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Kenmore Dryer 110.73942101 - no heat


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11 replies to this topic

#1 Susan1430

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Posted 17 August 2011 - 11:26 PM

Kenmore dryer 110.73942101


Let me start out by saying thanks in advance for bearing with me and for any advice or insight you can offer!

Our Kenmore gas dryer stopped heating a week or two ago. It would go on, tumble, and advance through the drying cycle just fine, but the air wasn't being heated. This was true regardless of a) which drying cycle it was on and B) the heat level it was set to. The dryer sits against an exterior wall so the dryer vent pipe is less than a foot long, but I did check it out and the airflow is unimpeded.

I have very little understanding of how a gas dryer works, but I do have a screwdriver, multimeter, and a decent ability to follow directions, so took it apart and tested the flame sensor, hi-limit fuse, and ignitor. Those three things all checked out okay. At that point I was out of time and out of components I could easily identify/isolate, so after giving everything a good vacuuming I reassembled the dryer (mostly to make sure I hadn't broken it further). Lo and behold, it worked! I'd hear a clack, then another clack, then the ignitor would get cherry red, then a third click and the gas would come on and ignite and it was all good. Hooray! I tried it on both drying cycles (letting it go for 10+ minutes to make sure it would heat multiple times) and on different heat settings, and it was fine.

Unfortunately "fine" only lasted for two loads of laundry. When I went to check on the third load towards the end of the cycle I found that the clothes weren't at all warm. I don't know whether the dryer had been heating at all early in the cycle, but it wasn't working anymore. After a few hours break for dinner I tried again, and still no heat. I'm not hearing any of the clacking noises associated with the flame coming on while the dryer was working properly. The ignitor isn't heating up at all (well, at least there's no visual indication that it is).

I'm at a loss for what could be causing this, and would appreciate any insight as to possible culprits. I'll do my best to test any components that could potentially be responsible, but I don't know what to test: I have no idea which one(s) could stop working, then work again for a while, then stop working again. :(

Thanks in advance for any help!

Susan

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#2 kdog

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Posted 17 August 2011 - 11:36 PM

Classic symptoms of a bad coil on gas valve, they come in a set (help video in link)

 

http://www.repaircli...Set/279834/3479

 


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#3 Susan1430

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Posted 18 August 2011 - 08:20 AM

Thank you for the reply, kdog. I had thought that if the gas valve was the problem I'd still hear the first two clacks and see the ignitor get red then go off again without any flame igniting. I didn't know that a faulty gas valve coil would stop the whole process and cause the ignitor not to heat up at all.

Thank you again,
Susan

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 August 2011 - 09:30 AM

... I didn't know that a faulty gas valve coil would stop the whole process and cause the ignitor not to heat up at all.
.... I had thought that if the gas valve was the problem I'd still hear the first two clacks and see the ignitor get red then go off again without any flame igniting.

1) no, it can't ...
2) may be confusing description of observations ...
Ignitor glows first, then the clicks ...
If Ignitor isn't glowing, then you have a different problem...
When the Ignitor isn't glowing (but should be)..
measure for 120v AC to chassis (ground), at each terminal of the white Thermal Fuse on the Blower Housing ..
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#5 Susan1430

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Posted 18 August 2011 - 02:42 PM

1) no, it can't ...
2) may be confusing description of observations ...
Ignitor glows first, then the clicks ...
If Ignitor isn't glowing, then you have a different problem...
When the Ignitor isn't glowing (but should be)..
measure for 120v AC to chassis (ground), at either terminal of the white Thermal Fuse on the Blower Housing ..


I'm sorry if my description of what is happening wasn't clear.

When the dryer was working properly, we would:
1. Hear a single "clack" noise.
2. About 5 seconds later, hear another clack.
3. See the ignitor become red
4. Hear a click (presumably of the gas valve opening)
5. See the flame ignite.

Now that the dryer is (once again) not heating, we are no longer hearing any of those noises. The ignitor isn't glowing and there's no flame/no sound of the gas valve opening.

Thank you for the suggestion RegUS_PatOff. I'll check the voltage to ground at one terminal of the Thermal Fuse while the dryer is running.

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 August 2011 - 03:20 PM

normal operation ..

1) Ignitor glows
2) various clacks ... Gas Valve opens and Ignitor stops glowing
3) Gas and Flame stays on until Dryer heat rises to about 160F, then goes off
4) Flame stays off until Dryer heat drops to about 135F
repeat
.

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#7 Susan1430

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Posted 18 August 2011 - 03:47 PM

normal operation ..

1) Ignitor glows
2) various clacks ... Gas Valve opens and Ignitor stops glowing
3) Gas and Flame stays on until Dryer heat rises to about 160F, then goes off
4) Flame stays off until Dryer heat drops to about 135F
repeat


Thank you for the clarification. That's what was happening when the dryer was working, except that we would hear two distinct clacks 3-5 seconds apart before the ignitor got red. Now no clacks, no ignitor glowing, no sound of the gas valve opening. The dryer seems to be working fine except for the lack of heat (it's tumbling, the timer advances through the cycle, the dryer shuts off at the end of the cycle).

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 August 2011 - 03:53 PM

... we would hear two distinct clacks 3-5 seconds apart before the ignitor got red.

that may be the Relays in the main Controller
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 AvanteAppliance

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 01:46 AM

Just get a new one....J/King, try the heater relay on the console. Ohm the left hand terminals on it.
"Get crunk with it get loose with it, my clients don't care as long as your @$$ fixes it."

#10 washertech26

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 06:02 PM

If the thermal fuse it good and there it no power at the ignitor I have a feeling its the even heat control board... I have had problems with them for years .. I would always replace heater relay (red wire going to it), the thermistor and the even heat board....

#11 AvanteAppliance

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 07:22 PM

Even heat board=Big bucks.....
"Get crunk with it get loose with it, my clients don't care as long as your @$$ fixes it."

#12 washertech26

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 08:13 PM

Even heat board is 75.00 are you return the core..

I bet I have replace over a hundred of them failed all the time... Thats why I always replaced all three you replace just one always got a recall






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