25 replies to this topic

[jgarb]

I have a Whirlpool Model GSX9885JQ0. It is a "catalyst" model and that "feature" produces an Error F4 so we do not use it.

I have had to fix the wire harness attachment to the motor mount (it was constantly shorting.) And had to replaced the Basket Drive Block a few years back. the machine is about 10-years old

Currently the machine is making a "skipping" or "pulsing" noise when the motor is operating at medium speed. Any help would be appreciated.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Runs okay at low and high speeds? This is usually either the timer or speed selector switch energizing two windings at the same time.

Can you post a nice image of the wiring diagram?

[RegUS_PatOff]

hhmm.. only (1) Whirlpool model, besides a few Kenmore's
Tech Sheet 3954914 page 3:

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Check the back/solder side of the board for bad/burnt solder connections at all the relays, (and especially the motor relays).

[jgarb]

Yes it is only the Medium speed that is having an "issue". This is seen clearly in all diagnostic tests.

The posted Tech sheet is the correct one.

As far as the Board - it looks fine.

Where is the Timer?

[RegUS_PatOff]

Where is the Timer?

no "Timer"
just TouchPad and Controller

[jgarb]

Am I needing a Control Board? That is a Part that is Expensive ant not often returnable.

[RegUS_PatOff]

if you could monitor the voltage at the Motor 6P medium speed
OR somehow try swapping the High and Medium speed wires at the Motor or Controller ...
Buy your parts here! Read More

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

My reference to the timer was made before I saw the wiring diagram; that control board replaces the timer.

On the control board, test the continuity of the medium speed winding on the motor by measuring the resistance from P7-2(WH/VT) to P9-2(WH/BK). Disconnect the wire harness from the control board and make the measurements on the at the appropriate pins on the wire harness. You're looking for a reading of very low ohms, 1 to 3 ohms.

If that's good, then we move on the voltage tests. These are done with the wire harness connected to the board. With the washer set on medium speed, measure the voltage to the medium speed motor winding and make sure you're getting a steady 120vac and that you're NOT getting 120vac to either of the other two windings.

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 07 September 2011 - 02:57 PM.
Corrected typo on test location.

[jgarb]

...

On the control board, test the continuity of the medium speed winding on the motor by measuring the resistance from P7-2(WH/VT) to P9-1(WH/BK). Disconnect the wire harness from the control board and make the measurements on the at the appropriate pins on the wire harness. You're looking for a reading of very low ohms, 1 to 3 ohms.
...

Pretty sure you mean P9-2

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Pretty sure you mean P9-2

Correctillia! Good job, I was just checking to see if you were paying attention!

I've edited my post to correct this.

[jgarb]

On the control board, test the continuity of the medium speed winding on the motor by measuring the resistance from P7-2(WH/VT) to P9-1(WH/BK). Disconnect the wire harness from the control board and make the measurements on the at the appropriate pins on the wire harness. You're looking for a reading of very low ohms, 1 to 3 ohms. ...

I will check this. To be clear, unplug the washer and check the pins of the Disconnected Wire Harness for Resistance. the Tech Sheet Test "4c. Wiring and Motor" (which is after the Voltage test) states to check resistance between P9-1 (BU) and P9-2 (WH/BK)

[jgarb]

I am only a Civil Engineer (barley made it through the Electrical Fundamentals class), just not trying to hurt the machine any more (or myself).

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I will check this. To be clear, unplug the washer and check the pins of the Disconnected Wire Harness for Resistance.

Yes, unplugged and with harnesses P7 and P9 disconnected. Checks made on the harness because you're measuring the motor winding resistance thru the harness.

the Tech Sheet Test "4c. Wiring and Motor" (which is after the Voltage test) states to check resistance between P9-1 (BU) and P9-2 (WH/BK)

That's for the high speed winding; you want to check the medium speed winding. Not a bad idea to check the other two while you're in there, just keep straight which one you're checking.

[jgarb]

Trying to paste a PDF image of the Tech Sheet for the washer. Too Large, made screen shot and pixed it down to 193k.

Attached Files

•  Washer Test_sm.png   192.8K   8 downloads

[jgarb]

Based on the Tech sheet It does seem strange that the correlating pins are not the same for the 4b And 4c test.

The Wire diagram, well again I deal with structural Engineering not this kind of thing. P9-1 does come in to the mix it seems.

What should this monkey do ... I want to bring back the proper information.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Ahhh! We're singing from different hymnals. I looked up your tech sheet at the Whirlpool servicer site based on the model number you gave. Where did you get that tech sheet?

Here's what Whirlpool shows in the tech sheet for your model number:

[jgarb]

The Tech Sheet was with the Washer behind the Control Board.
It states ate the bottom.Part No. 3954582

I need to share the saga of this machines history. Delivered new on 3/21/02. On Dec. 6,2006 under extended warranty, the Transducer. not a month later washer was "acting up" again but differently. Out of Extended, I found the problem was one of our little-ones sock in the pump. Easy fix. During this I did notice that the Basket seemed to be rubbing on the drum and the Whirlpool Washer Filter Plugs I purchased would in no way stay in. It should have been my first clue that something was wrong with the Basket so low, but at this time I had only looked into the "guts" of a washer a few times. Between the Feb 2007 and June 2007 I must have pulled socks out of the Pump 3 or 4 times. Finally notice the large gap in the top between the case rubber flange and the basket. "This can not be a good design" I thought. "This basket is sitting too low. End that story by saying I purchased a Spanner Wrench and replaced the Drive Block and it ran great. Then in Nov 2007 Error codes kept appearing I replaced the Control board on Dec 1, 2007. It did not fix it so the local part company said it may be that the replacement board is bad, so on Jan 4, 2008 I got a "new" replacement board, which still did not seem to completely fix the error code gremlin, but the part was not returnable. With many on and off problems it was finally narrowed down to a short in one of the wires to the Motor, ( I think it was a white wire.) You could see in the harness that it was a loss connection and shorting. After a couple attempts I have had no problems with the Shorting wire. (I think). Last few months running the Catalyst in the cycle produced an error code so we stopped using the Catalyst feature.

All this to say that the Control is not the Factory board if that matters. I do know that in the Diagnostic Test for the Neutral Drain/Spin test that the corresponding responses to the test are not the illumination of the "Soil Level" lights but of the "Load Size" lights. So I really do not know it that matters. the Wire Harnesses are all the original so I would think that the Board should correspond to the original.

[jgarb]

The above posted wiring diagram from Grand Master Funk has very small differences in the color of the BK wire from the Centrifugal motor switch to the "4 P AUX" which on my sheet is called the START 4P, and the wire is denoted as RD. The above Wire diagram states that it is for Control boards Part # 8526076 or 8271375. My diagram states that it is for Control boards Part # 8271375. My Boards PN is 8577278.

Am I messed up?

[jgarb]

If anyone is still with me here is the Data:

VOLTAGE TEST

Low Med High

P9-2 to P9-1 0 0-30 (Pulse) 120

to P9-3 120 120 120

to P9-4 0 0 0

to P7-1 120 120 0

to P7-2 0 120-90 (Pulse) 0

to P7-3 120 120-90 (Pulse) 0

to P7-4 120 0 0

RESISTANCE TEST

P9-2 to P9-1 1+ ohm

to P9-3 0

to P9-4 0

to P7-1 1+ ohm

to P7-2 0

to P7-3 0

to P7-4 1+ ohm