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Replaced Drain Pump and LG Tromm still not drain at end of cycle


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1 reply to this topic

#1 Fredly

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 01:05 PM

I have an LG washer, that started getting an OE error mid-cycle (I am aware this is a Drain Error)

I ordered and replace the defective drainage pump, but although the washer NOW drains mid cycle (which it didn;t before), it does not drain at the end of the cycle (leaving the clothes wet at the end of the cycle)

There are two pumps in the LG, 1 above (80W, which is the drainage I believe) and 1 below (30W, which is the recirculation I believe) the drainage assembly. I replaced the one above, but am wondering if the one below is also defective as the washer drains mid-cycle but not at the end of the cycle OR did I accidently put the AC wire back in correctly.

Thoughts/suggestions/next steps?

Thanx much for your input, Fred



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#2 john63

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 09:53 PM

<<<it does not drain at the end of the cycle (leaving the clothes wet at the end of the cycle>>>

************

Is the ***correct*** type & amount of detergent being used?

If NOT:

Suds will cause slower SPIN SPEEDS---resulting in wet laundry at the end of the cycle.
Water will still drain-out but the laundry will not be spin-dried sufficiently---which causes the dryer to need a much longer period to dry the laundry.

*************

<<<There are two pumps in the LG>>>

*************

Yes---if facing the front of the washer---the left side is the DRAIN MOTOR & the right side is the RECIRCULATION MOTOR.
It's important to replace the DRAIN MOTOR with the *correct* one.

(NOTE: Not alL LG washers have a RECIRCULATION MOTOR)

*************

<<<did I accidently put the AC wire back in correctly.>>>

*************

Install the PUMP MOTOR wires incorrectly? No---the two wires to the PUMP MOTOR can be installed either way.

*************

<<<Thoughts/suggestions/next steps?>>>

*************

Verify that the water is draining full force---not a trickle.
If not draining normally---may have a partial blockage in the *white plastic gooseneck* on the DRAIN HOSE.
This is located at the left/rear corner of the washer---the top cover must be removed to gain access.
Using compressed air to clear a blockage is best.
Remove the DRAIN HOSE at the PUMP HOUSING & insert the compressed air nozzle into the DRAIN HOSE---be sure to **plug** the small black tubing which runs/routes from the GOOSENECK to the TUB ASSY to prevent pressure-loss.
Using compressed air in this manner---will allow blasting out debris into/down the drain standpipe or utilitub.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




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