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Maytag LSE7806ACE stacking washer/dryer


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5 replies to this topic

#1 miz candy

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 01:27 PM

Seemingly the same problem as this thread(for some reason I cannot reply to that thread, so I am starting a new one here).


Anyways, looks like I need this lid switch assembly
http://www.repaircli...Assembly/400492


Can someone help walk me through the repair? Am a beginner w/this. What tools do I need?

Thank you!

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#2 miz candy

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 01:39 PM

I'm new to this posting stuff, but my washer has the same problem as this older post.
http://appliantology...h__1#entry53296

I've had Sears charge me $140 for a service call to tell me that it was something to do with the timer and fill switch, and that it'd cost and additional $265 to fix it. They also said they noticed that the tub showed signs of leaking and that I probably should not fix it. But I like this unit because it fits my space well and I've never seen signs of leaking. Also, the new models are weird looking and the dryer doors hinge the wrong way for me.

So, can you help tell me how to fix it? First, how do I get the front panel off?

Thanks!



Seemingly the same problem as this thread(for some reason I cannot reply to that thread, so I am starting a new one here).


Anyways, looks like I need this lid switch assembly
http://www.repaircli...Assembly/400492


Can someone help walk me through the repair? Am a beginner w/this. What tools do I need?

Thank you!



#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 04:20 PM

There's (2) Switches inside the Lid Switch Assembly.
When one or the other Switch, or the timing between the two, go partially bad,
for safety, it's designed to do just that. . . blow the Fuse, then no water, but will Spin

You could replace both Switches and the Fuse, OR the entire Lid Switch Assembly assembly

http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=1800

 

00875878.jpg

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=436283

 

00576340.jpg


The Lid Switch Assembly has been redesigned.
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=400492

 

00892990.jpg


.

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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 07:00 PM

Front panel comes off with two (maybe three) screws at the very bottom-- cheek to the floor, you'll see 'em. Panel swings out from the bottom and off. from there, you have full access to the lid switch assembly.

Save yourself some aggravation in the future-- go with the re-designed switch.

#5 miz candy

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 12:43 AM

I figured out how to get the front panel off before I got your post. I was eager to see if the fuse was the problem and it was!!!!!!! I've already ordered the switch assembly. Will there be a way for me to understand how to install it? I'm so happy that I didn't give up on this machine! Now to do battle with Sears over the $140 for the wrong diagnosis. I'm so glad I didn't authorize the extra $265 for a repair that wouldn't have worked.

Thank you!!!!!
candy

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:34 AM

The installation is a cake-walk. Use your digital camera and take several pictures before you start in case you need to refer back to them. Get a shot from the tub opening showing how it's mounted and shots inside showing mounting and wiring. Post your photos here for extra credit!




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