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GE Refrigerator PSI23NGNABB Defrost Problem


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17 replies to this topic

#1 CocoaBeach

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 12:03 PM

I have a GE Profile side-by-side refrigerator that was installed in 2002. About a year ago, it stopping defrosting, the back panel of the freezer compartment got covered with frost, the freezer coils got caked with ice, and the freezer and refrigerator temperature started to rise. The defrost heater coil was completely black, so I replaced it and the problem was solved.

Then about a month ago, the no-defrost problem returned, so I again replaced the defrost heater coil. When I examined the coil I'd pulled, however, I was a bit stumped because it had continuity and indicated the same resistance as the replacement coil. The frost returned, so I assumed that there was something else wrong.

I used a jumper to connect line and defrost leads on the motherboard, and the defrost coil immediately started to glow and defrost the freezer. So I assumed that the motherboard was bad.

I pulled the motherboard and found a burnt solder connection on the back of the board under the compressor IC, so I ordered and installed a new motherboard. I installed it and the refrigerator seems to run fine (although when I open the door, the refrigerator keeps running, whereas with the original motherboard, opening the door would cause the refrigerator to stop until the door was closed again). However, when I put the freezer through the #14 diagnostic test to defrost, the fans and compressor altered their operation, but the defrost heater didn't glow. I again jumped the line and defrost leads in the motherboard, and again, the coil glowed red and defrosted things.

What should be the next part(s) I replace?

Many thanks.

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 06:16 PM

Can you post or fax your tech sheet so we can have a look at it for you? Fax: 866-315-4504

#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 07:17 PM

.. I ordered and installed a new motherboard.

did you follow the instructions with the new Motherboard ?
(do NOT cut any wires for your model)

should be the same as 31-9072
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#4 CocoaBeach

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 07:45 PM

Tech sheet attached. Thank you!



Attached File  Tech Sheet_Page_2.jpg   168.4KB   18 downloads

Attached File  Tech Sheet_Page_1.jpg   195.88KB   15 downloads

#5 CocoaBeach

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 07:53 PM

did you folloe the instructions with the new Motherboard ?
(do NOT cut any wires for your model)

should be the same as 31-9072


Yes, I followed all instructions on the new motherboard. I skipped step 2 (eliminate thermistor wire) and step 4 (cut green wire in capacitor board) as both steps are only for people with bottom freezer units, and mine is a side-by-side.

And the main board I installed was a WR55X10942 as the GE website indicated this was the appropriate replacement for my unit.

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 08:53 PM

... I put the freezer through the #14 diagnostic test to defrost...


I'm not seeing the test referenced in the tech sheets you posted. What's your source for this?

#7 CocoaBeach

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 09:06 PM

I'm not seeing the test referenced in the tech sheets you posted. What's your source for this?


This link: http://www.mediafire.com/?dmyfyeudzfz that leads to a file called ge-arctica-pro-sxs-refr-defrost-mode.pdf

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 09:16 PM

That's from the PSS/GSS service manual. Your box is a PSI-- I don't know that this applies.

#9 CocoaBeach

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 09:27 PM

That's from the PSS/GSS service manual. Your box is a PSI-- I don't know that this applies.


Hmm. Interesting. All the test numbers DO seem to do what the chart says they should.

#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 11:47 PM

ahhh similar to 31-9118 w/Custom Cool
Diagnostics
Pages from 31-9118 Artica SxS Dual Evap w Electronic Touch.pdf
.

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#11 CocoaBeach

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 02:34 AM

ahhh similar to 31-9118 w/Custom Cool
Diagnostics
Pages from 31-9118 Artica SxS Dual Evap w Electronic Touch.pdf


Super helpful -- thank you very much. Actually, note #2 helps a lot -- I did a #15 and a #16 to reset the system, and after doing so, the unit started acting like it used to where opening one of the doors would change how the system operates (something or other would stop running while the door was open and then start running again when the door was closed). And the comment about how the defroster wouldn't come on when the evaporator thermistor is above 70 degrees is also instructive, since when I ran test #14 previously, the coil didn't come on -- something tells me I have a bad evaporator thermistor (and perhaps a bad defrost thermostat).

#12 CocoaBeach

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 02:45 AM

Can I just add as well that this refrigerator has been a disappointment for most of its life? It's never been treated roughly, but interior plastic panels and drawers have broken multiple times, I think we had to replace the water tubing at one point, and now all these issues with the defrost components. Is this common? I would have thought a GE refrigerator -- especially one from the Profile line -- would have been a mid-grade, reliable unit and not a race-for-the-bottom unit with the cheapest possible design and cheapest possible Chinese parts, but apparently that's not the case. Between this fridge and my GE washing machine with the grammatical error in the instructions printed under the lid, I wonder what's going on at the company. If they can design and sell a quality jet engine (which apparently they can) they ought to be able to design and sell a quality home appliance. But I digress...

#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 07:33 AM

... If they can design and sell a quality jet engine (which apparently they can) they ought to be able to design and sell a quality home appliance. But I digress...

... yes, their Jet engines are good ... appliances are another story ...
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#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 07:35 AM

... yes, their Jet engines are good ... appliances are another story ...


And their nuclear reactors, e.g., Fukushima

#15 CocoaBeach

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 01:03 PM

What is the difference between the evaporator thermistor and the defrost thermostat?

#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 02:59 PM

The (variable) Thermistor tells the Controller the temperature.
The Defrost Thermostat is just a safety Switch that opens IF the Defrost Heater gets too hot from a Controller failure.

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=914093

 

00855831.jpg

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1170024

 

00653957.jpg


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#17 CocoaBeach

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 03:58 PM

Thanks for explaining that difference between the thermistor and the defrost thermostat.

The new evaporator thermistor arrived and is installed and the defrost cycle now works! MANY thanks for the advice!!!

Let me just add a special thanks because this was a dual-failure problem (thermistor AND motherboard). So if I'd called a technician, it probably would have taken a lot of time (and $$$) to diagnose, if it would have been diagnosed at all (in which case I'd be buying a new fridge (although certainly not a GE) for even bigger bucks).

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 04:31 PM

... I'd be buying a new fridge (although certainly not a GE)

:whistling:
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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