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Husker71

Whirlpool LEQ9858LW0 Dryer lint chute seal replacement?

31 posts in this topic

I apologize but I do not have my model number with me right, my question is more a generic one. I was cleaning my dryer the other day, had it taken apart and had removed the lint chute to clean it out. I noticed a lot of lint and hair build up around the chute foam seal and was carefully pulling debris off of the foam seal when a portion of the seal tore away. This is the large opening at the top of the chute, not the fan end. I'm concerned that the seal may now be compromised and not be forming as tight of a seal as it was before. I'd like to find a local parts dealer to get a replacement or order online (will take longer) but a thought occurred to me, is it possible to use a simple weather stripping of similar size and thickness from the hardware store as a possible quick alternative that would work just as well? Thanks!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

All dryers have different blower set ups - post the BRAND and MODEL NUMBER

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Sorry, kdog, finally got it. It's a Whirlpool LEQ9858LW0

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Thanks kdog. I appreciate the link. I was able to find that seal online and locally actually but my question was whether or not some weathering stripping would work instead. It's moot though. Right now I am having issues with very long drying times with my dryer, which I have learned is typically attributed to air flow and clogged transition and external exhaust pipe. I had the lint chute removed to clean it and thought I tore away a piece of the seal but it turns out I did not and only pulled away part of the seal from the drum but tonight was able to repair it with adhesive and so the seal is fine. I have completely cleaned out my dryer from the entire lint chute, around the fan, out the exhaust exit, the transition pipe and the entire length of the exhaust vent to the outside, everything is clean as a whistle. I also replaced the heating coil. I plan to do some laundry this weekend to see if all is well. If I still have the problem I plan to remove the exhaust pipe completely and do a load with no exhaust pipe and see if that helps to eliminate the exhaust vent as the problem. Since I have replaced the heating coil I will then likely move on to the thermostat and sensors but I will need some guidance with that and i will make another post. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my post.

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If you require further advice, simply post again in this same topic as background info follows the appliance

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...i will make another post. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my post.

If you require further advice, simply post again in this same topic as background info follows the appliance

Wisdom! Let us attend!

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If it helps to change the title of my post to better reflect my problems (long drying times), please do so, thanks.

NEW DEVELOPMENT! Serious help needed here! As stated a couple posts ago I have been battling long drying times with my dryer and have done a few things to try and figure the problem out and am in the middle of troubleshooting. Entire chain of exhaust and lint chute are completely clean from inside the dryer to the exit outside my house and have put a new heating coil in. I have used the dryer a few times since doing this but still troubleshooting. Yesterday I ran a load of laundry but my results are still inconclusive HOWEVER today we were doing a load of laundry and when we opened the dryer to put the clothes in heat was radiating out of the dryer big time and it hadn't been used for 24 hours. I put my hand up next to the heat intake inside the drum and it's hotter than hell. It's like the coils are on and never shut off! So this is a major turn of events, I fear I'm going to have a fire. Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks!

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I might add when we opened the dryer and felt the radiating heat that there was a slight burning smell too.

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Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

Check / clean the Dryer Vent

Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

 

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HOLD UP! Sorry, here is more information and clarification. My wife and I are both involved in trying to figure this out and she didn't quite explain to me the current situation before I posted the above. Wish you could edit posts here. Ok, apparently she was moving the completed load of laundry just washed out of the washer into the dryer. She had the dryer door open and started to transfer the laundry and moved the dial on the dryer to Auto and High Heat. She didn't notice any heat or burning smell at this time. It was as she started loading the dryer that suddenly she could smell and feel the heat, she then called me over and I could smell and feel it too and stuck my hand up by the heat intake inside the drum and there was a lot of heat. In my last post I said I thought maybe the coils had been on since the last load we did 24 hours ago but I think if the coils had been on for the last 24 hours we would have noticed the smell and heat as the dryer is near a high traffic area. So it's almost as if the heat coils started heating after my wife moved the dial to prepare the dryer for heating and as we were loading it. I thought the coils come on once you hit START on the dryer. Sorry for the confusion, this is clarification of my last two posts in this thread. So I'm still troubleshooting long drying times but now there is this strange thing happening. Thanks!!

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RegUS_PatOff, thanks. I've seen your post about troubleshooting long drying times, I appreciate that and like I said I am still in the middle of going through all the steps. It's this recent development that has me curious and it kind of scares me a little. In regard to your list of items here if where I am at:

1) Vent is rigid metal. I fully cleaned it out from end to end.

2) Short, flexible metal transition vent. NOT crimped at all, NO screws. I fully cleaned it out from end to end.

Right now the airflow at the vent exit at the back of the house is excellent. I still need to disconnect the vent from the dryer and check the airflow there. However, since I see excellent airflow from the vent exiting the house and since I cleaned the living hell out of the vent from the lint chute all the way to the exit that seems moot at this point. Next step is to measure the temperature of the heat, just haven;t done it yet. Again, still confused at the why the heat coils came on when my wife turned the dial to Auto dry and we hadn't yet started the dyer. Thanks!

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Yet again another update. Just checked the dryer 10 minutes in on a new load and am getting no heat at all now. So whole new situation now, no heat at all, heat is gone.

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grasshoppers can't edit posts

Become an Apprentice Appliantologist and Enjoy Special Perks

Heater Element shouldn't be powered without Drum Motor turning

unless the Element is partially shorted to ground

(or the Motor Centrifugal Switch is shorted)

If so, the Element will over-heat and (should) blow one of the Thermal devices

Edited by RegUS_PatOff

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Thanks again. Does the fact the heat is completely gone now point to one of those problems?

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yes..

also, edited my previous post to "shouldn't" be powered

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Ok, just took the panel off back of the dryer, found the thermal fuse on the blower cover, removed it and bypassed it (connected the two wires). turned the dryer on (times drying, high heat) and no heat, so thermal fuse must be ok. I would like to test the coil, even though it's brand new, but don't have my meter with me. I still have the old one and could swap it out quick. How about the thermal cut off?

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Still had the old coils because I was a newb/grasshopper and figured when I was getting long drying times it might be the coil and first thing I did was buy a new one and out that in but kept the old one just in case I was wrong. So I just swapped in the old one and still no heat. So thermal fuse is fine and coil is fine, but no heat. Again, i see this unit has a thermal cut off, could that be it?? Thanks.

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Since the coil is ok and thermal fuse is ok could it be one of the following?

- Cycle Thermostat

- Thermal Cut-Off

- High Limit Thermostat

You guys are experts, any of those likely not the culprit? Can each of these be tested? Sorry, total newb, if they can be tested, how so? I can get an ohm meter tomorrow if that would work.

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don't have my meter with me.

Pretty much a "must-have" when checking such devices. First up alway's disconnect vent for a cycle to see if issue goes away, no matter how good you think the vent looks - be sure to open up a nearby window when doing so to allow air exchange. This takes the Vent out of the equation and provides access to output heat. Remove rear panel from Dryer and (Unplug) and hook up meter leads to element terminals and place the meter where you can read it and leave it connected while you test various things (selecting cycle, pushing start button etc) there is then no question whether the element should be getting hot then. If your element gets power with the Dryer off or not running you should not leave the unit plugged in (turn off breaker)

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... could it be one of the following?
- Cycle Thermostat
- Thermal Cut-Off
- High Limit Thermostat

... Can each of these be tested?
... I can get an ohm meter tomorrow if that would work.
1) yes
2) yes
3) yes
if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
they have these Meters
sometimes on sale for $ 1.99 w/ battery



image_2304.jpg

image_4001.jpg

image_2431.jpg

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UPDATE. Thanks, kdog. Yes, for these latest tests, I removed the vent from the dryer and airflow is really good but no heat at all.

I think I am almost there, and if you can hang with me I would appreciate the help! This may be long and I apologize.

Ok, I picked up a continuity tester tonight as I really want to get the part tomorrow if it is a part I need. First off, get this. Like I explained earlier, being a newb, the first thing I thought of when the dryer was taking forever to dry things was the heating coil so I ordered a new coil without even knowing I could test it to see if it was bad, I installed it and while it worked we still had the same long drying times problem. I kept the old one just in case it was ok. Tonight, as part of the troubleshooting, I swapped out the coil for the old one and still no heat. Then after getting the tester I was testing the new coil for continuity and could not get positive continuity. I then noticed that a portion of the coil wire from one of the terminals going to the coil was missing!! I noticed black on the metal near where the coil was gone, so the wire just disintegrated! So the incident today where I had heat in the dryer but hadn't been using it I am assume is related to this somehow. Here is my suspicion. When I installed the new coil last week I noticed that the leg of the Hight Limit Thermostat (High Limit Thermostat) that goes over the one terminal on the coil was kind of loose and I tried like hell to crimp the damn thing on with a needle nose but it never felt tight. I wonder if that loose connection caused a short?

Anyhow, I then tested the old coil for continuity and it tested fine so I put it back in the dryer. I also crimped that connector on the High Limit Thermostat before putting in on the terminal and it is rock solid tight now.

I then test for continuity for the following:

Thermal Fuse: tested fine.

Hight-Limit Thermostat: tested fine.

Thermal Cut-off: Failed, could not get continuity.

Cycle Thermostat: I did get continuity on two legs but not the other two, however I do not know if I am testing correctly. Here is a link to the Cycle Thermostat: Cycling Thermostat Now, I got continuity on the two larger terminals which in that picture is the two terminals on the top and bottom (harder to see because they are pointing toward the viewer), but the other two, smaller brass colored terminals on the left and right toward the center, I did not get continuity but I don't really understand what those terminals are and if they should even give you positive continuity. Anybody know?

All that said, the Thermal Cut-Off failed to give me continuity. Could that be the problem here? Any chance that part was damaged when the short on the coil happened? Can a failing Thermal Cut-Off cause longer drying times?

Thanks so much!!

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Removed competitor part links.

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Good Work! yes. the TCO was opened by the grounded element and that's why you got heat with the dryer off - Normally the TCO replacement comes with a new hi-limit stat as it should have opened first, also the replacement hi-limit does away with that cheesy connection that gave you grief and is replaced with a good old piece of wire. Improper air flow is often at the root of these issues so I would still recommend a test drive sans exhaust vent before you pack everything away

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse-and-High-Limit-Thermostat/279816/2651?modelNumber=LEQ9858LW0

 


00630454.jpg

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... the one terminal on the coil was kind of loose

... Cycle Thermostat: I did get continuity on two legs but not the other two

1) loose or dirty connections will cause heat and may damage the Connector or Wires

2) normal, but will show a certain resistance usng an OHM meter

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Thanks kdog and RegUS_PatOff, I really appreciate the help and sticking with me. I just picked up a Thermal Cut Off kit locally (really need to get some laundry done and willing to pay $10 more to have it NOW) and am going to install it in a couple hours. I've figured out exactly how to do the install (thankfully I do NOT have the configuration requiring the modification of the jumper wire to accommodate a third wire). I will report back how it goes after that.

There is a chance I am still not out of the woods yet, as you both elude to. I believe the element short, which caused the thermal cut off to fail, could be a separate issue created since installing the new, but now destroyed, heating element (thankfully I only paid $25 delivered for it) but may still have an issue with longer drying times due to yet another undiscovered problem. QUESTION for you guys on measuring the resistance of the Cycle Thermostat with an OHM meter. I have an OHM meter with me right now and can measure that when I install the cut off kit in a couple hours, can you guys tell me how to measure that? What terminals do I measure and what setting do I use on my meter? I have an older Micronta analog meter kind of like the one at this link, what setting do I set the meter to? http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/radio_shac_micronta_multimeter_22_21.html Thanks!!!

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