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How to center belt on driver pulley


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17 replies to this topic

#1 wuz73

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 03:42 PM

My Neptune washer is making a big noise when it spins. After opening the rear panel, I noticed that the driver belt is not centered on the big pulley. Instead, it's positioned towards the tub. I tried to align the belt to the center, but after turning the pulley, the belt gradually moved back towards the tub. I also tried to move the belt on the motor shaft end outward (away from motor), but it didn't help even at the outermost position. I also tried a new belt but same thing happened. So how can I center the belt on the driver pulley? Thanks a lot!

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#2 Mad Mac

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 08:16 PM

There used to be a diagram with the belt showing correct positioning on both pulleys - was there one in the package?
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#3 wuz73

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 09:36 PM

There's no diagram in the package, but I do have the service manual for this Neptune model. However, it doesn't mention anything on how to center the belt. It only says "move belt to appropriate notch in motor pulley to align with center of driven pulley".

#4 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 12:55 AM

Grab hold of the spin basket from front door opening and try to move spin basket up and down, If it moves you have bad bearings and when tension is on belt causes pulley to move out of center squared position.

Haven't heard of this happening yet on these Maytag machines but someone had something similar happening with a Friggadair front loader and this is what the problem was.
William Burk (Willie)
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#5 mastertech011

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 03:07 AM

Ive read a lot of reports that the tub bearing can wear out on the Neptunes. In fact I just purchased an outer tub, the only way you can get the bearing, just for the day mine goes out. Its whining already.

In email communication with most of the sellers on Ebay selling used Neptune parts, the outer tub bearing failure is the number one reason for canning the whole machine. 


#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 03:56 AM

[user=123]mastertech011[/user] wrote:

Ive read a lot of reports that the tub bearing can wear out on the Neptunes.

Mastertech, are sure you're not confusing this with the Friggidare washers?

So you mean, after all that work you did prettying up your Neptune, the bearings crapped out on you?  Or you bought the outer tub just in case?


#7 mastertech011

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 07:24 AM

Just in case for now boss.. :) I got a new one for 61.00 so I figured best to snatch a great deal now than to pay thru the nose when unexpected failure time comes. :)  Right now I just hear a groaning noise on spin down which I suspect is an early sign.. otherwise it is quiet as a mouse.. I have pumped lubricant through the hole in the back of the tub to try to extend the life of the one thats there.

Hey what can I say, Im a parts hoarder.. LOL


#8 wuz73

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 09:48 AM

I don't think the bearing has any problem. First, the tub turns easily and smoothly. Second, I tried to move the spin basket up and down as suggested, and it's super tight. So what else could cause the problem?

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 11:00 AM

[user=427]wuz73[/user] wrote:

I don't think the bearing has any problem.

Odds are that it doesn't.  The noise probably originates from the belt rubbing on the pulley.  Try replacing the belt. 


#10 The Seven

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 12:35 PM

mastertech011,

Thanks posting the photos about your cleaning of your Neptune. It could be very surprised if other service-tech would do such dirty job.

Excellent done!

The Seven

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#11 denrayr

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 07:05 PM

when you replaced the belt did you replace the isolation grommets?
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Serving St George and Southern Utah

#12 wuz73

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Posted 28 April 2005 - 10:13 AM

What are isolation grommets? Where are they and how do I replace them?

#13 mastertech011

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Posted 28 April 2005 - 02:26 PM

I noticed most of the sellers of the neptune drive belt include a pair of the isolators with it. They fit in the holes in the tub base where the motor mounts. The legs of the motor slip into the isolators.

#14 The Seven

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Posted 28 April 2005 - 05:01 PM

After viewing and reading the excellent and well-explained photos from "mastertech011" (definately not from ApprenticeTech), he is well-deserved as his nickname "Master".

Grateful if our Honourable Samurai Appliance Repair Man could have the same thought.;)
The Seven

#15 mastertech011

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Posted 28 April 2005 - 05:41 PM

Seven, thanks, but I am a master FORD technician... :) Im just a wanna be appliantologist.. :) But I do like to work on what I can myself. Thats the point of these great sites... do what you can yourself with good advice and guidance and call the pros when you cant. But as a pro auto technician I do appreciate it when the do it yourselfers just leave alone what they are clueless about. Ive seen way too many break more than they fix, and spend lots more guessing than what a pro would have cost them in the long run. If I get in over my head on an appliance Im gonna back away and let the pro do the work.


#16 Lurker_p00bare_*

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Posted 12 May 2005 - 06:22 PM

:( The two 1/8" holes in the white plastic tub near the hub (in my MAH3000) seen in the back behind the large pulley are "weep holes" to permit any water that leaks past the shaft seal to exit from the immediate bearing area. The front bearing also has its own seal to keep water out and grease in.

By squirting grease in these holes you have likely blocked them, preventing harmful water from being slung out of the bearing area. From what I saw when mine was opened, any grease coming in the holes would have a very hard time getting into the bearing in any useful way. With the inner (stainless) tub & shaft removed, I used a needle injector on a small grease gun to carefully inject moly-sulfide grease under the bearing seal. This is a temporary fix, because I likely have bearing damage, considering the noise (whine at high spin) and condition of the water seal.

My bearing problem was likely caused by water corrosion, the result of a failed shaft (not bearing) seal. If you see rusty water & streaks near the weep holes, be prepared for the worst! I replaced my seal with a part from Maytag. Note: the shaft seal has been modified (improved) by Maytag, but the new seal can not be used on the older models without replacing the outer tub and/or shaft (support assembly). The standard part from Maytag includes both tytpes of seal.

The Neptune front loader bearings can be replaced without removing and replacing the outer tub (tub replacement is Maytag's way; parts = $300+); see links below. I have the kit from E-Z Way, and will replace my bearings in the near future.

http://beesmart-ezway.com/cla.htm

http://www.bobvila.c...ges/249657.html

#17 mastertech011

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Posted 16 May 2005 - 03:18 AM

Yes, I have since recieved my spare outer tub and saw how the holes were just vents and would not add lubricant in any effective way to the bearings. It was something I tried on the advice of a professional appliantologist, not from this site, which just goes to show that just because you have a liscense doesnt mean you can drive.

You know I have found that Maytag does sell the bearings separately but not publicly. You can buy the Tony Tool on the internet to replace the bearings. But of course that tool is over 450.00.  Im sure there are ways a professional can remove and replace without the high priced special tool though. 

 

Sealkit 12002022

Front bearing 22002934

Rear bearing 22003441

 


#18 Lurker_Washer User_*

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Posted 16 May 2005 - 05:26 AM

Glad to hear so many tips from various contributors.




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