GE Profile Arctica PSS25NGMDBB
Posted 17 June 2011 - 01:20 PM
However I am left with the too low temp in the drawers. The main damper and fan assembly (which has been replaced twice, first by a GE repairman, then by me) seem to be OK because the main compartment temp correctly hovers around 37 where it is set. The bottom "Custom Cool Drawer" is set to the 43 degree setting, but it is staying in the 33 - 38 degree range with overnight dips to 32.
Is there a temp sensor that controls the fan at the back of the bottom drawer that might be involved in this problem?
Other sensors or anything else I should be investigating?
Posted 17 June 2011 - 02:24 PM
It can be tested if you have a muiti meter.
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Posted 02 August 2011 - 06:53 PM
Should FZ and FF be set to something specific before pressing all four buttons?
If not, any ideas on why self-diagnostics is not starting?
(BTW - that 38 Custom Cool drawer consistently reads 4-6 degrees high - thermometer reading was 34 when pic taken.)
Posted 02 August 2011 - 11:05 PM
Diagnostic pages 31-9118 Artica SxS Dual Evap w Electronic Touch.pdf
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Posted 08 August 2011 - 02:37 PM
Anyone having these symptoms who has the Custom Cool system (but no Turbo Cool FF evaporator) really must get the GE Custom Cool Manual 31-9075 at www.geservicenet.com/cc/prodtrng/Docs/11/31-9075.pdf
I realize the problem is either the thermister or one of the two different dampers in that compartment. (Or thermister AND one or both of the dampers.) The heater strip seems OK because the Quick Thaw feature brings the drawer from below 30 to above 40 in 10 - 15 minutes or less. Can I draw any conclusion about the health of the single damper unit from this? Are the CC dampers high-fail-rate parts like the upper damper?
When I do the disassembly to replace the CC thermister is there any way to test the damper functioning? From the drawings those dampers appear to be more robust than the problematic upper damper, but if there are no obvious crooked or broken damper doors how can I test them? I plan on having replacement dampers on hand, but I would really like to avoid installing them if the current ones are OK and the thermister is the only problem.
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Posted 15 August 2011 - 01:43 AM
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