26 replies to this topic

[kdog]

Point of interest: for some reason, this is listed in available parts for this unit (usually hard to find)
http://www.repaircli...er=110.73942101

 

[RegUS_PatOff]

usually, if the Gas Valve Coil Solenoids are bad, you;d get heat for the part of the Drying cycle.

[Douglasazo]

New multimeter in hand...we may be past this but here we go

OR ... with the Dryer running a normal "heat" cycle,
Test for 120v AC from each side of white Thermal Fuse to chassis (ground) with the Dryer Door open

Both sides test 120v AC

Always better to be safe than sorry - more info: http://fixitnow.com/...r-with-no-heat/

http://fixitnow.com/...in-a-gas-dryer/

I love my new toy, errrr, tool BTW, I tested the resistance of the solenoids and they appear to be functioning correctly. I have reinstalled them. Where should I test for the burner and ignitor?

[Douglasazo]

If it makes a snap and ignitor does not glow, order this: (instructional video included)

If it does not make a snap, test this thermostat on the side of the heat tube








If that thermostat has continuity, order this:



The relays are the same, the bulb in the drum is likely loose

Tested the Ignitor for continuity...nothing. Pulled it out (why do they gotta screw with people and change it to 5/16, everything else is 1/4) and it looks like there is a crack and a burn mark.

This looks like the broken part...is there anything else that goes out at the same time and is typically replaced at the same time or should i be good to go?

Thanks so much guys.

[Douglasazo]

Ignitor is definitely broken. Just to be thorough, there was no snap.

[kdog]

yep sounds good - you can check for 120v going to the ignitor at the plastic connector, also the main connector to burner

[Douglasazo]

120v going to the ignitor and also to the burner. Part ordered. Thank you guys for your help.