17 replies to this topic

[timstaines]

I've got a similar issue to others I found on this forum, but my fan motor is running fine. We recently had a power outage that resulted in the neutral power wire becoming disconnected at the pole. This resulted in highly variable voltage throughout the house's electrical system for a few hours before I figured out what the issue was -- no internet access at the time due to the power issue, amazing how important the web is to daily life these days. Anyway, I was getting readings between 90 and 155 volts at different points in the system and I'm sure that caused this issue, but I have no idea how to figure out what's fried in the fridge. I'm leaning towards compressor, since the fan is fine. We have a Home Warranty, and I'm wondering if this is likely to be a $100+ part/fix by me, because if that's the case I just call the warranty company. Also, the Freezer is fine, holding at 0 degrees.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Great photos, good illumination, very clear. Nice job!

Have you measured the current power supply at the refrigerator outlet to make sure you're getting 120vac (nominal)?

Is the compressor running? You can ohm between each pair of the three terminals on the compressor. Each pair should have low ohms; resistance from each post to ground should be infinite. Read more here.

This video shows how to use a meter to make simple measurements like resistance. It's illustrating it for a bake element but the principle is the same as what you'll be doing on the compressor.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... I'm leaning towards compressor, since the fan is fine.
... the Freezer is fine, holding at 0 degrees.

The electric utility company usually pays for repairs
there is only one Compressor
which Fan is running fine ? ... the Freezer Fan ? (could be bad)
and / or
the Damper Motor
/and or
the Controller

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1515036

 

[timstaines]

@Samurai Appliance Repair Man Thanks for the quick help! I've got good 120 at the outlet. Ohms were 8, 4, and 5.
@RegUS_PatOff The Fan showing in that picture is the one running fine . . . haven't pulled enough pieces out to come across another yet.

Let me know if/when we've compiled enough info for this to be more than a $100 fix. Obviously that control board is over the threshold, if that's the issue. Thanks again guys!

[timstaines]

Oh, and I did hear the compressor running before I cut power . . . sounded normal to me.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Let me know if/when we've compiled enough info for this to be more than a $100 fix.

... let me know if the Evaporator (Freezer) Fan is running
and / or if the Fridge Damper Motor is opening the Damper.

[timstaines]

Is this the Evaporator (Freezer) Fan? If it is, then yes it's running. If not, where should I be looking for it? Going to check on Damper and Damper Motor . . .

[RegUS_PatOff]

in the FREEZER
by the Evaporator Coils, behind the Evaporator Cover, in the FREEZER

[timstaines]

OK thanks!
Freezer Evaporator Fan is NOT running. Do I have the Damper in the second picture? If so, is there a way to prompt the damper to open/close? I'm not seeing any action.


Thanks for your help!

[RegUS_PatOff]

from the 16026365.pdf Tech Sheet:
Service Test Mode:
The service test functions are performed using the refrigerator display and keypad.
Enter the Service Test Mode by performing the following sequence of events.
1. Open the Fresh Food door and press and hold the Door Alarm keypad.
2. Press and hold Refrigerator Temperature UP keypad .
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. Press the Refrigerator UP Keypad again.
5. Display will show 001 in left display and numeric or dashes in right display.
6. Press Freezer Up keypad and Freezer Down keypad to toggle through Service Test numbers.

Service Test – 112 Freezer Fan
• Press the Refrigerator Up keypad and Refrigerator Down keypad to toggle Freezer Fan On and Off.
NOTE: Display will show state OFF or DC voltage.

Service Test – 121 Damper Operation
• Press the Refrigerator Up keypad and Down keypad to toggle Damper (OP) open and (CL) closed.
NOTE: If damper is opening or closing it will not allow you to toggle damper and beep. Display will show state –CL or –OP if Damper is in the process of closing or opening.

[timstaines]

Damper's working, freezer fan is not. Freezer fan test shows 13.1 for DC Voltage. Replace Freezer Fan motor? Where did you find that testing document?

[timstaines]

Found it for less on the parts search box on this site: http://www.repaircli...mber=MFD2561HES

[RegUS_PatOff]

... freezer fan is not. Freezer fan test shows 13.1 for DC Voltage. Replace Freezer Fan motor?

upon further inspection, it looks like your model has the optional 115v AC Freezer Fan,
not the DC Fan that the service test does.
You'd have to test to see whether the Fan is actually getting voltage.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

More great photos!

If that evaporator fan IS getting voltage but not running, you need to replace it.

http://www.repaircli...mber=MFD2561HES

 

Click it to git it. One year warranty on that part.

[timstaines]

Would the bad motor be causing the icemaker not to function too?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Possibly. The icemaker has to feel a temperature below 15F. Without that fan running, the cold air won't be distributed properly in the compartment.

At any rate, have to fix obvious problems first, in accordance with The Prophecy.

[timstaines]

@Samurai Appliance Repair Man - do you want a picture of the display and keypad for your blog post?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

That'd be muy bien awesissomo! Domo!