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Viking Range Repair/Problem Model VGIC367-4Q


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20 replies to this topic

#1 fastss396man

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 08:20 PM

Hello, my first question and or use of yor forum... Thanks in advance for your help...

My wife and I purchased this Viking Range back in 05' Have had some of the usual problems regarding the burners and igniters.

My wife has been complaining for the last week or so that every thing is taking much longer to cook/bake than it used too. Said she didn't think the oven was getting up to temp?

New problem now: Oven will not operate at selected temperature. Tested and noted today...

Set oven temp at 400* actual temp reached and maintained was aprox 367*

Set oven temp at 350* actual temp reached and maintained was aprox 330*

Test was done using a digital temp gauge (designed for outdoor smoker) with probe inside oven. Let oven door closed for 20 to 30 minuets.

Any and all help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Brian

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#2 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 08:27 PM

Temps don't sound that far off.. sounds like yer ignitors are getting weak...classic symptoms are slow ignition and failure to maintain temp...
do you have an amprobe or meter with an amp clamp?...
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#3 fastss396man

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 07:33 AM

Temps don't sound that far off.. sounds like yer ignitors are getting weak...classic symptoms are slow ignition and failure to maintain temp...
do you have an amprobe or meter with an amp clamp?...

No amprobe or amp clamp meter...

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 09:22 AM

yes, for a few extra bucks over the yellow one ...
.

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#5 fastss396man

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 09:34 AM

As soon as I get it I'll post back here for continued assistance.
Thanks!

#6 fastss396man

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 02:17 PM

Ok guys... Picked up the meter, the reccomended #95683 while I was out for lunch this afternoon. I'm back to work again until about 8p. So what will be the next plan of attack. I'm fairly handy and mechanically inclined. I seldom have a service man to the house for anything. And have a garage full of tools. And one new "Amp Clamp Multimeter" to add. I know my wife will be impressed! I'll need to know how to access which ever area of the oven and what to do next, including the use of the Amp portion of the meter. I may be able to do a bit this evening or it may be tomorrow before I get started. Again thanks in advance.

Brian

#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 02:26 PM

use "clamp" around one of the wires of the Ignitor..
May be able to get access from the rear of the Range.
When the Oven is turned ON, measure the AMPs..
Within about 60 seconds, the reading should rise to about 3.0 A
Post the results
.

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#8 fastss396man

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 03:12 PM

Do I need to remove any panels from the rear of the range? And then what am I looking for regarding the wires to the igniter? On the back? Underneith? Thanks

#9 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 03:51 PM

Stop! Most likely, ignitors are accessed from the front.
see the bottom panel, goes from side to side, 4-6" tall? Remove 1 screw on the top of each side,kind of in the door jamb area and hinge this panel down...should have access to igniter wires, safety valves etc.
from there u can clamp around one wire feeding the glow bar (or bars)...
should be @least 3.3a...if not, there is the problem.
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#10 fastss396man

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 03:58 PM

Ok, sounds good and much easier than pulling the stove out for now. Thanks for the detailed tip on where to locate the panel screws. I'll post back as soon as I get that reading for you.

#11 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 04:47 PM

no need to post back with readings ...if they are less than the required 3.3 amps, go ahead and replace 'um...
if you look over on fixitnow.com, i believe the boss just blogged about this exact topic, specifically about how viking glow bars SUCK and are disgustingly expensive while all the while, regular maytag glow bars are less costly and will work just the same!
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 06:19 PM

Another money-saving tip: don't use Viking ignitors. They cost three times more than the much higher quality ignitor in the Maytag Universal kit. And Viking ignitors suck. Vigorously.

Maytag Universal Ignitor Kit => Hot Surface Glow Bar Igniter

#13 fastss396man

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 08:26 PM

Ok guys, pulled door and panel off and checked igniter read outs one of the oven igniters was well below 3.3A (in the 2's) and I understand regardless I should replace both. While I had the oven door off I decided to also check the infared broiler igniter and it read less than 2A. May I assume it is the same type of igniter and shouold also read a minimum od 3.3A? And I also have a grill on top I will be checking it too. Should all read a min of 3.3A? Then how do I access the broiler igniter for R and R looks like the wires go through to the back of the oven... And then also how do I access the grill igniter for R and R? It looks like I should just order 4 igniters and replace them all??? Are they all the same so I can purchase 4 of the Maytag Universal units? Thanks so much for all of your help and I really like my new Clamp Amp meter I can add to my tool box!

#14 fastss396man

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 08:31 PM

P.S. I just noticed the grill on top does not use one of these type of igniters and that it uses a spark type igniter. So will still need some help with specs and R &R of the broiler igniter. Thanks, Looks like I may only need to order 3???

#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 09:09 PM

... it read less than 2A.

... did you wait 60 seconds ?
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#16 fastss396man

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:31 AM

Yes, at 60 secs:
Oven Igniter #1 @ 3.16A
Oven Igniter #2 @ 2.82A
Broiler Igniter @ 2.16A

#17 fastss396man

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 09:20 AM

Also what about these igniters...
GE WB2X9998 3.2 - 3.6A
Norton 501A
I don't know if they are made in the USA I saw a GE Box online and the tage on the front had USA printed on it.

#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 07:55 AM

Not nearly as nice a kit as the Maytag universal kit. Doesn't include as many connectors. And it's GE. :yucky:

#19 fastss396man

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 08:53 AM

Thanks, already ordered the Maytag igniters first thing this a.m. For a couple of bucks more I took your original advice/recommendation.

Will contribute to the beer fund in just a few minuets!!!

#20 fastss396man

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Posted 17 September 2011 - 01:55 PM

Good news to report back... New igniters arrived yesterday, installed, took my time and took less than half an hour. Oven is now firing up very quickly as it should. Problem fixed and another thanks to all who offered their help. Glad I was able to contribute to the beer fund and hope you all will be here next time I need you. And after reading your opinion of the quality of Viking ranges in FAQs I may be back sooner than I wish. Thought I was buying the best of the best when I purchased the Viking range but have allready had more repairs on this $4,000 range in 5 or 6 years than I had the previous 20 years on my old, preowned $150 stove??? Go figure. Have agreat weekend.

Brian




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