... the front right "dual" range top element is staying powered on (seems like a low setting, ... and the LED indicator for that element is remaining lit when dialed to "OFF"
... none of the LEDs for the remaining elements light up when powering them, save the Warmer element.
... There is a secondary "element in use" indicator that DOES come on when ANY of them are powered, but the individual ones above the dials do not, .

1) made by Frigidaire
2) sounds like a bad Burner Switch
3)
4)
may have mice chew the wiring, and / or other "critters" in the Controller ...
Wiring Diagram 316441483.pdf
link PM'd
.

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#3 Baphomet777

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 12:48 AM

I've inspected the wiring from the back of the unit and it all looks pretty new... I've looked for breaks/cuts in the wiring and wiring insulation and the only thing I noticed was the usual tape/glue residue.

The only place I didn't inspect the wiring was under the cooktop... I'll recheck that and contact the local shop here and price/replace the switch and report back with my results. Thanks!
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#4 Baphomet777

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 11:41 AM

Swapped out the dual element burner switch, to no avail. The problem persists and I'm out $87+ on a non-returnable part... <sigh>
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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 11:45 AM

... I'm out $87+ on a non-returnable part... <sigh>




Why aren't you buying the parts here? Return any part for any reason, even electrical and special order parts that were already installed, also one year guarantee. And your purchase through this site is what keeps the lights on here.



#6 Baphomet777

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 12:45 PM

DOH! I didn't know about parts purchases through the Samurai... expensive lesson, urgh!

One'a the techs that was on-site that I was speaking with suggested an 80% chance that it was the relay board (simmer-select board since the unit apparently doesn't come with the cooktop lockout pcb, according to the parts rep) but since the relay boards are typically expensive, suggested that I start with the switch since it was a good bet it was one or the other. I didn't write down the model # to take with me and took it for granted they'd have it since they looked it up and held the part for me... Having said that, I called them back after swapping and discovering the swap didn't work to check status of the relay board and get the price -- go figure, it's 1/3 the price of the switch...

I've checked most of the connections, double checked the ones that I disconnected to clean the firewall due to the boil-over residue and oven light bulb/fixture replacement, and everything looks clean and connected the way that it should be. I've checked under the cooktop and all the wires appear to be connected and nothing seems out of the ordinary under there -- Are there any other "potential" points of failure that I should take into consideration? Am I safe to purchase the simmer-select board knowing, now, that the switch is good? Is the simmer-select board the only other potential point of failure, or can the oven-control board cause this kind of problem?
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#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 01:52 PM

Swapped out the dual element burner switch, to no avail. The problem persists and I'm out $87+ on a non-returnable part... <sigh>

(the Dual-Element Burner doesn't use the Simmer Select Board)
With the Dual Burner Switch "OFF" there shouldn't be any voltage from neither L1 nor L2 side... no way the Burner could be ON
Sounds like the Range is mis-wired.
compare to wiring diagram switch connections
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#8 Baphomet777

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 02:21 PM

Having never been familiarized with some of the finer operational details prior to owning this unit, or anything newer than the 70's (like I stated in the beginning, my last stove was vintage), I can honestly state that this is just another case of user ignorance.

Each dial, having it's own indicator LED, I assumed that each would operate in much the same way as the warmer plate in that when dialed in ANY direction other than off, the indicator LED would light up without hesitation. Upon "playing" with the unit further, I discovered that all of the "other" dials, with the exception of the Warmer element act as warning lights and only serve to indicate that the burner is HOT, even well after having been turned off. What threw me was the fact that each has a delay before lighting, unlike the Warmer element's LED indicator which turns on without hesitation when dialed to an ON position and the fact that it remained ON after being turned off whereas the Warmer element does not... These LEDs only turn on after reaching a critical temperature and shut off when they have cooled down enough to not warrant a severe burn.

So I guess it's safe to say that I have walked away from this experience a much more educated man, in several different areas, the most critical of which being that I should be buying all my parts from you guys -- Had I done so, I wouldn't be out $87 unnecessarily.

Thanks RP!
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