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GE Front Loading Washer WSXH208A1WW


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21 replies to this topic

#1 anthopper

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 03:04 PM

Apologies in advance for providing incomplete diagnostic info and/or using incorrect terms to describe my issue. I am a neophyte in this arena, but am willing to listen (or read in this case), learn and take direction.

A few days ago my wife commented that the washer was taking a long time to finish a load. I checked the washer and it was in the spin cycle (according to the dial), but there was no movement inside. The clothes inside were very damp/wet, but not soaking/dripping wet. I am not sure how long they were hanging out there.

We had a draining issue 5 years back when the washer was new that was serviced under warranty and determined to be a jam in the pump caused by a drywall screw. Based on this experience alone and doing no other diagnostics, I decided to check this first. I went to the googles and found this site. I followed the pretty clear instructions on how to get to the pump and check it for an obstruction.

~After disconnecting the power, I removed the lower access panel and disconnected the intake (from the tub) and outlet (to the drain) hoses connected to the pump. There was a little water in the outlet hose, but not a tremendous amount. A small bath towel soaked up what came out and it seemed to be close to what would be standing in the hose. I did not notice any water coming from the intake house.

~I disconnected the power to the pump and unmounted the pump. There did not appear to be a jam when I inspected the pump. From there, I took the pump apart and cleaned off the impeller area (there was a bit of gunk, but no debris), put it back together and reconnected the pump to the power and reconnected the hoses.

~Before I powered it back up, I noticed that BOTH of the shocks/stabilizers were broken. My wife confirmed that the washer had been banging around it bit, but she thought it was just off balance. I'd heard this before as well, but willfully ignored it.

Following another post on this site (really, this is a great site), I ordered new shocks from RepairClinic (which btw, thanks to your site I got the Frigidaire ones as 1/5 the price of the GE ones, thanks again!) and they arrived within two days!. I put them in last night and reran the washer. I was hopeful, based on other posts I read, that the machine was sensing an imbalance and not allowing the washer to move into the spin cycle.

Results after the repair are mixed and I will confess up front I have not been particularly patient or thorough in watching/documenting the washer while it is operating. I tend to get bored quickly, leave the room and come back later to see what is going on with it. If I need to get better more specific info here, let me know and I'll camp out in the laundry room and take better notes.

This is what I have observed:

~When I put the washer straight to spin and turn it on, it fills the drum then kicks on the pump. The pump drains the tub and then seems to keep running. The noise of the pump appears to change a few seconds after the visible water level drops below the drum as if is is fully drained, but then the pump keeps running and the spin cycle never starts. I usually stop the machine after awhile as I am concerned that the pump may burn out, so I have not let it run for too long after it seem drained--maybe 2mins.

~If I advance the knob manually a tick, the drum will move in one direction for a handful of spins, stop, them spin in the other--pretty slowly. But it does not usually go into a full spin. One one run, it did get up to a full spin after I 'messed with it a bit' (e.g. a rocked the machine back and forth a bit, checked /lifted the drain to see if there was standing water in the hose, fiddled with the knobs, etc..all in all really poor diagnostics). It ran and spun out two wet towels and appears to get well up to speed. Both towels were only damp when I pulled them out.

~The door will often not open for me when 'messing with it' and though some combo of turning the knob and pulling the plug it will open. I read in another post that what might really be happening is that I am waiting just long enough for some window of time to elapse as there is a protection in place to not allow the door to open too soon after it is shut off when in the spin cycle.

~When I start the washer regularly, it runs through the first wash but hangs up after it pumps out similar to the spin cycle I described above.

I will take any and all advice or suggestions you have on this matter and will do my best to respond to any clarifying questions.

Thanks,

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 August 2011 - 09:11 PM

GE WSXH208A1WW made by Frigidaire :thumbsup:
The Timer is sometimes also controlled by The Motor Controller ..
but first also check:
When in the Spin Cycle, does the Door actually lock ?
If so, then unplug the Power Cord from the Wall Outlet.
Can you then open the Door, or only after a few minutes ?

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=877728

 

00770266.jpg

 


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#3 anthopper

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 07:55 AM

Thanks for your reply.

I ran a load through last night and tried to keep a better eye on things.

I did do the check that you suggested and the door does lock during the spin cycle and if I stop the cycle the door will not open for a few minutes, even if I unplug and plug the machine in,

I was able to get a load done, but I had to advance the dial manually to get it to start the next cycle.

For example, on the regular wash/cotton the tub will fill and at first it will spin the load in one direction for a dozen or so spins, wait and then do the same in the other direction. This goes on for awhile and then it drains.

I think this is normal washing, but honestly I am not sure. I never paid much attention to all of the cycles before there was a problem, so I am not quite sure what to expect for 'normal behavior' Is there a resource somewhere that i can read through that will explain what each cycle SHOULD do so a I know when it isn't?

Once it drains after the first wash cycle, it just seem to hang up and do nothing. The pump runs and the output into the drain line is full--same diameter as the hose I pull it up from the pipe that goes out to the sewer. I think it should go into a spin here and then a rinse but it will not (or I am not waiting long enough). I f I advance the dial a tick it will refill and then agitate again which I have perceived as the full rinse cycle. Same issue with the final spin, but in this case when I advance the dial I will get it to go into a full spin.

I hope this is helpful info. If there is some other specific case I should test, please let me know.

Thanks again.

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 10:49 AM

Timer does not advance
Set the timer to the start of the heavy wash cycle.
Allow the washer to operate for 3 minutes.
Then measure the voltage drop between
pin 5 of the ten pin plug on the speed control board
and pin 5 of the six pin plug on the speed control board.
120 VAC = Defective speed control board.
0 VAC = Defective timer.
.

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#5 anthopper

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:37 AM

Wow that is very specific and great.

I have a multimeter, though it has been a long time since I have used one. That said, I am pretty sure I can figure out how to run the test.

Can you point me toward tear down instructions or something similar that will show how best to access the speed control board for this model washer?

Thank you very much for the quick and clear responses.

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 12:19 PM

here's one diagram ..
Motor Speed Control # 204 in Cabinet
http://www.searspart...WW/0432/0153200
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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#7 anthopper

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 12:52 PM

Thanks.

Looking at the cabinet diagram, I am going to assume that I will need to access the speed control board by removing the back and possible top panels.

I am going to go ahead and get me one of those apprenticeships.

This is a great site, you've been tremendously helpful and I've gotten a bunch out of it already--I'd like to support it and stop freeloading.

I have issues with my dishwasher, dryer and a stove in a rental unit that I'll probably need to follow up on as well...

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 03:56 PM

Frigidaire 5995369211 AC Drive FL 4 + TOP RIGHT & 3 + FRONT RIGHT.pdf
GE 31-9060 Frnt Ld Wshr 2nd Gen.pdf
links PM'd
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 anthopper

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 03:21 PM

I just finished running the test and I am coming up with 0 VAC between 5 on the six pin plug (5th counting from the bottom up) and the 5th pin on the 10 pin plug (again 5th from the bottom and on the left hand side).

I got zero or near zero, but I'd like to be reasonably sure I did this right. These are the steps I followed:

~I cut the water and power, disconnected the hoses and removed the back panel.

~Located the speed control board on the bottom left and removed both the 6 and the 10 pin plugs

~ Reconnected power (but not water), set the knob to Heavy wash and waited a few minutes (the unit quietly hummed--it was a pretty tranquil 3 minutes)

~I set my meter to 200 V~ (black lead on COM, red lead on V)

~Placed the black lead on the 5th of 6 pin (the lead went most of the way in before it stopped), then the red lead on 5th of 10 pin (the lead went in about 1/3-1/2 the length of the lead before it stopped)

~The reading would start at 0.4 and then level out to 0.0.

Though this seems to mean that the timer is the culprit, and as it is a cheaper part/repair, that should be good news. But I am suspicious of my own results, as I was simply following a procedure with little overall understanding (I hope this comes with time and some reading). I poked around a bit while I was down there and consistently came up with a 0.0 reading between the 5th of 6 pin and all of the pins on the 10 pin board. Maybe this is fine, but it seemed wrong.

I hope this is enough info for you to see what I may have done wrong or right. Let me know and I'll keep plugging away.

Thanks again.

hope things are nice and dry in WI. The skies opened up something fierce here in the last couple hours and I'm hoping my basement stays dry and the roof stays attached.

#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 05:49 PM

... Though this seems to mean that the timer is the culprit,
... hope things are nice and dry in WI. The skies opened up something fierce here in the last couple hours and I'm hoping my basement stays dry and the roof stays attached.

1) AccApp wrote:
First rule: It's not the timer.
Second rule: It's probably not the timer.
Third rule: It could be the timer. But rule out all other possibilities first.
I have yet to replace a timer in a Frigidaire built f/l washer, the one I almost
did had one of the timer harness plugs knocked loose by an out of balance load.

check for 120v between pins 5 and 6 of the 6 pin Plug

2) yes, sunny and dry here .. :whistling:
maybe you'll need a whole new washer :banghead:
Posted Image
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#11 anthopper

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 06:24 PM

Earlier, I did actually check for a reading between the 5th and 6th pin on the 6-pin plug and I got a 0.0 as well. I did this with the unit running on the heavy cycle. I just checked again and got the same result. I've checked the meter itself on a dc battery and an ac outlet and I am confident it is working. I'm a little unsure I am getting the probes where they should be in the pinholes though, as I've never done this before.

I certainly had an imbalance problem, as I had to replace both stabilizers/shocks. Should I go ahead and figure out how to inspect the timer for loose connections?

All things equal, I'd be fine replacing the control board, as that is still cheaper than a brandy new washer.


Thanks for getting back to me on a weekend.

Glad to here all is well back in the Midwest (I used to live in Appleton and Eau Claire), it's just wet here at the moment. The real fun starts tomorrow.

#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 07:08 PM

There should be 120v between 5 & 6...
try making some "probe extensions" with some (thin) wire
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#13 kdog

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 12:01 AM

~ Reconnected power (but not water), set the knob to Heavy wash and waited a few minutes (the unit quietly hummed--it was a pretty tranquil 3 minutes)



When testing this way, hum that is heard is from watervalve solenoid attempting to fill machine - you need to let the tub fill and have the unit tumbling for 3 minutes prior to checking - the idea is to see if the communication between the timer and control board is lost during failure
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#14 kdog

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 12:20 AM

P/M'd the Friggy manual
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 07:34 AM

Frigidaire 5995369211 AC Drive FL 4 + TOP RIGHT & 3 + FRONT RIGHT.pdf
GE 31-9060 Frnt Ld Wshr 2nd Gen.pdf
links PM'd


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#16 anthopper

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 08:36 AM

Thanks. I will reconnect the water the next time I can test and try again. I assumed I was doing something wrong....thanks for checking my post.

#17 anthopper

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 10:11 AM

If possible, I'd like to clarify the testing procedure here.

I've reconnected the water lines and turned the water back on.

If I set the knob to Heavy and pull it let it fill, then run for three mins, do I then disconnect the power, pull the 6 and 10 pin plugs out, reconnect power and test?

I feel like I am missing something.

Thanks,

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 06:42 PM

sounds good...
The Timer only runs for 3 minutes at a time, the waits for the Motor Controller to power it to the next "click"
then the Timer runs for another 3 minutes, etc ...
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#19 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 06:01 AM

You very well could have a bad motor control board. It supplies the signal to the timer to make it advance like RegUS says.

Some of the first Frigidaire models that are the same as this machine they had a service bulletin on this problem. The motor control board would receive electronic glitches from the timer contacts open/closing and it would scramble the brains of the controller getting it stuck in an endless loop. They upgraded/revised the motor control boards to be protected from electrical noise. I have no idea if GE was rebranding the Frigidaire front loaders that far back were this could be your issue.

What is the build date of your machine, Frigidaire usually has it printed on the model/serial# label. I've never ran into one of these GE branded Frigidaire units so don't know what they info they include on the tag. From the service bulletins it looks like around Jan-Mar 2003 was the first time this issue was mentioned in a service bulletin then again in Oct 2003 and then again in April of 2004 it still seemed to be an ongoing problem.

Here's the page from the April 2004 service bulletin, (Volume 24, Issue 4, Page 9)
This article is an update from Electrolux Service Bulletin volume 23, issue 7, page 10.

Problem: Cycle Not Advancing or Timer Stalling Symptoms Update

Cause: The root cause of washer stalling in cycle (timer not advancing) on horizontal axis washers is electrical noise generated primarily by the timer contacts opening and closing which can interfere with proper operation of the speed control board. At times, depending on ambient environmental conditions, this electrical noise can cause the motor controller board to receive corrupt signals and remain on “stand by condition” resulting in the cycle not advancing.

By manually advancing the timer to the next step in the cycle or by turning the washer’s
power off and on, the electrical noise is discharged and the washer will perform until electrical noise may happen to interfere once again.

Solution: To resolve this issue, three jumpers have been added to the current motor controller board to reduce electrical noise levels around the microprocessor. Testing has proven this change to the board significantly reduces occurrence of control lock-up. The motor controller board assembly with external jumpers is Part Number 134306000, identified by an information label with the number 134058400 Rev C or 134258700 on it. The label may be yellow, orange, red, white, green, etc.

134306000 will replace the following part numbers:
131770700
131887601
134149200

If the SCU 134306000 has been replaced and the timer continues to stall, replace with
SCU 131887601GE.

Ed Anderson
Webster City, IA
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#20 anthopper

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 09:00 AM

Willie, thanks for the additional info. My unit was manufactured in November of 2004, so that should be after the bulletin

I am going to run these tests again when I have a chance (have a little post-hurricane clean-up to do here), but am thinking I will go ahead and buy the part from repair clinic and see what happens.

Thanks,






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