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15fer

GE Profile Not Cooling, compressor not working

11 posts in this topic

Greetings all...

Here's what I have:

6 year old GE Profile side by side, model PSW26MSRCSS, S/N ZG...

The fridge stopped cooling both fresh food and freezer compartments a couple days ago. Opened back panel, I hear the compressor/relay/overload clicking but the compressor does not kick on. All lights and fans work. I suspected the relay or overload to be bad. I took them to an appliance repair shop, they tested both parts and said they are functioning fine. The terminals on the compressor measure 6.8, 4.7, and 11.5. Measured voltage going into the overload, 114v. Could this be a bad board? I looked at the list of recalled GE boards posted by Pegi here: http://appliantology...h__1#entry64728 . The top says the recall affects serial prefixes ZH-RL. So, I assume my ZG serial number does not fall under this recall.

The gentleman at the repair shop said the overload usually goes out but he said mine was working fine. He said most likely its a bad compressor but he cannot repair it for me because he is not a licensed GE repairman. He did refer me to someone who does work on GE. That repairman said the compressors don't usually go out that quickly and said GEs are notorious for blowing boards.

Based on what I have included, what do you think may be causing the problem?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... I assume my ZG serial number does not fall under this recall.

... He did refer me to someone who does work on GE.

1) ZG = DEC 2004, 1 year before the recall

2) you could ask the GE repairman if he has a "used" Relay/Overload that you could try ... ?

OR

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Thanks for the reply. I got the part but it looks different than the one I currently have. Anything I should be concerned with?

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post a picture of your part (somewhere)

then post the link here ...

OR do you have a part number ?

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Try this. On the front where the ice dispenser is there should be a green light. While that light is on, press the dispenser button. If the light almost goes completely out the the mobo is bad. It is typical problem for the caps to go bad on the power supply section of the board. You can try taking and jump the two outer terminals on the mono. I can't remember which j# it is off hand though. Typically, GE don't use an electronic relay so if the overload is good, you should be able to shake the relay. If it sounds like sand in it it is bad. If not usually it is good. This don't work on electronic relays though. I made a box for about thirty bux that allows me to jump compressors. But that's another story.

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QUESTEION... GE Capacitor Part #WR62X79, is that a start capacitor or run capacitor?

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It's a run capacitor. You can remove the run capacitor and it will still work OK, just not as energy efficient. The run capacitor rarely every fail.

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Thanks Budget. Your reply begs for another question. I've changed the relay/overload combo with an OEM replacement and the compressor still would not run. It humms and clicks but no go... The control board also check good. My next step was to change out the capacitor. But now... from your reply, even if the run capacitor was bad, the compressor would still run. Not knowing what else to do, I tried a Supco 3-in-1. The compressor started right up. What does this mean???

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That means you will soon be needing to replace the compressor or buy a new refrigerator.

The compressor is becomming stuck to the point that the factory specified relay isnt strong

enough to make it start. the hard start gives it an extra kick....may last a few days, may last

a few years. Compressor replacement has to be done by a professional and costs around

$600 turn key.

I would go ahead and make a decision of what your going to do when the time comes...

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SO, since the compressor is bad to the point where it will not start on its own and will need replacment soon, theres no harm in using the 3-in-1 till it goes out completely, right?

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That is correct.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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