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Problem with Icemaker 106.50592003

17 posts in this topic

We have a Kenmore Elite side by side (model 106.50592003). Yesterday there was water in front of it. We opened the freezer door and found water all over the place. It looked a water supply line had broke, but there was no running water. I soon determined the icemaker wasn't working. After some research I did one suggested test, but can't remember which one it was. On that test the infrared receiver sensor blinked two or three times, but quit blinking after the first round of blinks. I think it was two blinks.

I also tried another test (see attached picture) where you jumper the thermostat and go through the various steps and then view the status LED code, which was a solid light for five seconds. And, what was funny when I did the test is that the injector bar did move, but when I pulled out the jumper before the ejector blades reached the 10:00 o'clock position there was no water fill which there should have been.

Any help someone can give will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

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I just unplugged the refrigerator for about 10 seconds and then plugged it back in. When I opened the door I got four blicks and it was repeated once.

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One more thing I just found out. There was a kind of loud bang noise that my wife heard. Rather than get up right away my wife just shurgged it off and then a while later she walked across the mat in front of the refrigerator and noticed it was wet.

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Matches a few scenario's - might be an issue where the icemaker fill water is spilling/leaking, shutting the icemaker off will prevent further flooding until you've fingered out wut's going on there

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Kdog, the ice maker has been left on every since the problem began, except for when I was running tests, and there has been no water leaks or flooding. In fact there has been no water fill every since the problem began.

Thanks.

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When you run that T-H jumper test, you are only supposed to leave the jumper in to initiate the cycle and then remove it, otherwise you could cause the fuse in the I/M to fail

Best bet is to initiate the cycle and then watch for voltage to appear at the watervalve for a few seconds

More here: http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/24/troubleshooting-flowchart-for-the-whirlpool-built-modular-icemaker/

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When you say "When you run that T-H jumper test, you are only supposed to leave the jumper in to initiate the cycle and then remove it", that's what I've been doing.

When you say "watch for voltage to appear at the watervalve ", where do I connect the multimeter (water valve or contacts N and V at the motor) and what should the voltage reading be?

When I go to the trouble shooting flow chart at the scribd.com site and click on the flow chart boxes nothing happens. I'm assuming I need to register with the site in order to be able to click the boxes and have something happen. Am I right?

Thanks.

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Also, when I do the T-H jumper test the ice striper starts moving, but when I pull the jumper wire after initiating the cycle the striper quits moving and there is no water fill.

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The 4 "blinks" or pulses according to the manual means you have a defective relay. The manual says to replace both the emitter and receiver boards. At least take them out and have a look.

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As for my previous statement about the striper quiting when I pull the jumper wire. Somehow I did something incorrectly. It might be that the striper was moving so slowly that I thought it stopped.

So, I did a test that resulted in verifing the ice maker control circuit is working correctly meaning both the optic boards are working properly. I then did the T - H jumper test and the striper went through its complete cycle, but the water didn't come on. At the end of the T - H jumper test, after the water fill cycle is complete, you disconnect the power and then reconnect the power with the door shut and wait over five seconds till you open the door and view the status of the led, which in this case what happened was the LED was lit for five seconds. This also means the control curcuit is working correctly.

Given above, I'm convinced the ice maker water valve is no working correctly. Is there away to test it? It kinda looks like you can use a V - N jumper to turn on the pump, but I'm not sure about that. Can someone tell me how to test the ice maker pump?

Thanks.

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.. kinda looks like you can use a V - N jumper to turn on the pump

with power removed, you could measure the resistance of the Water Valve at V to N

To activate the Water Valve, jumper V to L for a few seconds

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Awesome! Thank you RegUS.

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although, the Water Line for the IceMaker could be frozen ..

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I found out how to test the ice maker valve. I jump wire the "V" and "N" holes and nothing happened. I also checked for voltage and there was none between those two holes. Between the two tests I now feel confident the ice maker valve is bad.

Thanks so much to everyone. It's greatly appreciated.

I should have said REgUS told me how to test the valve.

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You can test the valve by energizing the coil with a cheater cord (this is done behind fridge), no voltage across V-N is inconclusive; Measure Line(L) - V (Valve)

Icemaker sends power to valve, if no power = Icemaker if power but no water = Water off or bad Valve

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Ice-Maker-Assembly/4317943/1857?modelNumber=106.50592003

 

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http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Water-Inlet-Valve/4389177/949403?modelNumber=106.50592003

 

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... I jump wire the "V" and "N" holes and nothing happened.

.. nothing should happen ...

with power removed, you could measure the resistance of the Water Valve at V to N

To activate the Water Valve, jumper V to L for a few seconds

and / or test for 120v across V to N while it should be filling...

(only about 7 seconds)

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