6 replies to this topic

[kevvie]

I have a GW501 washer, now 12 years old. It has started to fill up very s-l-o-w-l-y, to the point of being unusable.

I have checked all filters, they are ok. The resistance of the solenoids reads at 15 Ohms for each, so I assume the problem is elsewhere - especially since both hot and cold water are equally slow.

I've seen some discussion on this topic at http://fixitnow.com/...n-fisher_30.htm and am guessing it is the power control and pressure sensing module, but the online parts supplier doesn't seem to have a part with that description - closest is http://spares.allied...ontrol&x=33&y=8

Any suggestions? (either part names or what the problem might be)

Thanks,

Kev.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Are you on a well?  If so, and given the age of the washer, it's likely the valve assembly needs to be replaced.  What you're describing is ezzacly what happens when sediment from a well gets into the valve and gunks it up.

Also, check your water pressure at the hose.  If you filter screens in either end of the hose, remove and/or replace them.

Buy your parts directly from Fisher-Paykel.  You'll get a better price and you know you'll be getting a genuine replacment part.

[kevvie]

Thanks for the reply. No wells anywhere near me, we have a good clean soft water supply. I have checked the hoses, good pressure all the way through, and disassembled everything to the solenoid to make sure there were no signs of any gunk. In fact they were all spotless.

Since we only ever have used cold water in the machine, and the problem exists equally for the hot and cold water, and the solenoids read ok from a resistance perspective, I am assuming it is the control board. Which I have since found out is $230 for a reconditioned one. If I did have to replace the inlet valves, that comes to $94. And the pump is on it's way out, which is $76 I know will be coming along soon.

Methinks it is time to cave in to the boss of the house and buy a new machine (which is bigger as well).....

Cheers,

Kevin.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

No need to guess about it: an easy check would be to measure the supply voltage at the water inlet valve solenoid terminals.  If you're getting junk voltage then, yepper, you got yer self a bad control board.  Voltage good?  Then the valve is trash.  Slam dunk.

And who charges $94 for a valve!?  Sounds like I've been drastically undercharging and leaving money on the table!  :shock:

 

[The Seven]

[user=23]kevvie[/user] wrote:

Since we only ever have used cold water in the machine, and the problem exists equally for the hot and cold water, and the solenoids read ok from a resistance perspective, I am assuming it is the control board. Which I have since found out is $230 for a reconditioned one. If I did have to replace the inlet valves, that comes to $94. And the pump is on it's way out, which is $76 I know will be coming along soon.

The website is in Australia. So the price quoted should be in Aust $.

The website states that these soleniods (COLD and HOT inlets) are 12V. But it does not tell us whether it is 12Vdc or 12Vac. So you might have to use the multi-meter wisely. You could test and operate the soleniods if you have the correct external 12V sourve.

[kevvie]

That's a good point.

I put the meter on the solenoids with the following results:

COLD WASH: cold terminals 12V. hot terminals 0V

WARM WASH: cold terminals 12V. hot terminals 7.6V

HOT WASH: cold terminals 12V. hot terminals 12V

So I guess that means the controller board is working and I have two faulty solenoids. Funny that the cold one is more expensive ($AU57) than the hot one ($AU37) but I'm sure the spare parts pricing guys had a good reason.

Looks like it lives for a little longer yet.

Thanks for the help.:D

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Glad to help.  Nice troubleshootin', Hoss!