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Maytag MAH3000AWA makes a bumping noise but won't spin

Neptune wont spin

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13 replies to this topic

#1 Vaughnstermon

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 08:31 PM

I have a 1998 machine. I have replaced bearings/wax motor(door lock), Spinner assembly, door seal kit, door boot, in 2005. It has been performing like a work horse ever since. Helping my wife keeping us all in clean clothes ever since. However, it has developed a problem with the spin cycle. Door is locking, pump is draining, Drive System Diagnostics passes all three tests (1) Drive System Diagnostic Test (2) Drive System Phase Loss Test (3) Drive System Phase Continuitiy Test


It is making a slight attempt at spinning (I guess), by doing a bump/bump/bump, with barely no rotation happening. It will do this like two or three times, then machine powers down.
It acts the same, wether the drive belt in place or removed. Motor turns freely, as well as the drum.
It almost, seems like, maybe, that the motor is attempting to spin both directions at once? Have you ever heard of this? Might there be a control that could have fried and allow this to happen?

What you say? ever have a similar issue?
I must have this up and running soon, the wife is threatening me with the "L" word and i am not sure how many more clothes will fit in the hamper!

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#2 Moostafa

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 09:27 PM

Hello, my bumpy friend. I can just imagine how you were so shaken up with all the bumping that including a complete model number in your otherwise disturbed topic title was utterly beyond your abilities at that moment. Pray to Allah who is merciful and compassionate that you may gird up your loins like a man and post the complete model number for your washing machine.

Allahu Akbar!


#3 Vaughnstermon

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 05:41 AM

MAH3000AWA

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 04:40 PM

This sounds really odd and I've not seen this before. But to make sure I'm understanding the problem as it presents itself, this is the part where we ask you to shoot a short video showing the problem, upload it to Youtube and then post the link here so we can see it. Much Grass! :beatnik:

EDIT: Adding this bit from a Maytag tech bulletin; it may pertain to your problem (will know more with the video):



The motor drive system experienced a momentary loss of neutral feed from the power cord to the Motor Control Board. The neutral line for the Motor Control Board passes across the water valve solenoids. Neutral to the motor drive system can be momentarily lost If there is poor crimping of any of the wire terminals in this circuit. This situation could result in a misdiagnosis and unnecessary replacement of the Motor or Motor Controller Board.

Current Neptune front load washers will indicate a false locked rotor signal to the Machine Control Board. Washers with a LED display will flash code “LR” in the display. LCD washers will display “Locked Rotor.” The earlier built front loaders will not display a code, but simply shut down in mid- cycle or will not start.

Pull each terminal of the white wire harness connected to each water valve solenoid and verify the wire is properly stripped and crimped to the metal terminal connector of the wire harness. Make sure the wires fit snug on the terminals of the water valve solenoids.

A product improvement has been made to the following models. The neutral wire is routed across the pump only, and now by passes the water valve solenoids.

MAH55FLBWQ/W ..................... Series 12 MAH5500AWQ/W ..................... Series A7 MAH6500AWQ/W ..................... Series 33 MAH7500AWQ/W ..................... Series A6



#5 Vaughnstermon

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 09:42 PM



Per your wish,,,,,,,,,

#6 Vaughnstermon

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 09:49 PM

FYI, the last part when the pully is moving, this is me spinning it with by hand, to show that it will move freely.

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 09:56 PM

Good job on the video!

The background noise in the video is just the drain pump-- it runs off a separate circuit from the motor. That tech bulletin I posted may apply to your situation. Worth checking out, anyway. Check to see if your motor neutral wire passes over the water inlet valves. And do this:

Pull each terminal of the white wire harness connected to each water valve solenoid and verify the wire is properly stripped and crimped to the metal terminal connector of the wire harness. Make sure the wires fit snug on the terminals of the water valve solenoids.


And just to confirm: you did the basic motor function test and the motor turned at 50 rpm?

If all else checks out, then here's the machine control board for your washer ==> Machine Control Board

If it doesn't fix it, you can return it for a refund.

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 10:43 PM

... it has developed a problem with the spin cycle.

Motor works OK in the Agitate (Tumble) Cycle ?
Posted link for Machine Control Board is for series 17 and after
what is your series ?
(first 2 digits of serial number)
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#9 Vaughnstermon

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 06:02 AM

After further investigation, the motor acts this way, in all phases of the cycle.
White wires passing over the water control valves are fine.
I did perform the basic motor control test the other day and the motor spun the tub.
To confirm the 50 RPM, I just put a mark on the spoke, set my timer but NOW, it will NOT spin. It merely makes those three grunt attempts at movement. It does spin freely by hand.
Fuse checks out okay, no visable damage to the motor control board.
Yes, serial number begins with 18.
Will be able to check into deeper, but most leave for work now.

Thank you all for your thoughts and suggestions!

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 08:22 AM

After further investigation, the motor acts this way, in all phases of the cycle.

To confirm the 50 RPM, I just put a mark on the spoke, set my timer but NOW, it will NOT spin. It merely makes those three grunt attempts at movement. It does spin freely by hand.


Well, here's a game changer! I was suspecting this from the beginning but the fact that the motor was able to run the 50 RPM test threw me. Your latest report clears this up nicely. You need the motor and motor control board upgrade kit ==> Motor and Control Module

#11 Vaughnstermon

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 04:38 PM

Thanks again for all of your help!
I have ordered the parts that you have specified.
Thanks as well to the wonderful staff that is able to process and ship orders the same day!
I will know tomorrow (yes, Saturday delivery), if this resolves the problem.

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 05:27 PM

Keep us posted!

#13 Vaughnstermon

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 01:42 PM

Installed the motor and control board yesterday,
This indeed fixed the problem, thanks again!

#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 01:45 PM

That's what we like to hear! Good work!

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