Had a power surge that burned up 4 point-of-use surge protectors, 5 GFI's, an electronic fan switch, and my whole house surge protector. Now my washer does not work - no power, no lights, dead.
Question is - where do I start looking? Of course there are loads of susceptible electronics in there - but where to start?
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Power surge Frigidaire FAFW3511KWO front load washer
Started by Learning2, Sep 10 2011 06:16 AM
Power surge
8 replies to this topic
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#2
RegUS_PatOff
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Sensei
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Posted 10 September 2011 - 07:12 AM
maybe Home Depot... where do I start looking?
the main Control Board may be bad, but hopefully not the Motor Controller ...
Take a look, seems there'll be visual evidence ...
.
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
#3
Learning2
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- Grasshopper
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Ikkō-ikki
Posted 12 September 2011 - 07:59 AM
OK - I see a burn mark on the control board right where the 120V line plugs in. So I will replace that. Can you speculate on whether that is as far as the damage goes or do I just have to try it out?
And is there a risk of burning out the new control board when I install it and then try to start the machine if something downstream is bad?
Thanks. I know this calls for speculation but I will take your expert opinion gladly.
And is there a risk of burning out the new control board when I install it and then try to start the machine if something downstream is bad?
Thanks. I know this calls for speculation but I will take your expert opinion gladly.
#4
Budget Appliance Repair
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Sensei
Posted 13 September 2011 - 05:31 AM
The main controller would be the first thing hit with a surge, if the machine wasn't running the motor controller shouldn't have been affected. If the motor controller did get taken out at the same time, I've never seen a bad motor controller take out the main control board so if you install a new main control board and for some reason the motor controller is bad it shouldn't take out the new main control board.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
#5
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:43 AM
OK - I see a burn mark on the control board right where the 120V line plugs in.
Pictures, pictures!
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#6
Learning2
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Ikkō-ikki
Posted 13 September 2011 - 08:52 AM
The burn mark was easy to see. No major disassembly required beyond what the Repair Clinic video clearly showed.
http://www.repaircli...irHelpVideoTabs
It was right where the green plug with black and white wires enter (green plug).
http://www.repaircli...irHelpVideoTabs
It was right where the green plug with black and white wires enter (green plug).
Attached Files
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IMG_3744_3.jpg 36.91KB
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IMG_3740_3.jpg 51.66KB
16 downloads
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#7
Learning2
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Ikkō-ikki
Posted 25 September 2011 - 06:01 PM
OK - finally finished the repair. Takes a while when you replace one electronic component at a time. The surge knocked out
1. main control board ($130)
2. user interface board ($110)
3. pressure switch / sensor ($45) - plugs into the control board
The surge was caused by an open neutral - an underground cable let go. Thus I got 240v on half of the panel - including the washer.
Now my washer plugs into a high quality surge supressor which in turn plugs into a GFCI. I also have a whole house surge protector (which fried). The surge knocked out 6 GFCIs and 3 high quality point-of-use surge supressors. These items saved all my other electronics so I feel a little better my washer is now protected also.
Tip of the week: BE SURE YOUR DRAIN HOSE DOES NOT WORK ITS WAY LOOSE as you slide the washer in / out many times making these step-wise repairs. It was wired down but not enough to handle so many in / outs. My house survived Hurricane Irene but not a loose drain hose!
IMG_3865.jpg 72.76KB
7 downloads
1. main control board ($130)
2. user interface board ($110)
3. pressure switch / sensor ($45) - plugs into the control board
The surge was caused by an open neutral - an underground cable let go. Thus I got 240v on half of the panel - including the washer.
Now my washer plugs into a high quality surge supressor which in turn plugs into a GFCI. I also have a whole house surge protector (which fried). The surge knocked out 6 GFCIs and 3 high quality point-of-use surge supressors. These items saved all my other electronics so I feel a little better my washer is now protected also.
Tip of the week: BE SURE YOUR DRAIN HOSE DOES NOT WORK ITS WAY LOOSE as you slide the washer in / out many times making these step-wise repairs. It was wired down but not enough to handle so many in / outs. My house survived Hurricane Irene but not a loose drain hose!
IMG_3865.jpg 72.76KB
7 downloads
- Samurai Appliance Repair Man and kdog like this
#8
RegUS_PatOff
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Posted 25 September 2011 - 06:25 PM
nothing will prevent damage from a disconnected Neutral ..
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.
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
#9
kdog
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Posted 25 September 2011 - 06:48 PM
Nice pics and Thanks for that follow-up; I find that proper use of the candycane on the drainhose pervents "accidental fallout"
http://www.repaircli...ber=FAFW3511KW0
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