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LG TROMM WM2277HW washer turns on, won't start


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5 replies to this topic

#1 dohertyc9

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 05:40 PM

I bought a used LG TROMM WM2277HW washer. Incidentally I drove the machine home in my van, on its back, without any shipping bolts or anything. I didn't know about those at the time, obviously.


It worked well for the first month or so, but we noticed that we had to press the Start or Play / Pause button repeatedly to get it to start. Several other minor buttons (extended rinse etc) never worked, but we never use those anyway.

Also the door was hard to close - it got to the point where you have to hold it close so that it latches properly when it starts. Otherwise we get a DE error code which goes away if you hold the door shut properly.

Recently the Start button stopped responding completely. I pressed and held the child lock button, though those side buttons aren't working anyway. After some googling I found the repair manual for these models. I assume the problem is with part number 6871EC1116C PWB (PCB) ASSEMBLY, DISPLAY. Weirdly enough, however, when I went to dismantle the machine it started working again.

Few days later it quit again. So I took apart the machine and that link looks exactly like the part behind the play button which isn't working. All the connections were secure. I jiggled things around, plugged it in without reassembling, and the board lights up but the Start button still won't respond.

I'm assuming that by replacing this board I'll get it to work. I just hook up the three connections, right?

However, that door problem worries me. Would the Start button work if the door wasn't shut properly?

-- As a side note, when the machine was running, it would leak. Just a small amount, at some indeterminate point in the cycle. Is this the drain hose? I found a drain hose replacement page that seemed to describe my problem and how to fix it, but I can't find that page now.

Thanks for any help!
Chris

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#2 dohertyc9

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 06:17 PM

Actually, looking at the part in my hand, that's not the right part number at all! It's 6871ER2078A.

#3 john63

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 10:13 PM

<<<we noticed that we had to press the Start or Play / Pause button repeatedly to get it to start. Several other minor buttons (extended rinse etc) never worked>>>

**************

Unplug the washer.

Check the wire/plug connections behind the JOG DIAL at the center of the Control Panel.
Add a tiny amount of electrically-conductive compound (such as Noalox) to the *female* end of the connectors.

Plug in the washer

1) Press & Hold the SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons

2) Press/Release the POWER button

If the *entire* Control Panel lights up (all lights "on")---the DISPLAY BOARD is *not* defective.

Check all wire/plugs at the MAIN BOARD as well.

Another area worth inspecting...

If the START button appears more *recessed* than the POWER button---the button may have cracked on the opposite side. This will cause unreliable function of the START button.
Replacing the CONTROL PANEL is the only remedy for a damaged button (smaller components of the CONTROL PANEL are not available individually).

Yet another possibility---in rare cases---the START button *microswitch* (on the DISPLAY BOARD) may be failing/erratic. This can be verified by removing the DISPLAY BOARD & actuating the cycle (pressing the microswitch) to test it's reliability by starting a cycle several times.

*************

<<<Also the door was hard to close - it got to the point where you have to hold it close so that it latches properly when it starts. Otherwise we get a DE error code which goes away if you hold the door shut properly.>>>

*************

Replace the DOOR HINGE ASSY (4775ER2002A)---older model LG washers were prone to corroded/stiff hinge movement---which usually causes a water leak at the door during the wash cycle as well as a "dE" error.
New HINGES ASSYs are re-designed and less likely to corrode from spilled-bleach (bleach is highly corrosive).

*************

<<As a side note, when the machine was running, it would leak. Just a small amount, at some indeterminate point in the cycle.>>>

*************

If the origin of the water leak is NOT from the door---it is most likely from the REAR TUB VENT.
This is a suds leak caused by incorrect type of detergent OR too much "HE" (low suds) detergent.
Usually becomes noticeable on the floor---sometime after the RINSE CYCLE.

FINAL NOTE:

There are several iterations of the LG WM2277 model washer.
When ordering replacement parts---it is imperative that the SERIAL NUMBER be provided.
If unable to do so on www.repairclinic.com ---simply post the SERAIL NUMBER on this thread & I will identify the *correct* part number for any part(s) needed.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#4 dohertyc9

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 02:26 PM

I figured the 'microswitches' were failing because after removing the front cover of the display board, I plugged the display board back in and it would still perform the same: power on, but no play/start button activity (just blinking), and erratic response of the other buttons near it. I wish I could replace just the switches! So I purchased the display board through this site (repairclinic.com) -- which, by the way, it arrived overnight, so that was fantastic -- and the new display board works perfectly. I think that also means it couldn't be a connection issue at the wire connections.

However the door was still giving me problems, so I took apart the hinge mechanism and actually whacked the hinges in (on the washing machine side) a few centimeters with a rubber mallet. Now the door closes much better too, and there don't appear to be leaks.

Thanks for the help.

#5 kdog

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 07:16 PM

whacked the hinges in (on the washing machine side) a few centimeters with a rubber mallet. Now the door closes much better



Good on ya !! You improvised, welcome to our world ........................
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#6 john63

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 08:25 PM

Good job isolating the cause of the erratic "NON-RESPONSIVE CONTROL PANEL".

The DOOR HINGE however---will remain an issue until it has been replaced.
Once corrosion sets in---the hinge will be a nuisance issue.

Good luck
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




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