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LSQ9244EQ - W/P topload, Motor Won't Run


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9 replies to this topic

#1 jbmcq

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 11:03 PM

Hi ,
Recently developed a leak in my washer. Removed the cabinet to determine leak location / not sure if hoses or pump .
Turned out to be pump. While I had the cabinet off I jumpered the lid switch to drain the washer / DOH.
I'm not certain / did not have my old man glasses on + I'm color blind / great combination for electrical trouble shooting hey ! / Not blind just don't see some shades of green + reds normal. Good with electronics at least historically ! Anyway at this point the timer would not activate the pump + motor to drain the washer.
Question is IF I did short the lid switch to ground Is the timer that sensitive that I fried it or is there a fused circuit to save my poor behind?
I have the tech sheet showing how to test the pins on the switch , have not pulled yet to do so / just thought I would get a proffesional opinion as to if I'm a dunce or not ! Is there an easy way to test that switches functionality / is that even a word ??? will have to look in Funk + Wagnells ?
Anyway thank you in advance for your assistance,
Jim M

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 12:40 AM

if the (2) Lid Switch wires were shorted to ground, or to the 3rd Green w/Yellow Stripe, Lid Switch wire,
that would directly connect the 120v Line voltage to ground through one of the Timer Contact...
no Fuse ...
.

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#3 kdog

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 12:44 AM

...... Or the breaker tripped
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#4 kdog

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 12:49 AM

Merged topics, no need to start 2 threads (especially with differing info)

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#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 12:52 AM

Merged topics, no need to start 2 threads (especially with differing info)

:bangin:

... I believe those were (2) different models :whistling:
.

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#6 jbmcq

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 12:22 PM

Hey Sensei KDOG please don't beat me over the head without just cause , Ha!

Yes it was 2 different washers I was talking about. Therefore different posts. Can we separate them so they can be addressed individually so no confusion ?
Should I do that or leave it to whoever combined them ?
1- The newer Kenmore model # 110.20912990 is the one I was looking for testing info for the motor windings, the symptom is the motor hums, according to the guy I got it from. that usually does indicate bad capacitor, if power IN readings are within range 110-115 vac / I have not begun to trouble shoot this yet other than testing the capacitor with a VOM indicating it's bad.
Will take it to the motor shop to verify before buying new one but I'm pretty sure it's bad. REG US can the Speed (Cycle) Switch cause that symptom , motor no go just hums?
2- The older whirlpool model # LSQ9244EQ0 where I jumper-ed the lid switch never tripped the breaker. As I recall .
The timer worked fine to that point . I took the cabinet off to see where the leak was coming from, jumper-ed the lid + advance the timer to begin spin cycle. I could not get the timer to drain + spin but it did and still does fill + agitate. To test the timer part # 3951703 IF I fried it should there Not be a short to ground from the drain + spin contact or an open lead on these? Is that the correct way to test the switch other than prying it open + visually looking for burn marks? Continuity from point a-b would show good , yes ? Reg US is there a YouTube video for testing the timer? I did see one about testing the motor just have not had time to view it yet.
Thanks again for any clarification for my poor addled brain.
Jim
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#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 12:33 PM

... can the Speed (Cycle) Switch cause that symptom , motor no go just hums?
... older whirlpool model # LSQ9244EQ0

Start a "New Topic" for the Whirlpool with whatever "title" you want..
I may be able tom move some of the messages over there ..
1) Speed Switch can cause the "hum" and Motor not to run (may be connecting 2 speeds)
a bad Timer can also cause the Motor to "hum" and not run (both Start or Run connections not energized)
2) If it Agitates, that "possibly blown" section of the Timer should be OK
Does the Motor "hum" during Spin ? (could be bad Timer)
If no noise... Lid Switch will prevent Spin & Drain
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#8 kdog

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 06:34 PM

We should take ol K DOG out + give him a Little WHAT FOR for causing the confusion re the posts :deal: . HA !


:wub:

Yes - I deserve a spanking for this one ! Many Apologies, and it wouldn't be the first time this Old Dog'd been beat

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#9 kdog

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Posted 07 October 2011 - 07:00 PM

Have attempted to restore original posts - let me know if you don't like it; going to chop off my happy fingers

:peepwallA:
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#10 jbmcq

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:17 PM

KDOG , All is forgiven , not that I was ever really p.oed / capacitor on the newer Kenmore was the culprit . See my post on the other thread. I'm back in business.
Thanks for your assistance.
Jim
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