15 replies to this topic

[pigbear]

Greetings Most Knowing Appliantologist,
I have a GE washer wsxh208v1ww which will agitate, pump (and drain), but does not spin. I found the service manual request here: http://appliantology...er-wsxh208v1ww/ with a link to the generic manual. However, the generic manual "Service Manual Tumble Action Washers" shows a schematic and troubleshooting flowchart for a 10 pin/6 pin speed controller interface. My washer (wsxh208v1ww) has a 9 pin/4 pin interface on the speed control unit. What is the proper troubleshooting sequence for this washer for agitates, pumps, but does not spin?
Thanks!
Steven

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Tech sheet supplied with the appliance always trumps the service manual. Remove the bottom front panel on your washer and retrieve yours.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... GE wsxh208v1ww has a 9 pin/4 pin interface on the speed control unit.

aahhh.. GE wsxh208v1ww ... made by Frigidaire (the early) Gallery series
similar to the WSXH208T GE service manual 31-9005 (PM'd to Original Poster as mentioned in posted link)
and Frigidaire early Gallery tech sheets

For manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

[pigbear]

Yes--I have removed the tech sheet. I'm still trying to determine if the speed control, timer, or ??? is the problem. I may end becoming an apprentice! Any other suggestions in the meantime?
Thanks,
Steve

[RegUS_PatOff]

Does the Door lock ?
Does the Door really lock ?
While it's in the Spin Cycle and the Door is locked,
un-plug the Washer from the Wall Outlet.
Can you then immediately open the Door ?
OR only after a few minutes ?

[pigbear]

While it's in the Spin Cycle and the Door is locked,
un-plug the Washer from the Wall Outlet.
Can you then immediately open the Door ?
OR only after a few minutes ?

Can I immediately open the door? No.
OR only after a few minutes? Yes.

The door won't open immediately. It takes a little while even though the light is off due to the power being removed. I assume that means the switch is good?

I'm now a Basic Apprentice, although with the number of appliances that need repair at home here, I probably should have gone for the lifetime. (Didn't it used to be $40?) I'll request the manual in the other forum. Any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Steven

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Door latch is good. The door latches on these old ones didn't go bad nearly as often as on the newer models.

There's a troubleshooting procedure in the tech sheet to determine if the problem is the timer, the speed control board, or the motor. It's poorly written and confusing to follow. HINT: the problem is usually the speed control board. DOUBLE EXTRA SPECIAL HINT: Buy the board here and return it for a refund if it doesn't fix it.

http://www.repaircli...ber=WSXH208V1WW

 

 

 

[RegUS_PatOff]

GE Motor Controller (made by Frigidaire) $ 292
Frigidaire Motor Controller $ 92
you do the math (may need a few beers, and maybe some for your friends)
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=823078

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Wow! Good find, Reg!

[pigbear]

Yes, it is the speed controller board. This was determined with some effort as the tech sheet has the 9-pin plug numbering reversed. And that price is unbelievable! Do you know what is the difference (if any) between the 131725300 and 131789600 boards?
Thanks,
Steven

Edited by pigbear, 16 June 2011 - 09:46 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... tech sheet has the 9-pin plug numbering reversed. And that price is unbelievable!
... Do you know what is the difference (if any) between the 131725300 and 131789600 boards?

1) I haven't looked, but they may be looking into the harness plug, or maybe into the Motor connection
2) $ 200

[pigbear]

OK, I'm in trouble. It's not the controller board. I reached my conclusion from page 51, Drive motor tumbles but does not spin. If between pin 5 to pins 6 & 9 reads 120 VAC and between pin 5 to pins 1, 2, & 10 read less than 50 VAC-> Defective speed control board. I replaced the speed control board and still no joy. So my speed control board is good, I believe the timer is good based on page 51. That means it must be something else. Stator winding (tapped field) is a little high at .85 ohms (but I may be reaching the limits of my meter), stator winding (full field) is 1.4 ohms (almost within spec), tachogenerator is good at 136.6 ohms, and thermal protector is good at .8 ohms. My armature (rotor) winding is definitely bad--it reads open circuit when it should be less than 5 ohms. Is that right? How could the motor even turn at all? It washes and tumbles fine, just no spin.
Thanks,
Steve

IF it is the motor, can anyone confirm that 131276200 is a replacement for WH02X10022?

Edited by pigbear, 22 June 2011 - 11:49 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Motor wouldn't run with a bad armature (rotor) winding
May need to do some more tests

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=277273

 

still seems to be a bad Door Switch Assembly
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=832696

 

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

A little peek at the delights that await you on this job: http://fixitnow.com/...ashing-machine/

[pigbear]

oh Great Samurai and Mr Patent Office,
I should have never doubted your wisdom. It was indeed the door switch, the older style door switch. The new switch has been installed and tested and we now have spin! The wiring harness still needs to be dressed and the machine buttoned up, but the electrical is fine. Peace is about to be restored to the family.
Domo arigoto,
Steve

Edited by pigbear, 28 June 2011 - 01:09 AM.