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Kenmore S/S refrigerator 596.50699000


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17 replies to this topic

#1 die-hard fixer

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 06:38 PM

after a few years of benefitting from the incredible wealth of info here, I find myself stumped on a problem resulting in a warm refrigerator/freezer. Compounding the problem is the oh-so-adorable love of my life who is having some out-patient surgery and will be home for a week. The prospect of not having a refrigerator during this stressful event has already prompted one trip to the local appliance showroom - ouch - while exibiting great interest in delivery timeframes. I've done some good repairs and shared this website with many friends. I will not be foiled on this attempt - I hope!

Ok- the problem showed up as a puddle on the floor in front of the freezer. After shuttling all food items worth keeping to garage fridge -

Interior lights worked, not sure about evap fan. May have been running as it was sort of cool inside.

Checked back of unit and found condenser fan running

notable noises - click, then humm for about 10 sec then shut off with a click

PTC relay - removed it and overload protector - shook relay and no sound, checked across connectors 2 and 3 on relay and found about 5.7 ohms (ok- i split the relay open and found the disc attached and in good shape - i couldn't resist). Also checked for voltage at pin 2 of PTC (black wire from fan motor ) found 0 volts to ground.

compressor - checked pins on compressor and found all in order - none grounded to case and the resistance was 2.8/4.5/7.3 between pins

Condenser fan motor - checked across 2 wires to 110v condensor fan and found no continuity thru motor - should I expect to see some resistance here?
Looking at the schematic on the back of the fridge, it appears that one wire from the fan motor connects to the overload protector and the other connects to the PTC relay.

Does this provide power to pin 2 of the start relay? Fan would run - odd. Could it be that the fan picks up its voltage from the overload protector then to ground thru the motor - thus the fan runs, while the second black fan wire that goes to the PTC is somehow damaged inside the motor and preventing current from getting to the PTC?

Is this a condenser fan motor wiring problem or something (else) that I have missed?

OK - all of the knowledge I gained above has come from dutiful reading of the posts from the other warriors on this site - I believe I am now worthy of throwing myself on the sword of appliantology and asking for a saying of the sooth with these humble words......HELP!

Thank you

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 06:47 PM

Your topic description says compressor click-hum. You need a new start relay...  http://www.repaircli...er=596.50699000

 

00741569.jpg

Click it to git it. One year warranty on that part.



#3 die-hard fixer

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 07:55 PM

after all the shakin and ratling and ohming and cussing! Honorable and fermented one, I thought a bad relay would rattle and not have resistance across it so I had gone past that. With the relay unplugged from the compressor but wiring connected and fan running I have no voltage at the #2 terminal on the PTC relay that connects from the fan to the compressor run side. Is that even possible or have I overlooked reality?

humbed adn confused!

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 08:54 PM

... I have no voltage at the #2 terminal on the PTC relay that connects from the fan to the compressor run side.
Is that even possible or have I overlooked reality?

that is connected directly to (W) Neutral. :whistling:
.

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#5 die-hard fixer

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 09:11 PM

Yes - I think I see the error of my ways. So even if the PTC doesn't rattle and is intact on the inside of the case - it is defective? Just when I thought I was getting good at this!

The opportunity to learn is afoot - The question about the fan: should it show resitance across the two wires?

Thank you

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 09:21 PM

... the fan: should it show resitance across the two wires?

about 220 OHMs
but you said it was running ... then it should be OK ...
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#7 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 09:23 PM

The fan motor should have some resistance, but dont worry about it..if its running then its working. They style of
overload/ relay that you have doesnt usually rattle when bad.

The ones that rattle look like these


Posted Image


Posted Image
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#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 10:14 PM

Them's some mighty fine pics, appl.tech! :dude:

#9 die-hard fixer

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 10:58 PM

my relay is the bottom picture, so should not rattle?
I agree - nice pictures! You should do fruit also!

Good point on the fan - Dooh!

Will replace relay and advise



#10 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 06:22 AM

Really don't think it's a bad relay, he already took it apart and the ptc disk wasn't blown to pieces and he said there is 5.7 ohms across the compressor connections in the relay, (right around 6 ohms is what a cold ptc disk will read).

Model 596. = Amana, have been known for some bad compressors in certain model years of Amana.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#11 die-hard fixer

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 02:10 PM

compressor has good resistances for all pins.

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 02:18 PM

Try the relay. If it doesn't fix it because the compressor turns out to be bad, return it for a refund. It's a no-brainer.

#13 die-hard fixer

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 02:51 PM

my fix deadline is tonight or I will have to succumb to purchase new refrig to prepare for delivery and food resupply by wed night - prior to wife's surgery thurs am. No pressure, huh? Geez!

#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 03:16 PM

Explain to your better half that she is imposing an artificial and arbitrary deadline that is unnecessarily thwarting a a risk-free repair avenue.

#15 die-hard fixer

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 06:01 PM

Buddess very insistent, no artificial! I went local and purchased relay/overload protector - same click, hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Is it possible that compressor is bad even though it ohms out within expectations? I am one tired papasan...



#16 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 06:14 PM

Absolutely, as described in a previous post these amana made units are know for developing stuck compressors.
your only hope for a temporary fix would be to install a hard start . If it does start up you still need to be shopping
as this is only prolonging the enevitable.
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#17 die-hard fixer

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 09:20 PM

repair avenue closed - Buddess playing Samsung-song all the way to bank...compressor pronounced DOA after new PTC/OL
Thanks to all for help. Very honorable, very appreciated!

DHF



#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 09:54 PM

http://appliantology...-2380-now-1200/
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