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frigidaire washer LTF2940ES1


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53 replies to this topic

#1 thespen

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 01:45 PM

I have a front load frigidaire washer that is giving me error code E59 when I do the test. I ohmed out the motor and it appears to be good so the test said the speed control board is bad. I bought the new "motor control board" which I was told is the "speed control board" and it didn't fix the problem. I realize I didn't buy the part from you and I'm sorry about that but I will buy the correct part from you if you can tell me what that is. I'm out $160 now and don't want to keep throwing money down the tubes. Please help me.

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 02:24 PM

Can't you return the board for a refund?

Do you have the tech sheet? It's inside the washer-- remove that bottom front panel and you'll see it in an envelope pasted to the inside wall. It specifies some tests to do for this error code.

#3 thespen

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 02:43 PM

I can't return the board, they won't take back electric parts, if I can prove it's bad, they'll send me another one but that's about it. I have no idea how to test it or I would have done it to the original. I follow the test instructions I found in the washer, they told me to ohm out the motor and the reading were good so I then was told the speed control board, aka the motor control board was bad, we'll they ain't right!! Maybe my meter is wrong, I'm going to borrow a real good one and ohm out the motor again, if it's shows good again, I have no idea what to do other than call in the repair guy which I really don't want to do!!!!!

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 03:02 PM

The board may be bad. As for proof, well, the washer ain't running-- should be all the proof they need!

FYI, you can return any part you buy thru this site for any reason here, even electrical parts that were already installed!

#5 thespen

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 03:25 PM

Not only do I have to pay for the shipping to return the part, I have to pay for the shipping of the new one. Everyone out there, don't buy your parts from Appliance zone.

#6 thespen

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 03:38 PM

I still get nothing when I turn on the washer but the hum so I ran the test again, now I get error code E14, Reed Switch. Test paperwork says check water pressure, needs 30psi, good there, check hoses, good there. Next says replace the water inlet valve assembly, where is that and do you think that's the problem?

#7 thespen

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 04:24 PM

I found the valve assembly, I honesty don't think it's the problem. I still get a loud hum from the motor control board area when I do the test but the new code is E14, not E59. This is annoying as hell. Looks like the valve is $45, this swapping out of parts ain't the way to go, too expensive. Please reply with suggestions.



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 07:19 PM

3. Disconnect the plug from the drive motor and measure the resistance between pins 4 & 5 in the motor.
Reading should be between 105 & 130 Ohms
what reading do you get ?


4. Disconnect the plug from the motor and measure the resistance of the windings
(pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to pin 3).
All readings should be between 4 and 6 Ohms.
what readings do you get ?


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#9 thespen

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 09:10 PM

I'm going to get a much better meter tomorrow and test the motor again, I did the test with my meter and got good reading from the motor. Why after replacing the motor control unit would I now get a error E14, inlet valve assembly bad but I still get a hum from the motor or motor control board? Time for a cold beer, lots of them and the start of another monday.

#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 09:11 PM

... what readings do you get ?


.. error E14

E14 Reed Switch
Dispenser Drawer closed ?
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#11 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 05:26 AM

Are you sure you have the water turned on?? Maybe the hum you are hearing is from the water inlet valve. I've never heard the motor or motor controller on one of these machines hum.

It appears this unit has the digital display so there shouldn't be any problem with the error codes that you are reporting back to us in the forum.

I don't know the errors codes from memory so I don't know what the actual tech sheet says about and E59 error but maybe it said "Control Board", not "Control Board, Motor". This machine uses the new inverter style motor control and I haven't had to ever replace one of these yet. I have seen a good share of the main control boards fail in this newer 3.5 cubic ft F/L Frigidaire washer.

Have you used the tech sheet inside the machine and did the procedure to put it into diagnostic mode to run individual component function test yet? If you have tried to put it into diagnostics and are having problems getting it to do what it should that would be an indication of a bad "Main Control Board".
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#12 thespen

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 10:20 AM

I'll double check the drawer and make sure it's closed then run the test again. Yes this machine has the digital display on the front, I went through the steps on the test paperwork and got error code E59, I ohmed out the motor as instructed and got reading within the range they said but I'm going to do it again tonight with a much better meter. The hum I hear is down at the bottom of the machine near the motor and motor controller that's why I don't suspect the inlet valve assembly. The test paperwork says E59 is the speed control board but I was told that's the motor control board that's why I ordered it and tried it but it didn't fix the problem. With the new motor controller in the machine I ran the test again and got code E14, inlet valve assembly according to the paperwork. I have the water on, the machine will do all the things it's suppose to do as I turn the dial to test each section of the machine. One the 9th turn of the dial I get the hum and error code E14 now but E59 before I replaced the motor controller. After I run another test and if I get E14, I'm going to put the original motor control back in the machine and run the test again. If E14 comes up again, I guess I'm going to have to replace the inlet vavle assembly but I find it rather strange that after replacing the board, I'm now getting a different code.

#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 10:53 AM

... E14, Reed Switch. Test paperwork says check water pressure

:kopkrab: what paperwork are you using ?
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#14 thespen

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 11:32 AM

I'm using the paperwork I found inside the washer in an envelope.

#15 thespen

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 11:36 AM

Oh yeah, I checked the house water pressure, it's good and I made sure there was no water running when I ran my test on the washer. Next to a diamond, a washer is rated very high on my wifes list of must haves so I've got to get this thing fixed.

#16 kdog

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 05:57 PM

Oh yeah, I checked the house water pressure, it's good



Did you try checking it at the point the water enters the washer (aka fill hose)? It is not uncommon for the screens to get plugged with crap
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#17 thespen

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 06:39 PM

Ok, I ohmed the motor and got 5.4 between 1-2, 5.4 between 1-3, 5.4 between 2-3 and 118 between 4-5. I put the original motor controller back in the washer and ran the test again, still getting E14. When I run the test one of them is to test the water inlet solenoid and they all let water into the drum so how could the problem be the water valve assembly?? I'm at a lose here, can someone please give me a clue???? I took the hot and cold hoses off the washer and made sure they were clear of anything, their fine and my pressure is good. Checked the detergent holder and made sure it is closed good and it is. The hum is still there and it's down low in the machine on the motor and motor controller side.

Yes did that.

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 06:43 PM

E14 Reed Switch
Dispenser Drawer closed ?


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#19 thespen

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 07:04 PM

checked it, it's closed, ran all test again and still get E14

#20 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 07:08 PM

checked it, it's closed, ran all test again and still get E14

... and the Magnet is in place on the back of the Drawer ?
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