Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Fisher Paykel GWL10 drains but will not spin


  • Please log in to reply
14 replies to this topic

#1 rbishop967

rbishop967

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 24 September 2011 - 12:10 PM

I have a Fisher Paykel GWL10 washer, a few days ago it would not go to the spin cycle.
After researching the possibles I tested the lid switch (it is working).
The water is effectively and rapidly pumping out (not clogged).
The agitator runs both directions when agitating (I saw a post that said sometimes the motor will burn out in one direction only? - which would cause the spin not to function).
The out of balance sensor seems to be functioning correctly.
The diverter valve was changed about 2 months ago.

After checking above points, I ran a small load (with no detergent) to see if it was spinning between wash and rinse cycles. (Testing the motor function).
When it got to the rinse cycle it stopped giving the "high suds" type error.

Any suggestions of where to look next?

Thanks,

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 DADoESTX

DADoESTX

    Kohai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Iced tea with a spike of earl grey

Posted 24 September 2011 - 02:31 PM

Oversuds = first rinse or final spin light flashing along with alert beeps, yes? Is there evidence of oversudsing?

Access diagnostic mode to check what other fault code may have occurred: With power off, press/hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and the panel activates. Release the buttons. Press Spin Speed Up or Down repeatedly as needed until BOTH the Hold and Slow spin lights are on. Add the binary code as per which cycle progress lights are lit from left to right: 128, 64, 32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1

Check if the basket is stuck on the drive shaft or the clutch is jammed. Lift upwards on the basket, it should slip up/down on the shaft by about 3/8".

#3 rbishop967

rbishop967

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 24 September 2011 - 02:56 PM

No suds are present - (no detergent in the load)
It beeps as when first plugged in / powered up when it gets to rinse cycle - then does nothing else.
No diagnostic coding or fault code present - none of the cycle progess lights are on.
The basket does float- though it is not loose enough to remove from the shaft (about 3/8 to 1/2 inch).
I pulled the agitator out and the water below the drum is only present in the small "tank" at the bottom of the outer drum.

How does it detect "suds level?" - The pump continues to run even when virtually all the water has been pumped out.
Does it register the length of time it pumps to determine it? Is the a water level sensor in the bottom of the drum that may need changed out?
(As I was unable to remove the inner drum I was unable to see into the 'holding tank.'

#4 DADoESTX

DADoESTX

    Kohai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Iced tea with a spike of earl grey

Posted 24 September 2011 - 07:42 PM

What happens if you set it directly to either the rinse phase or the final spin with no clothes? There's no functional difference between the after-wash drain/spin and the final drain/spin.

The pump should run throughout the first spin period and at various times during the shower rinse period ... or until spin stops to fill for an agitated rinse. It stops a few mins into the final spin, then starts again at the end when spin decelerates.

Water level is sensed by an air cup integral to the tub (small opening at the bottom side) with a tube/hose running from there to a pressure sensor on the control board in the console. Air trapped in the hose exerts pressure on the sensor as the water level rises. Drain time is variable per when the pressure reading is cleared.

When the tub fills with water (for either agitated wash or rinse), air caught beneath the inner basket causes it to float upward to disengage from the clutch cog so the agitator can oscillate without the tub also turning. When the water drains, the basket drops back down to engage the cog. Toward the end of drain, the motor pulses forward and back a few times to help it engage and also to sense by rotational inertia that it has engaged.

I don't know how oversudsing is sensed. Possibly by excess torque on the basket due to suds "drag" during spin ... or by pressure from suds on the water level sensor.

#5 rbishop967

rbishop967

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 24 September 2011 - 09:58 PM

On either spin (between wash/rinse) and final spin - it appears to be doing as you say - engaging the drum (small oscillating movements) and it sounds as if the pump is running during this time (though it could be the main motor running). I will see if I can test out the water sensor ; verify the hose is connected- not clogged etc.
The inner drum is floating and re-engaging (when floating it has free motion independant of the agitator).
As the test load I did was with out any detergent (thus no suds to drag on the drum) I think the sensor maybe faulty.
(If this is the case is it a changable component on the board or would the entire board need changed?)

Note: About 3 months prior to this I changed out the bearings and seals in the drum, it has operated correctly since- so I am not thinking that it may be a contributing factor; however, if the suds level is picked up by reading drag in the rotational interia- could this be the probelm - if so how to fix that problem?

#6 J5

J5

    Kohai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 491 posts
  • Location: non-US or Canada

Posted 26 September 2011 - 03:05 AM

sounds like it isnt sensing the water level correctly

when its empty it thinks that there is still water in the machine

i would start filling the machine and set the level low then med the high and check that it reaches at least the low and medium level marks on the agitator accurately

if they are way off you have your answer of a faulty sensor and time for new control board

#7 rbishop967

rbishop967

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 28 September 2011 - 04:57 PM

Well, the sensor seems to working correctly- all the level settings correspond to the agitator markings.
After a few days of soaking in WD40 I finally have got the inner drum out.
Nothing in the outer drum; blew back through the hose and nothing (air and water only) comes out and appears to be clear. (no clogs)

I took the cover off the pump as well and found no issues with the impellers or intake port.
When the wash cycle ended it again beeped (as coming on) and the rinse light flashes.
(Note I left the inner drum out while running this cycle - so I could visually watch the pump.- It works fine-
pumps all the water out).
(Even with the drum and agitator out it gives the "suds error' - with only water present - anyone know how it detects the suds?)

Next suggestion how to proceed?

Thanks much,

#8 J5

J5

    Kohai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 491 posts
  • Location: non-US or Canada

Posted 29 September 2011 - 12:03 AM

suggestion

put the drum back in and test again

the electronics is looking to see when the drum drops back down and engages

#9 DADoESTX

DADoESTX

    Kohai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 321 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Iced tea with a spike of earl grey

Posted 29 September 2011 - 09:09 AM

It'll give an error and/or fail to spin without the basket in place but that's not necessarily related to an oversuds condition which was happening prior to removing the basket.

#10 rbishop967

rbishop967

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 30 September 2011 - 04:39 PM

Tried again -fully reassembled:
Still gives the same error (over suds (stops prior to rinse :gives start up chime)).
So back to square one - no diagnostic indication and will not go into spin mode (Have tried different spin speed settings also).

#11 rbishop967

rbishop967

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 05 October 2011 - 05:08 PM

Looks like I'm not the only one stumped.

#12 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 06 October 2011 - 01:08 AM

After a few days of soaking in WD40 I finally have got the inner drum out.


Note: About 3 months prior to this I changed out the bearings and seals in the drum,


So the hub became seized after only 3 months of use ? some badassed hardness in your water - quite possible that the small sampling chamber in the bottom of the tub has a buildup of crud as well, this could be causing your suds code - what exactly is the code that is showing (which lights blink etc) ?

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#13 rbishop967

rbishop967

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 06 October 2011 - 03:24 PM

It gives the musical beeps (as when first plugged in) then the first rinse light blinks.

When I changed the bearings I was unable to get the inner drum off at that time.
I slid the shaft up through the bottom (with the shaft still in the inner drum).
I would think if there was a problem from this it would have shown during the first operations after reassembly yet it has ran for 3 months no problem.

When I got the inner drum out this time I cleaned the inside of the outer drum as well as the sampling chamber.
I also ran vinegar through it on reassembly to flush any further (non visable) lime deposits in the system.
It pumps out fine - leaving only a small amount of water in the sampling chamber; but after the water is out it continues to pump for about 2 -3 minutes then gives the error code described.

#14 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 06 October 2011 - 04:15 PM

Not following how you did the bearing job without removing the basket, 'specially when the manual points out "The Shaft can be removed in one direction only, towards the inside of the Tub" - and what of the seal, was it not replaced at the same time ???
The fact that it ran a few times after may only prove that's how long it takes to gum up the works. Manual lists that (beeping,first rinse flashing) as an out of balance code - that can be triggered by several things though, such as the basket failing to re-engage
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#15 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 06 October 2011 - 04:19 PM

You can narrow it down more by entering a diagnostic display mode:
Press "Spin Speed Up" and hold button until "Hold" and "Slow Spin Speed" led's turn on - when you release the button, the Led's in the wash progress area will be displaying the last fault code

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

GWL03Us/Gwl10US supplemental Manuals all dusted off and ready to download to willing Apprentice
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics