11 replies to this topic

[riggo]

Hello,

I just bought this nice little dryer for $100, and moved it in my subaru over a 20 mile distance ( some bumps). When I plugged it in with our hooking up the vent,it worked fine for 6 loads . I then proceeded to hook up the vent , a head stack of 8 feet with an in-side the house vynol butterfly valve point in the right direction. But there is also a vallve on the outside of the house. anyhow I turned on the dryer and it worked for 5 to 10 minutes. and the top was hot to the touch. I then noticed it stopped and the cloth were dry. At this point I tried to start the dryer with no luck. completly dead.

1. the dryer light is on
2. i disconnected the high limit switch( I believe- the one that is on the rear housing the heater elements) and nothing
2.1 i shorted the leads and nothing
3. tryed to run the cycle with no heat just fluffing - nothing


the dryer will not start do anything after what I assume was running to hot and overheating.

What is a poor man to do, so i am looking for some guidance and help?

John

[Moostafa]

Hello, my nice little friend. The condition you are experiencing is most commonly caused by a thermal fuse that has failed open. You may procure the necessary part here: http://www.repaircli...mber=FSE447GHS0

[Dan Webster]

The thermal fuse is located on the rear wall of the dryer, here is a pictorial which shows how to get to it.

[kdog]

Check for proper 120v/240v power at dryer plug

[RegUS_PatOff]

... in-side the house vynol butterfly valve point in the right direction.
... But there is also a vallve on the outside of the house.

Dryer Vent
Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.



Thermal Limiter # 36 (upper right corner)
(Thermal Fuse)
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1489053

 

[riggo]

Thank-you Senpai,

Now I am looking at my wiring diagram.

is the 'High Limit Thermostat' the same as the 'Thermal fuse' and is this located on the housing for the heating elements?

I tried to use a light tester and get no current going through the 'High Limit Thermostat' with aorange/black line and black lines going to it.

I tested the 'Thermal Limiter' it has two white wires , this devise showed current going through it with my light tester.

Which part should I be replacing ( it is obvious to me - but want to make sure I am referring to the corect name). Where can I get a replacement, can I get this at a lowes store ?

Thanks

John

[riggo]

Hi,

just looked at the diagram and the thermal fuse part #36 seems ok but part #34 doesn't seem to pass my light tester? soam I right to say I should replace Part 36 and can someone let me know the name of it?

thanks

[Comstock_Services]

part 34 is commonly refered to as a high limit Thermostat, part 36 is refered to as a thermal fuse. the thermal fuse, has the 2 white wires connected to it, if it passes a continuity test, meaning that power will go through it then your problem is elsewhere. if part 34 does not allow continuity through it, then it is bad. You cannot buy these parts at lowes, or home depot a link to the part was posted by Reg_us. if part 36 is bad. My advice would be to test the power comming to the dryer first, second replace the plastic vent hose with a rigid metal duct, third check the vent again to be sure that it is clear. Fourth use a multi meter to test the thermal fuse #36 two white wires, then test the high limit, #34.

[riggo]

can someone confirm if either part 34 or 36 are bad and are the cause , can I just remove the parts and tie the connectors together and test the dryer, The dryer should work if they are the cause? OR will I cause further damage by the process

[Dan Webster]

The big one won't kill the door circuit. The small one the limit is tied into the door switch and if tripped will be as if the door is open and the motor circuit will be dead.

[certified tech group 51]

AHH Grasshopper.........You tell us if these two items are good...Do you have a meter to test for continuity??? A " light stick" has its uses, but, they cannot do everything.............1) with the door closed, on high heat , will the unit start/tumble??? If not check the small thermal fuse...2) If it starts and no heat, check the thermostat, it disables the heating element.... If both of the safety devices are good, start the check list, 1) 240 power at the terminal block 2) check the element for continuity and go from there.... get your parts from repairclinic.keep us posted...

[riggo]

Well I bought a volt meter and here are the results

1. measured 125 voltage across the two termianls at the plug
2. measured 250V and 125V across the connectors on the terminal BLOCK inside the dryer
3. With door closed and on high heat and turning the start knob to on position - the unit does NOT start or tumble
4. Checked continuity across the thermal fuse and it has continuity, and the voltage measured 125V across the two terminals
5. checked for continuity across the high limit Thermostat shows open or infinit resistance.


so if the part I have to replace is the 'high limit Thermostat' then when I do the following :
1. remove the leads going into th 'high limit Thermostat' and connect them together , therefore removing the 'high limit Thermostat' from the equation or ricking the syem to think I have replaced the 'high limit Thermostat'
2. I would expect the dryer to work, but alas it does not


what can I check next guys....


thanks for all your help