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Douglasazo

Kenmore Gas Dryer 110.73942101 won't heat

27 posts in this topic

I have a Kenmore 110-73942101 Gas dryer that just stopped heating. I can fix it if I just knew what to do. I have gone through the basics of checking/clearing the venting, washing the lint screen, running a cycle without the vent connected, etc.

The dryer motor runs, drum turns, blows strong from the back of the dryer but the heat does not come on (at all).

I have not started unscrewing stuff and decided i would do some online research first. Any help would be appreciated. I have a sick 5 year old that has the flu right now and we NEED laundry...

Thanks in advance for any help and/or assistance.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

fuse looks fine. It isn't discolored or broken - but I'm not sure what this fuse looks like burnt out. It looks ok though. Should I upload a photo?

fuse looks fine. It isn't discolored or broken - but I'm not sure what this fuse looks like burnt out. It looks ok though. Should I upload a photo?

duh just saw the video. I will check continuity.

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Continuity is fine. Fuse appears good.

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may be a bad Heater Relay ...

you could try swapping the Motor Relay and the Heater Relay

(make notes where the wires go)

If when swapped, if the (now) Motor Relay doesn't work, you know it's bad

OR ... with the Dryer running a normal "heat" cycle,

Test for 120v AC from each side of white Thermal Fuse to chassis (ground) with the Dryer Door open

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Ok, so I reinstalled the white heater fuse and swapped the wires with the adjacent motor relay (42 in the diagram, correct?). I tested to see if it would work and the motor still turns the drum. What should I test next?

Thanks in advance.

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Motor Relay and Heater Relay

motorheaterrelays.jpg

# 37 and # 42

inside Control Panel

P0203288-00001.png

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ok, reversed the motor and heat relays, motor and drum still turn.

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So what happens at the gas burner when you start the dryer ? Can you hear any clicking sounds ? Does the ignitor glow ?

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I was actually going to ask you next about that...I don't really hear any clicking. I wondered about a pilot, but i have never had to light the dryer pilot so I figured that it must self light some how. I think I see what should be the heating apparatus but not having seen it functioning normally, i'm not sure. I have it on high heat and nothing glows when looking from the front panel. No clicking btw either.

Weird thing but i don't think it is relevant. When I switched the relays, the interior light flickered and then did not come back on. Are the relays the same? should I switch them back?

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If it makes a snap and ignitor does not glow, order this:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Dryer-Igniter-Kit/279311/3415

 

00630534.jpg (instructional video included)

If it does not make a snap, test this thermostat on the side of the heat tube



http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/3403140/2926?modelNumber=110.73942101

 



00882050.jpg

If that thermostat has continuity, order this:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Solenoid-Set/279834/3479

 

00928758.jpg



The relays are the same, the bulb in the drum is likely loose

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So the only one that has a video is the second link but here is what I got.

1) Doesn't make a snap.

2) High temp thermostat has continuity

3) I should order the last part but where does it go? I want to order it.

Thanks again.

I should specify... 1st and 3rd are links to the large photos and not to the main page to order.

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So the only one that has a video is the second link but here is what I got.

Oops - sorry, fixed links. are you able to test for voltage (120) at plug to burner ?

And/or measure resistance of ignitor ?

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no problem. thank you. I do not have a voltmeter. I have been testing continuity with a tone generator that has it as a built in feature. If you have any tests I could perform to diagnose the same thing, I'm ready and willing.

Any ideas? or just order the solenoids?

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k, holding both solenoids in my hand. My last question for you is this, it takes a week for me to get that part here on the west coast, should I go buy a multimeter tomorrow and check before ordering or just throw caution to the wind?

Thanks again for all your help.

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Best bet would be to verify voltage to burner, and voltage to ignitor

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dangit, i knew you were going to say that. You aren't rid of me yet then...

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Normally you will hear an audible click, the ignitor will glow for awhile, then another click and - POOF - flameage

since your unit is not making that first click, I would want to check to verify power is getting to the burner

You could do some poking around and make sure the harness connector is pushed completely into the motor

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usually, if the Gas Valve Coil Solenoids are bad, you;d get heat for the part of the Drying cycle.

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New multimeter in hand...we may be past this but here we go

OR ... with the Dryer running a normal "heat" cycle,

Test for 120v AC from each side of white Thermal Fuse to chassis (ground) with the Dryer Door open

Both sides test 120v AC

I love my new toy, errrr, tool BTW, I tested the resistance of the solenoids and they appear to be functioning correctly. I have reinstalled them. Where should I test for the burner and ignitor?

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If it makes a snap and ignitor does not glow, order this: 00630534.jpg (instructional video included)

If it does not make a snap, test this thermostat on the side of the heat tube

00882050.jpg

If that thermostat has continuity, order this: 00928758.jpg

The relays are the same, the bulb in the drum is likely loose

Tested the Ignitor for continuity...nothing. Pulled it out (why do they gotta screw with people and change it to 5/16, everything else is 1/4) and it looks like there is a crack and a burn mark.

This looks like the broken part...is there anything else that goes out at the same time and is typically replaced at the same time or should i be good to go?

Thanks so much guys.

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Ignitor is definitely broken. Just to be thorough, there was no snap.

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