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GE top freeze TBX20PG Freezer PRETTY cold, refrigerator warm


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7 replies to this topic

#1 gmatov

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 09:35 PM

I have a 'fridge about 23 years old, TBX20PG, that the cool compartment is in the 50s, freezer, almost empty since I moved everything to the upright freezer in the basement, now down to about 25 since I put it back together to check the defrost tube. THOUGHT it was bad as the end connectors are loose, but continuity says it is good. (That's good, they cost about 82 bucks.) Also, the coils are almost frostless, although that was only after about half an hour of operation.

Defrost timer behind the toe plate/grille, turned to click in. 'Fridge shut down, came back on after 15 or 30 minutes, I didn't time it, but it has about 24 clicks from on to off, so I think 6 hour cycle, 15 minutes per click. I THINK it is OK.

Only other thing I can surmise is low R22, or flap on duct between freezer and cooler is not opening, set to MAX, and very little airflow. Next to be disassembled.

Had to have the compressor replaced in the first year under warranty. Possible low coolant? IS there a charging port on these things, or does one have to be soldered in? I have R22, I have silver solder(boy, do I?), I even have Schroeder charge fittings.

I was ready to go buy a new one, due to 82 for heater, 37 for timer, about 1/4 the price of a new similar 'fridge, but at my age, retired some years, I don't need an up to date, solid state monstrosity, had headaches with my daughter's LG or whatever that computerized side by side was.

Wish they still made Servels. I'd buy one in a minute!

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#2 gmatov

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 09:39 PM

gmatov, again, some combination of keys made a submission, I don't know what.

BUT, I don't know, CAN the flap between the freezer and the cooler break or become inoperative? It makes no difference whether it be 1 or 9.

I'll find out, tomorrow, though the parts houses say that part is unavailable.

Cheers,

George

#3 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 04:27 AM

Set controls to middle setting and make sure your condenser coils are clean. Take freezer temp again after a couple of hours. Take and provide us with a picture of your evap coils for frost pattern diagnosis. If evap fan running and compressor running and your temp is still 25 in the freezer, based upon the previous work, it's a good chance you have a sealed system failure and a lesser chance you have a cold control failure. You can rule out cold control issue by disconnecting and jumping the two wires (not the ground!) connected to the cold control. Make sure your defrost timer is no where near defrost cycle. This should continually operate the compressor and fans. If your freezer temps drop to below 11 degrees, then switch out your cold control and repair any damper issues. If above 11, sealed system/compressor issue but would like to check out frost pattern on evap to be sure.
Appliantology is, however appliances are not, an exact science for I know there are a few refrigerators that actually hate me.

The simplest explanation is most likely the correct and least expensive one, unless it's your compressor or motherboard" Occam as an appliantologist

"When you have eliminated all the impossible, whatever remains, however implausible, must be the logic truth; unless it's your compressor or motherboard." Mr. Spock as an appliantologist

"I think, therefore I have no earthly idea why this thing is not working...I got nothin'...". Rumored to have been uttered by a frustrated Descartes while diagnosing his GE Profile.

#4 gmatov

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 08:45 PM

Sho' Nuff.

Thanks for the reply. I did clean the condensor, WOW!!, the hair on that thing! The condensor fan is running.

I pulled the back panel off again, and the frost pattern is excellent, thin coat overall. One thing I did do was run a doubled length of coax up the duct from the freezer to the cool section. I felt no obstruction..

On the other hand, the cooler is coming down to 40 or less, and the back wall, at least, of the freezer is down to minus degrees.

The only other thing I did is switch off the jamb heaters, the anti sweats.

I'll let you know tomorrow if it looks like it is back in operation.

I have one in the basement that is about 50 years old. Still keeps my beer cold. Manual defrost. I cannot open the freezer, it is frozen solid. I don't want to unplug it for a week or more to thaw, since I need it for the beer. Since I have an upright freezer, I don't need that little freezer, anyway.

Thanks for the help.

George

#5 AppGuy

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 10:10 AM

if you had the compressor replaced there HAS to be a tap on it. but being R22, good luck on getting freon unless you use hotshot or something similar. But like said if there is a thin frost pattern over the hole evap then seal system is probably not issue unless compressor is shutting down prematurely. One thing I have seen on occasion is an evap fan not spinning fast enough.

#6 gmatov

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 08:10 PM

Kohai,

As said above, I have a 30# bottle of 22, about 25 left. I was talking to my cousin tonight, and one of her tenants, who was painting her living room, and is semi-retired from HVAC told me that it should have a fill port on the compressor, a rather large tube with a unique fitting, which he will allow me to use to charge, if necessary.

He also said it should use 12, from the late '80's, but, no HVAC man myself, Machinery Repairman instead, I thought it took 22. I don't know the weight of the charge, which doesn't help me, as I don't have equipment to suck it down and refill to spec, nor do I know the low side pressure spec. I gotta lay on the floor and see if I can read that damned little label under the bottom hinge, see what's on it, might have specs there.

I have minus 10 air blowing out the grill into the freezer, I have 10 degrees porting into the cool side.

I got home this evening to find it on defrost and cool side thermometer at near 60, food, with the infrared, still about 40. 2 beers left from last night(Classic Lager, 12.50 a case, tax included, and they all taste like they should be poured back into the horse, so why pay more?) second one now going down and noncontact thermometer says they are 40 F, cool enough to drink.

I gotta replace that 'fridge thermometer, it's probably as old as half the posters here, I think about 38 years.

I think I should go look for a new one. If, in the end, I gotta get a tech in, it's a 1/4 or so the cost of a replacement, and the local store I buy my appliances deliver, install and remove the old. Price is not so much higher, considering the box stores more than the difference in delivery fee, and most do not haul off the old.

Thanks for the replies.

George

#7 kdog

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 02:07 AM

That system will NOT be R-22, it is definitely R-12
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#8 gmatov

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 08:44 PM

kdog,

Thanks for that. Doesn't look like it need a charge. Running fine, now.

Full garbage can of spoiled meats and vegetables at the roadside, right now to be hauled away in the morning. But there was room in the basement fridge for my beer.

Thanks to all. I have NO idea what is making it work, now. I didn't do anything that I can think of that should make it work.

Mystery to me.

George




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