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frigidaire range model MEF352BGWD OVEN NOT WORKING


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5 replies to this topic

#1 mactech1919

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 10:15 PM

original problem door wouldnt unlock after cleaning.went into back and manually moved gear connected to arm connected to latch and restored unlock position-door opened and closed fine,still does. now problem is clock/contol assembly looks normal and responds to prompts but when it says bake and preheat nothing happens bake element doesnt come on all appropriate lights are on and preheat time countdown going on but no heat. same situation with broil. both elents checked okay as did oven sensor so i changed the clock/timer control. nothing has changed still no heat. any ideas.help!!!

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#2 SANTA

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 10:42 PM

The elements need 240 volts to heat, the clock control and lights only need 120 volts. Might have a bad breaker. Check your voltage at the wall and the back of your range.

#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 10:48 PM

Do the Surface Burner still work ?
“My Rules”:
Rule # 1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.
Rule # 2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule # 1.
Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more. burnin.gif
That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=496231

 

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#4 mactech1919

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 11:00 AM

yes i am showing 240 volts at wall and at connection on oven (end of cord). my thought is i may have gotten bad contol board but trying to find out if any other possibilities. funny you have the same view of self clean as i do but when i tell people that they look at me like im a little off in the head. kinda like they used to look at an old guy i started working with years ago who always told people the belt drive whirlpool washer was the only real washer ever made and dont ever replace it(same guy was known to use a nail to replace a wig wag plunger if he didnt have one with him) he also shared pearls of wisdom like never use the delicate cycle,etc. in his case he deserved the "look" but i fully agree with your disdain for the self cleaning or "self destruction" cycle. any other ideas guys before i replace electronic control, remember ive eliminated temp sensor and elements as cause for oven not coming on . any advice appreciated.

#5 certified tech group 51

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 09:17 PM

Looking at your wire diagram, one side of the bake/broil elements are always 'hot'......Unplug the range, disconnect one terminal of the bake element, keep the loose terminal from touching anything, plug unit in , put unit into bake..........Should be 120 VAC at the bake element terminal and 120 VAC at the loose terminal.....It will tell you which way to look for the lost voltage......... towards the O.C.U. ...........Or.......... a bad wire / connection towards the terminal block......keep us posted......

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 09:35 PM

yes,
OR...
don't need to disconnect anything...
Set the Bake and Broil to "OFF"
Test at Oven Controller:
There should be 120v AC from:
BA to N
L1 to N
BR to N
shouldn't have a Terminal at DLB
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

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