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GE Washer WCVH6800J2WW

No Spin

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14 replies to this topic

#1 john63

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Posted 30 September 2011 - 11:29 PM

SERIAL NUMBER: AT201995T

I have a customer with a GE (Adora) front-load washer---the complaint is NO SPIN.

Upon arrival--I find that the DRAIN MOTOR runs continuosly.

During TEST MODE---I cannot get past (or further than) the T01 test mode---which also prevents access to stored ERROR CODES (if any).

After filling the tub with water---the tub tumbles quite slowly---about half the normal RPM..

During DRAIN MODE---if I turn off the washer at the control panel---all of the lights will "go out" but the DRAIN MOTOR continues to run for approximately 2 minutes before finally shutting off.

I've inspected the WATER LEVEL SENSOR tube (blew air into and is clear).

The primary suspects appear to be the following:

WATER LEVEL SENSOR (WH12X10307)

MAIN BOARD (WH12X10453)

Possibly the MOTOR CONTROLLER as well.

Even if an ERROR MESSAGE was shown/available---I'm having a great deal of difficulty trusting GE diagnostics information on the machine TECH SHEET---there have been either typos or outright errors in previous "Adora" washers (TECH SHEET DATA) that I've serviced.

Any GE experts among us?

Edited by john63, 30 September 2011 - 11:31 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

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#2 matt1

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Posted 01 October 2011 - 12:59 AM

On this model if the pressure switch does not reset then it will not allow you to access test mode.As you were saying motor pump is running with power off at control panel ,and unable to access test mode.It looks like a bad pressure switch,but I don't be on it yet. You know this unit has pressure dome and hose exactly like the 417,unless you inspect
from inside that drain bellow at the pump,blowing from pressure hose will not justify.I think you will find somethings there.Please give it a try to see what happen.

#3 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 01 October 2011 - 07:27 AM

In my experience, these symptoms correspond with a inverter board failure (motor control)...always strikes me as odd symptoms for this but hey, we are talking about GE imagination.
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#4 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 02 October 2011 - 12:45 PM

Got a schematic?
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

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#5 Moostafa

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Posted 02 October 2011 - 01:25 PM

Got yak?

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Allahu Akbar!


#6 john63

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 03:24 PM

<<<Got a schematic?>>>

***********

Nope :)

A little update...

I replaced the WATER LEVEL SENSOR---which has been revised (made by a different manufacturer).

However---this did not resolve the problem.

I sat down with the customer & offered to repair her 1.5 year old washer for just the parts-cost.

Next---I'm gonna try Kurt's suggestion & replace the INVERTER BOARD.

The interesting thing that seems to support that this component is faulty---is that---although initially water DOES enter the washer---it tumbles briefly (very s-l-o-w-l-y) before the DRAIN MOTOR begins running infinitely.

On LG washers---if the DIAGNOSTICS MODE cannot be accessed---this would be a MAIN BOARD failure.

It appears from other threads on this forum---that GE does things a bit differently.

My customer was happy to have a washer that I cannot diagnose---as I am using it as a "training job" for parts cost only :)

She did remind me that I had told her specifically NOT to buy a GE washer---after her 9 year old Maytag Neptune F/L washer developed a Tub Bearing failure :)

They saw a *deal* too good to pass up---and bought it.

I'll keep ya posted...
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 john63

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 05:06 PM

Customer contacted GE.

GE is sending a new INVERTER BOARD direct-to-the-customer---free (a pleasant surprise there).

Back ordered however---till Oct. 15
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 kdog

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 05:08 PM

Hopefully, she'll give you a few $$$ for your "lesson" - maybe a Keurig machine lol
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#9 john63

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 05:36 PM

Hopefully, she'll give you a few $$$ for your "lesson" - maybe a Keurig machine lol



That would be nice :)

I failed to mention however---that after replacing the WATER LEVEL SENSOR---I was still not able to advance past the "T01" test mode during DIAGNOSTICS.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 john63

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:52 PM

Oops---almost forgot to follow up on this one...

UPDATE:

Well---I am not any more enriched in knowledge on GE Adora front load washers.

After replacing the following components---the washer is repaired.

1) Water Level Sensor: $30.00 <nope>

2) Inverter Board: Free from GE <nope>

3) Main Board: Free from Selling Dealer <nope>

4) Drive Motor: Free from GE <voila! it works!>

However---still **cannot** access DIAGNOSTICS MODE! WTF???

This lesson/training "job" has yielded zip/nada useful information.

Hopefully---someone will join this forum soon---bringing clarity of thought & logic on GE products.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 kdog

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 12:33 AM

thought & logic on GE products.


Don't hold your breath ...............


Moving this to "Appliance War stories" - one of those that leaves you scratching your head
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#12 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 07:26 AM

Just a thought, john..did you measure winding and tach circuit resistance on the bad motor and compare to the new one?
were there significant differences or was the tach open? I fail to see, with any logical thought, how this was the part that fixed this quandary ...
oh well, GE imagination at work. Never ceases to amaze me...
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#13 certified tech group 51

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 11:59 AM

john63 ...Thanks for the up date......Don't ya hate it , but sometimes, we techs are forced to look like parts changing monkeys. :silly: ....I wonder what would of happened if you were to put back the old inverter and the old main board, would it still operate ?? I.E. two parts bad???......I also have used a customers machine as a 'training tool'....Parts at cost, some labor charges, may take a a little while , but it be fixed and I was learned... :groucho:

#14 john63

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 12:43 AM

<<<Don't hold your breath>>>

*********************************

<<<wheeeeze!>>><<<gasp!>>><<<huffing & puffing>>><<<breathing sound>>>

Thanks buddy---I was getting concerned about how I looked in the mirror lately :nuke:

Like most reasonable-minded techs---I find it difficult to just become an authorized GE servicer :borgsmile: for the priviledge of training on their products---due to the lowest labor rates in the industry.

*****************************************

<<<Just a thought, john..did you measure winding and tach circuit resistance on the bad motor and compare to the new one?
were there significant differences or was the tach open?>>>


*****************************************

Kurtius

No---I was more concerned with the fact that I could not access the DIAGNOSTICS/TEST MODE---in spite of a new MAIN BOARD.
Baffling.

*****************************************

CTG 51

That's certainly a possibility.

I recall servicing an LG dryer that needed a replacement MAIN BOARD.

Imagine how silly it felt to have the customer watch me install the new part &-----zippo,nothing.

A call to LG Tech cleared that up.

This particular model had a known issue with the MAIN BOARD and a new/revised Board was introduced---but here's the kicker---it does not ***COMMUNICATE***with the original DISPLAY BOARD. The Display Board *must* be replaced as well to allow proper function of the dryer (both boards speaking the same digital "language").

This was not mentioned at the time in LG Part Look-Up or Technical Service Bulletins.

There's always the possibility that this GE washer has a similar issue---just glad to have it behind me.

These are good customers (and decent people as well). Wouldn't let me leave their home without forcing me to take *something* for my (failed) efforts and jammed a buck & a half into my shirt before they lowered the shotgun :)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 kdog

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 02:17 AM

Lol - awtta get you about 3 K-cups !
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship





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