30 replies to this topic

[Husker71]

I apologize but I do not have my model number with me right, my question is more a generic one. I was cleaning my dryer the other day, had it taken apart and had removed the lint chute to clean it out. I noticed a lot of lint and hair build up around the chute foam seal and was carefully pulling debris off of the foam seal when a portion of the seal tore away. This is the large opening at the top of the chute, not the fan end. I'm concerned that the seal may now be compromised and not be forming as tight of a seal as it was before. I'd like to find a local parts dealer to get a replacement or order online (will take longer) but a thought occurred to me, is it possible to use a simple weather stripping of similar size and thickness from the hardware store as a possible quick alternative that would work just as well? Thanks!

[kdog]

All dryers have different blower set ups - post the BRAND and MODEL NUMBER

[Husker71]

Sorry, kdog, finally got it. It's a Whirlpool LEQ9858LW0

[kdog]

http://www.repaircli...mber=LEQ9858LW0

 

[Husker71]

Thanks kdog. I appreciate the link. I was able to find that seal online and locally actually but my question was whether or not some weathering stripping would work instead. It's moot though. Right now I am having issues with very long drying times with my dryer, which I have learned is typically attributed to air flow and clogged transition and external exhaust pipe. I had the lint chute removed to clean it and thought I tore away a piece of the seal but it turns out I did not and only pulled away part of the seal from the drum but tonight was able to repair it with adhesive and so the seal is fine. I have completely cleaned out my dryer from the entire lint chute, around the fan, out the exhaust exit, the transition pipe and the entire length of the exhaust vent to the outside, everything is clean as a whistle. I also replaced the heating coil. I plan to do some laundry this weekend to see if all is well. If I still have the problem I plan to remove the exhaust pipe completely and do a load with no exhaust pipe and see if that helps to eliminate the exhaust vent as the problem. Since I have replaced the heating coil I will then likely move on to the thermostat and sensors but I will need some guidance with that and i will make another post. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my post.

[kdog]

If you require further advice, simply post again in this same topic as background info follows the appliance

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

...i will make another post. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my post.

If you require further advice, simply post again in this same topic as background info follows the appliance

Wisdom! Let us attend!

[Husker71]

If it helps to change the title of my post to better reflect my problems (long drying times), please do so, thanks.

NEW DEVELOPMENT! Serious help needed here! As stated a couple posts ago I have been battling long drying times with my dryer and have done a few things to try and figure the problem out and am in the middle of troubleshooting. Entire chain of exhaust and lint chute are completely clean from inside the dryer to the exit outside my house and have put a new heating coil in. I have used the dryer a few times since doing this but still troubleshooting. Yesterday I ran a load of laundry but my results are still inconclusive HOWEVER today we were doing a load of laundry and when we opened the dryer to put the clothes in heat was radiating out of the dryer big time and it hadn't been used for 24 hours. I put my hand up next to the heat intake inside the drum and it's hotter than hell. It's like the coils are on and never shut off! So this is a major turn of events, I fear I'm going to have a fire. Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks!

[Husker71]

I might add when we opened the dryer and felt the radiating heat that there was a slight burning smell too.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

Check / clean the Dryer Vent

Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

 

[Husker71]

HOLD UP! Sorry, here is more information and clarification. My wife and I are both involved in trying to figure this out and she didn't quite explain to me the current situation before I posted the above. Wish you could edit posts here. Ok, apparently she was moving the completed load of laundry just washed out of the washer into the dryer. She had the dryer door open and started to transfer the laundry and moved the dial on the dryer to Auto and High Heat. She didn't notice any heat or burning smell at this time. It was as she started loading the dryer that suddenly she could smell and feel the heat, she then called me over and I could smell and feel it too and stuck my hand up by the heat intake inside the drum and there was a lot of heat. In my last post I said I thought maybe the coils had been on since the last load we did 24 hours ago but I think if the coils had been on for the last 24 hours we would have noticed the smell and heat as the dryer is near a high traffic area. So it's almost as if the heat coils started heating after my wife moved the dial to prepare the dryer for heating and as we were loading it. I thought the coils come on once you hit START on the dryer. Sorry for the confusion, this is clarification of my last two posts in this thread. So I'm still troubleshooting long drying times but now there is this strange thing happening. Thanks!!

[Husker71]

RegUS_PatOff, thanks. I've seen your post about troubleshooting long drying times, I appreciate that and like I said I am still in the middle of going through all the steps. It's this recent development that has me curious and it kind of scares me a little. In regard to your list of items here if where I am at:

1) Vent is rigid metal. I fully cleaned it out from end to end.
2) Short, flexible metal transition vent. NOT crimped at all, NO screws. I fully cleaned it out from end to end.

Right now the airflow at the vent exit at the back of the house is excellent. I still need to disconnect the vent from the dryer and check the airflow there. However, since I see excellent airflow from the vent exiting the house and since I cleaned the living hell out of the vent from the lint chute all the way to the exit that seems moot at this point. Next step is to measure the temperature of the heat, just haven;t done it yet. Again, still confused at the why the heat coils came on when my wife turned the dial to Auto dry and we hadn't yet started the dyer. Thanks!

[Husker71]

Yet again another update. Just checked the dryer 10 minutes in on a new load and am getting no heat at all now. So whole new situation now, no heat at all, heat is gone.

[RegUS_PatOff]

grasshoppers can't edit posts
Become an Apprentice Appliantologist and Enjoy Special Perks
Heater Element shouldn't be powered without Drum Motor turning
unless the Element is partially shorted to ground
(or the Motor Centrifugal Switch is shorted)
If so, the Element will over-heat and (should) blow one of the Thermal devices

Edited by RegUS_PatOff, 25 September 2011 - 05:07 PM.

[Husker71]

Thanks again. Does the fact the heat is completely gone now point to one of those problems?

[RegUS_PatOff]

yes..
also, edited my previous post to "shouldn't" be powered

[Husker71]

Ok, just took the panel off back of the dryer, found the thermal fuse on the blower cover, removed it and bypassed it (connected the two wires). turned the dryer on (times drying, high heat) and no heat, so thermal fuse must be ok. I would like to test the coil, even though it's brand new, but don't have my meter with me. I still have the old one and could swap it out quick. How about the thermal cut off?

[Husker71]

Still had the old coils because I was a newb/grasshopper and figured when I was getting long drying times it might be the coil and first thing I did was buy a new one and out that in but kept the old one just in case I was wrong. So I just swapped in the old one and still no heat. So thermal fuse is fine and coil is fine, but no heat. Again, i see this unit has a thermal cut off, could that be it?? Thanks.

[Husker71]

Since the coil is ok and thermal fuse is ok could it be one of the following?

- Cycle Thermostat
- Thermal Cut-Off
- High Limit Thermostat

You guys are experts, any of those likely not the culprit? Can each of these be tested? Sorry, total newb, if they can be tested, how so? I can get an ohm meter tomorrow if that would work.

[kdog]

don't have my meter with me.

Pretty much a "must-have" when checking such devices. First up alway's disconnect vent for a cycle to see if issue goes away, no matter how good you think the vent looks - be sure to open up a nearby window when doing so to allow air exchange. This takes the Vent out of the equation and provides access to output heat. Remove rear panel from Dryer and (Unplug) and hook up meter leads to element terminals and place the meter where you can read it and leave it connected while you test various things (selecting cycle, pushing start button etc) there is then no question whether the element should be getting hot then. If your element gets power with the Dryer off or not running you should not leave the unit plugged in (turn off breaker)