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new frigidaire FTF530FS washer won't agitate or spin


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7 replies to this topic

#1 ruth_alice

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 06:19 PM

Hi everyone.

I purchased a Frigidaire FTF530FS washer on 20 Feb 2011, and got it shipped to Belize, Central America, where I live. After a mix up with the shipping, I finally got the washer home last week. I installed it as per instructions, put in a load of washing, and it worked beautifully until about 2/3 way through, when the timer seemed to stop moving on. After waiting 20 min, I nudged it on by hand, but nothing (it should have been agitating). I continued to move it on gently by hand, and then it successfully drained. but did not spin. Basically, the washer now fills and drains, but does not agitate or spin.

Warranty isn't valid since the washer is now outside the US, so after waiting 4 months for a washer, and now again being without one after not even one load of clothes got successfully washed, I'm at wits end. It is expensive to ship parts to Belize due to shipping charges, plus the 40% import duty that customs here charge, so i want to get an accurate diagnosis of the problem before ordering any parts.

The timer motor seems to run (i can see it running during certain stages of the cycle), but the timer does not seem to move through the cycle on its own.

I tested the signal control board and got the following:
On 6-pin plug, voltage 120V between pins 5 and 6
Between 6-pin plug & 10 ping plug:
Pin 5 (6-pin) and Pin 1 (pink/black) (10-pin): 120V
Pin 5 (6-pin) and Pin 10 (brown) (10-pin): 0V
Pin 5 (6-pin) and Pin 2: 120V
Pin 5 (6-pin) and Pin 6: 120V

From the wiring diagram, it seems I have incorrect voltage on Pin 1 and Pin 10. It tells me to check the timer contacts - Pin 1 should be open, and Pin 10 closed, but I am not sure how to check the timer contacts.

On another website someone suggested it might be the door lock assembly, but I thought that could only affect spin, not agitate? The door lock light does come on, the machine fills with water, and drains, and will not open once the machine is running. I bought a service manual, and tried various diagnostic tests, but to be honest I am just getting confused!

All advice very welcome!

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 07:28 PM

are those voltage readings with:
" Set the timer to the heavy Wash position of the Regular wash cycle."

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#3 ruth_alice

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 09:46 AM

Hi thanks for the reply - I already have the service manual. Yes, those voltage readings are with the timer set to heavy wash.

#4 ruth_alice

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 09:51 AM

In the service manual, I'm not sure whether to follow "timer does not advance" or "motor does not turn" diagnostics! I tried both...can't remember what I got for the timer test, but for measuring the resistance for the motor the results didn't make any sense to me...not an open or a short circuit really - got around 20 mega ohms!

#5 ruth_alice

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 09:52 AM

Please is there nobody that can provide any additional advice? I'm stuck all the way in Belize, Central America, where nobody knows how to fix these machines, and my warranty is invalid! I spent 6 weeks' Belizean wages on this machine, it is brand new, and not working!

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 10:10 AM

... In the service manual, I'm not sure whether to follow "timer does not advance" or "motor does not turn" diagnostics!
... I tried both...can't remember what I got for the timer test,
... but for measuring the resistance for the motor the results didn't make any sense to me

1) The Motor Controller does pause the Timer at times ...
2) then you'll have to do those tests again
3) If you're using you OHM meter correctly, Motor resistances should be about 2.6 OHMs
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#7 ruth_alice

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 09:18 AM

OK.

So I don't know if the Ohm setting on my multimeter doesn't work, or if I'm not reading it right, but in an attempt to read it correctly, I screwed out the speed control board from its setting...and hey presto, noticed that there is a whole section that is burnt out (resistors R40-R49), plus component U2 looks like it was also damaged (looks like it has a chip out of the topside rather than burnt out - could that have caused the other fault?). I presume this means I need a new speed control board. Would this also explain the voltages I mentioned in my first post?

When I look at p50 on the service manual: motor does not turn diagnostics...if I skip the first test and assume the resistances are correct, then I do get 120V reading as required...and following the flow diagram it also leads me to "defective speed control board" diagnosis.

Is there any way I can independently check the motor function given that my speed control board is messed up?

Many thanks

Ruth

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 08:15 PM

there is a whole section that is burnt out (resistors R40-R49), plus component U2 looks like it was also damaged (looks like it has a chip out of the topside rather than burnt out -


Wow, would love to see photos. Brownie points!


could that have caused the other fault?). I presume this means I need a new speed control board. Would this also explain the voltages I mentioned in my first post?


Yes to all.
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Is there any way I can independently check the motor function given that my speed control board is messed up?


Only test you can do on these is check the continuity of the motor windings and check for high resistance leak from winding to ground. If that's good, then you gotta just go with the m otor control board.







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