General Failectric Bottom Mount Fridge GBSC0HBXWW
Posted 08 June 2011 - 12:13 AM
I received a call from them telling me that the fridge was D.O.A, after asking them some basic troubleshooting questions I told them I'd refund their money and haul it back to the store.
Upon getting it back to the store I had it hauled to my department for a post mortem.
Slipped on my gloves and rolled out my toolbox preparing for the worst. I plugged it in and made a list of things that were currently working.
When given power fridge waits 30 seconds before showing any signs of life.
Start relay/overload on compressor clicked, waited, clicked again and so on. Compressor eventually made its noisy debut and started, vibrating and getting nice n' warm.
Evap fan ran. Both interior lights lit. Both lights turned off when switches were messed with.
Condensor fan running.
Given the clicks I called my lovely rep and had her send me some parts (Repair is not one of the services we offer but my sales rep knows I hate to see an appliance hit the graveyard/get sent home to its maker)
Replaced the run capacitor and start relay/overload. Compressor starts without clicks.
Hissing in the evaporator area and gurgling can be heard.
Opened the control console in the beer compartment and inspected for any signs of trouble on the small little PCB that I guess acts as a motherboard on this unit. None found. There be a thermistor mounted in this console between a vent from the freezer and between the lightbulb. It looks to be the good kind (flat)
Opened the evap access panel and nothing seems amiss down there at all.
Called up a tech I used to work alongside (Me selling for another place, him fixing for them) we started the fridge again and he felt the compressor come on and a line coming from the side getting nice and warm which seems to indicate things are normal?
It's not an expensive fridge by any means but when something comes dead from the factory I like to know why. Had a Hotpoint (GE again) washer go out to a customer that had some sort of sheet-metal guard on the bottom of the tub that was bent in such a way that the motor could not spin the assembly without the bolts atop the gearcase (I assume? I never opened the damn thing, couldnt get the hub nut off.. ) hitting it stopping it from moving.
I got a really rockin' toolbox and access to some purdy nice multimeters n' such. Where should I start checking to find the root of the problem with this fridge?
Oh, also, that PCB uptop had some sort of crazy insulating cardboard box around it. Inside was some metal I assume to act as insulation. I noticed the metal had some scratches 'n tiny dents inside from where the solder on the PCB was making contact. Probably shorted things out pretty good. Put a multimeter to the metal, sure enough its conductive.. seems like a chunk o' rubber coulda stopped that.
Danke in advance for reading all this jibber-jabber.
Lord G.E. Appliances are a pain in my behind,.
Posted 08 June 2011 - 12:55 AM
Things still not giving any cold air. Left it plugged in for two hours and the temperature didn't so much as budge.
Something about this fridge bothers me. The control console up top.. the "Freezer Temperature" knob twists a rod that opens up a damper in the top of the fridge. This damper covers a vent that leads down into the freezer on the bottom of the unit. The fridge temperature knob is the one connected to the PCB and is the only knob actually
capable of turning the machine on or off. Does that seem backwards to anyone else? And it's not as if this is a system that can be installed backwards at the factory. The molded plastic cover for the control console has clips for that rod to open the damper only on the side its already on. The faceplate itself is one piece so the words "Freezer Temp and Fridge Temp" couldnt have been installed backwards either.
But yeah back to the whole gist of this here pineapple. Still no cold.
Posted 08 June 2011 - 01:37 AM
some brands / models operate that way...
... The fridge temperature knob is the one connected to the PCB
and is the only knob actually capable of turning the machine on or off.
theory... control a precise Fridge temperature ,. . . Freezer control of temperature is not that important
Is the Compressor running ?
May need to have a look at the frost pattern of the Freezer Evaporator Coil and maybe post a picture somewhere.
Need parts? Call our Parts Department now! 877-803-7957
Posted 08 June 2011 - 02:00 AM
One thing I've noticed is that the compressor sounds like a compressor when it first starts but gradually gets quieter and quieter as it runs.
Theres a tube running off the side of the compressor opposite of the run capacitor/relay assembly. It's right by the filter/dryer. It gets pretty warm when the compressor starts but eventually cools down.
No frost build-up at all on the evap coils. I can hear music in the evap coils when the system gets running but they just refuse to get cold.
Out/low of r143a right from the factory? Blocked line somewhere? Customer might have transported it on its side and then decided to plug it in as soon as they got home, never get them to fess up to that though.
I'm not out anything by returning the fridge to Mabe. Just would like to know what the issue is so I can associate a known problem with a model line in the ol' coconut for future reference.
The issue is more than likely No/low r143a I assume.
Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:41 AM
Posted 09 June 2011 - 07:47 PM
Called up one of the older techs I know and had him pop by so he could bask in the complete and utter disgrace that was this fridge.
After we did some melon-scratching, hum-hawing, poking, prodding and jawing we decided to apply Occams Chainsaw and concluded that more than
likely it was a sealed system issue and not worth our time trying to repair.
Before putting the fridge in its body bag (Black shrinkwrap and strapped to a pallet) I tested the prongs on the compressor. Everything checked out fine.
I've been ankle deep in many a fridges guts. Never before have I ripped one apart that I can only call an "Abortion of Engineering". You can almost smell
the cost-cutting measures taken here. Do the higher-ups at Mabe not see how giving their accounting department the last say on the fridges design is bad for them in the long run?
Sure, better margins now but in the long haul whats it going to get you? A customer base that will swear up and down they'll never buy a G.E. product ever again, sales people who are reluctant to recommend
the appliances in the first place and service techs who bleed to death trying to get the defrost elements out of these bastards. (I wish I was kidding, the defrost element underneath the evap is covered in these razor
sharp metal fins that protrude off the evap coils, cut myself a few times trying to check the damn thing)
Used to be the only thing I could recommend to a customer worth buying from G.E. was some of their ranges. Got some new Profile models in that make me weep. Also, who at G.E. thought it would be a good idea to put
plastic knobs on the front of a gas stove with such a high BTU output broiler? Things delaminate in a jiffy and of course Mabe is quick to call it a cosmetic defect.
Don't even get me started on their front load washing machines. Still no signs of direct-drive in the future. Still the same shoddy 2 solenoid valve + STUPID PLASTIC VALVE ON A FRAGILE PLASTIC ARM assembly.
Now LG. Oh my yes, does LG ever know how to build a washing machine. An access panel for the motor? Yes please. No need for torx? Yes please. Being able to take the ENTIRE MACHINE APART WITH A PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWDRIVER
AND A PAIR OF CHANNEL LOCK PLIERS!? Yes, yes please.
Don't even get me started on Frigidaire.. oh Frigidaire.. how I don't miss selling you.
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