Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

GE Profile Refrigerator -- Model: PFSS5NJWASS - Part 2


  • Please log in to reply
23 replies to this topic

#1 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 30 July 2011 - 04:03 PM

Hi,
We have a GE refrigerator that wasn't cooling Friday morning. This is a bottom-freezer, french-door model.

We first thought it was the fan, but then realized that both the fridge and the freezer were getting warmer.
We think it is the evaporator fan. We also found a lot of water in the gaskets where the flap is that opens between the freezer and the fridge. But we think this is because the freezer door does not seal properly.
Maybe this humidity dripped down onto the fan?

The compressor works, the back of the freezer gets cold and the condensor fan works too.

Another thing I've read is that sometimes the fan dies because of the curcuit board.

So I'm wondering, is there a way to tell which it is, the board or the fan, with out first buying one and switching it out?

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 30 July 2011 - 06:29 PM

What are the Fridge and Freezer temperatures ?
Would need to take care of that Door Gasket, otherwise the entering humidity could over-frost the Evaporator Coils causing a no-air-flow- condition
Does the Evaporator Fan run ?
May need to post pictures (somewhere) of the frost pattern of the Freezer Evaporator.
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#3 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 30 July 2011 - 08:01 PM

Both are in the upper 70s and have been all day, since we removed the freezer door and unplugged it, hoping that if it was a matter of ice/frost buid up it would melt.

We have removed the vent/cover, "Cover evap f(an)" on the Sears parts site, in the freezer that covers the fan. The fan moves freely but will not turn on when the refrigerator is turned on.

At this point we probablty have no frost/ice on the coils due to turning it off for 24 hours now. And we have not seen a big amount of water in the back plate/tray.

I hope to get a picture of the area later (don't have a camera handy right now).

But I have attached the diagram from Sears. Parts 199 and 200 are what I've removed to see the fan.

One more thing, my father heard a fan make a lot of noise about a week ago, but it hadn't since then. So it ran well for almost a week after the noise.

Attached Files



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,160 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 31 July 2011 - 09:28 AM

With temperatures that warm, I wonder if we're dealing with the famous door sag-light switch problem where the door sags just enough that it doesnt make contact with the light switch to turn it off. Check this by opening the beer compartment door and immediately touching theblight bulb-- if it's warm or hot, then that's a ding ding ding. Would also explain why the evaporator fan isn't running.

#5 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 31 July 2011 - 03:19 PM


We unplugged the fridge when the temps were 14 freezer and 50+ refrigerator. so it has been unplugged for almost 48 hours now.

We have finished removing the fan and its motor. There is continuity amongst all 4 wires in the connector. (red, white, yellow, blue) There is no thermistor connection on this one.


Red to Yellow : 1625 Ohm (the others when up quickly, this one took forever to go beyond 1500)
Red to Blue: 1904 Ohms
Red to White: 1662 Ohms

Yellow to Blue: 1665 Ohms
Yellow to White: 1620 Ohms

Blue to White: 2070





#6 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 31 July 2011 - 03:30 PM

No door sag.

Lights are off when doors are closed.

#7 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 31 July 2011 - 10:15 PM

Checked voltage in the freezer connector that the fan plugs into and goes to the board, and it seems fine.

Red to White and Blue was 13.xx volts DC.

Red to Yellow was .008


Unless the fact that Red to Yellow on the fan was the one that slowed down a lot and was the connection that registered almost nothing in the connection leading to the board means something,
then the board is sending what it should to the fan and the fan has continuity.

We also tried to check the J2 Pin3 Fan Common and J2 Pin4 Evaporator Fan and got 0.009, although we are not sure if the tester tips really made contact. Very tight fit.
It does however measure almost the same as the Red to Yellow in the freezer.



#8 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 31 July 2011 - 10:56 PM

... we are not sure if the tester tips really made contact. Very tight fit.

could use some "wire extensions" wrapped around the probes ...

from another GE model that uses the same Evaporator Fan:

At the evaporator fan connector, check for 13VDC from the red to white wire
and 8-13VDC from the white to yellow wire.
Is the voltage correct for both?
YES . . . Replace evaporator fan motor

NO:
Unplug J2 connector on the main control board.
Check for 13VDC between pins J2-3 and J2-8
and 8-13VDC between pins J2-3 and J2-4.
Is the voltage correct for both?

YES... repair wiring

NO:
Replace main control board
NOTE: When no voltage at main control board,
make certain to check for shorted fan motor
(less than 1K ohm between white to red or white to yellow).
A shorted fan motor will damage the replacement main board.
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 01 August 2011 - 01:01 PM

Yea, we ended up checking the white to yellow and found it at 13 VDC so we ordered a new fan motor last night. By the way, that link you have to order parts has the best price anywhere. :)

We are to receive the motor Wednesday, so I'll post how the intallation goes.


Now something we are wondering is that while the power supply is 13 VDC, the motor says it is rated for 9.75 Volts DC/3.25 Watts.

If it is rated for 9.75, is it ok for it to be powered by 13VDC? Or is there a step down inside of the motor housing?

#10 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 01 August 2011 - 01:57 PM

.. If it is rated for 9.75, is it ok for it to be powered by 13VDC?

should be OK, as long as it's in a cold environment :whistling:
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#11 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 03 August 2011 - 09:51 PM

OK.

Fan motor installed and the refrigerator is rinning well.

When we got the new motor, we check it out first and there were some differences.

All connections fell by 10-25 ohms, but we saw a bigger drop or change in two.

Red to Yellow : 1625 Ohm (the others when up quickly, this one took forever to go beyond 1500) <<<----- This one stopped at 1480 and stayed there.

Yellow to Blue: 1665 Ohms <<<< ----One of these two (can't remember which now) registered as O.L. (I think)
Yellow to White: 1620 Ohms <<<


In under 3 hours, it has fallen from 79 Freezer / 73 Fridge to now 21 Freezer / 49 Fridge.

Thanks for your help.

#12 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 04 August 2011 - 02:18 AM

that link you have to order parts has the best price anywhere. :)



....... not to mention the INSANE return policy !
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#13 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 06 August 2011 - 06:55 PM

I realized that I had not uploaded any pics. In case someone else should have the same problem.


Remove all the shelves/trays/baskets, including in the icemaker.

I had to remove the freezer door (the screws that go into the door itself, 5 on each side, although we have holes for 6 on each side.).

Then the icemaker wall or separator. Just lift at the bottom to pop out the tabs and slide the bottom to the right.

Then the two white bars that the separator's tabs were in.

Then the icemaker itself. And the screw in the back holding the left side of the evap fan cover to the back wall.


Remove the other vent cover beneath the evap fan cover. It is wide. Just pull from the center and slightly downward then pull it straigth toward yourself.
The bottom is held in with 3 tabs that catch only when it is bent into place.

Then the evap fan cover has one tab by the screw and two more tabs at the right. The two at the bottom of the evap fan cover go pretty much straight in so there is no maneuvering for those.

Then the screws behind the evap fan cover that help brace the fan itself.

Then you should be able to pop the back wall out, but look around in case I forgot someting.

Just remembered you might have to extend out the drawer rails on the right side of the freezer. They got in the way for me.



You'll see two white plastic screws coming out of and pointing up from the two vents BELOW the evap fan cover, one each vent. Don't touch those, they just help hold stuff (insulation) to the other side.

Once you remove the back wall, you can remove two more screws for the fan that hold it in and remove the plastic tie that holds several wires including the fan wires, in place (in the left upper corner)

The tie has a whole in it for screwing into the back wall and had no idea where to get another like it. So, I just used a small screwdriver to slide it out from itself and then reused it.

OK. Now replace your fan and do everything in reverse! (Oh! Joy!)

Attached Files



#14 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 11 August 2011 - 03:40 PM

I asked for help with this fridge in the following thread..

http://appliantology...el-pfss5njwass/

Ran well for one week and now a second problem...


The freezer is iced up and the fridge is warm. The evap fan is still working.

The flap between the two compartments is ok. Opens when it should.

Down to the defrost parts.

The following parts are listed.

266 on diagram
Thermostat d
PART NUMBER: WR50X10069


268 on diagram
Temperature sensor
PART NUMBER: WR55X10711


Can we assume that the defrost timer itself is on the circuit board? Can't find one on the blow out diagrams.

#15 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 11 August 2011 - 04:03 PM

... Can we assume that the defrost timer itself is on the circuit board? Can't find one on the blow out diagrams.

How's the Defrost Heater ?
yes, Defrost is a function of the MotherBoard ..
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1550509

 

01093590.jpg


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#16 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,716 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 11 August 2011 - 04:58 PM

These boards mainly use sensor info as opposed to time to determine when to begin a defrost cycle. Manually turn on the heater by jumping the "line" and "defrost" pins on your board. If your freezer is cold at all it should satisfy the bimetal defrost limit used on a profile so your heater should turn on. If it doesn't, then either the heater or the limit is bad. If the heater turns on, then your board will not go into defrost cycle on its own. Your problem is either temp sensor or board. Change defrost temp sensor...see what happens, then buy a board if your problem persists.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 11 August 2011 - 04:59 PM.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#17 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 12 August 2011 - 12:44 PM

These boards mainly use sensor info as opposed to time to determine when to begin a defrost cycle. Manually turn on the heater by jumping the "line" and "defrost" pins on your board.


How long do I keep these shorted to see if it works? Will I hear a sound or do I leave it shorted until I see it deftrosting?

We got 16 amps between J9 Defrost and J11 Line, when testing them.

Between J9 Defrost and J7-Pin9 we got 28 ohms.

Attached Files



#18 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 12 August 2011 - 01:38 PM

... How long do I keep these shorted to see if it works?
... Will I hear a sound or do I leave it shorted until I see it deftrosting?
... We got 16 amps between J9 Defrost and J11 Line, when testing them.
... Between J9 Defrost and J7-Pin9 we got 28 ohms.

1) about 10 to 15 minutes (or until defrosted)
2) should be able to see it Defrost if you have the Evaporator Cover removed
3) should be about 4 amps
4) that's about right
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#19 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 12 August 2011 - 02:28 PM

1) about 10 to 15 minutes (or until defrosted)
2) should be able to see it Defrost if you have the Evaporator Cover removed
3) should be about 4 amps
4) that's about right


1) We've had it on for about half an hour now.
2) We do not have the cover removed. Since turning it on the temp has risen several degrees. (heater works?)
3) So if it is measuring 4 times the amps (16 instead of 4) does that point to something?

If the heater turns on, then your board will not go into defrost cycle on its own. Your problem is either temp sensor or board. Change defrost temp sensor...see what happens, then buy a board if your problem persists.


We are going to go with changing the sensor, as you suggested.

(Hopefully it is not the board. )

#20 Abracapocus

Abracapocus

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 12 August 2011 - 02:31 PM

this is the part.

http://www.repaircli...0X10069/1170025

which is...

266 on diagram
Thermostat d
PART NUMBER: WR50X10069






Recent blog entries on this topic

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics