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Kenmore Dishwasher Tsunami - leaks from bottom of door Model: 665.15979990

Kenmore leaks door bottom

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23 replies to this topic

#1 raintoday

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 07:45 PM

I have an 10 year old Kenmore dishwasher that has been absolutely great up until last month when water started leaking from the bottom of the door when the machine's pump first comes on. From the outside it looks like a wave is generated when the pump starts and water simply washes over the front edge of the tub.

I've replaced the bottom door seal, the main seal (because there was a small amount of damage to it), and the top bushing on the lower wash arm. After thinking that the machine was overfilling I modified the overflow shut off sensor to reduce the water level. I've inspected the wash motor and all the Torx screws are tight and the gasket isn't visible so I presume it's still in place. All interior fittings, wash arms tubes, etc look perfect too - no splits or damage. The interior vent is clean and clear.

I've found a couple of other mentions of this exact problems with the same model, but no mention of a solution. Any ideas?

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#2 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 08:46 PM

Suspect a crack in the wash arm (lower)...also see if the connector tube for the upper spray arm is intact and meeting up with the outlet on the rear distribution tube...
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#3 raintoday

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 09:52 PM

Suspect a crack in the wash arm (lower)...also see if the connector tube for the upper spray arm is intact and meeting up with the outlet on the rear distribution tube...


Thanks for the response.

The lower wash arm is stainless, has crimped edges and seems to be in perfect shape. I've checked the interior carefully 3 times with a flashlight (thinking I may have missed something) and am unable to find anything at all wrong with any of the interior tubes, spray arms or fittings - everything fits tightly in place and looks like new.

This model has what seems to be an electronically controlled vent with wiring that attaches to the vent assembly. Is this vent supposed to open when the pump first turns on to equalize pressure? I've read in a couple of forums that a clogged vent can cause an overflow. Could a failure of the vent valve cause the same kind of problem?

#4 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 07:47 AM

Problem: Water may leak from the bottom corners of the front door during intial start-up.
Cause: During initial start-up or when the unit is stopped to add a dish, a pressure surge may occur. If this occurs, water may leak out out from the bottom of the front door.
Correction: Air inlet assembly has been redesigned. Order and install Air Inlet Assembly, Part# 675828. The kit will include detailed instructions on proper installation.

In your case, also check the vent assemly Part# 9742770 -- it might be stuck, you should feel a rush of air blow out during initial start-up...

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 10 October 2011 - 02:38 PM.

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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 07:56 AM

Part links:

Air Inlet Assembly

Door Vent Assembly

 

Comes with a 365-day, no-hassle Return Policy:  http://www.repaircli...r/Return-Policy
 

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Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 17 January 2014 - 07:29 PM.
Added door vent assembly part link


#6 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:09 AM

Edited post above, after-thought.
We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

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#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:29 AM

Domo again, Steve.

BTW, saw you come into the chat room and leave. Just wanted to let you know that we are not booting you from it! All Masters are allowed in there. If you're having trouble using it, try a different browser. Firefox versions have been buggy lately. Chrome is pretty good.

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:05 PM

... The kit will include detailed instructions on proper installation.

675815.pdf
.

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#9 raintoday

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:16 PM

Thanks for all the responses. I disassembled the door and did a close inspection of the vent actuator which is working properly. It turns out on this model (at least according to a Whirlpool timing diagram found online) the vent is supposed to close before the pump and stay closed until the dry cycle. It does exactly that. I found mention of a lower vent barrier in one of the parts diagrams so I took apart the door and then cleaned it and the lower seal. I removed all the interior tubes and spray arms and two of us inspected them carefully for the fourth time. We could not find anything even cosmetically wrong with any part so I put everything back in place, started it up and...

had another mini natural disaster. A wave swept out of the bottom of the door and carried the dog away. If I don't get this thing fixed soon the dog's going to be the lucky one. Any other suggestions?

#10 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:37 PM

Did you put your hand over the vent and feel for air escaping as the unit starts? If the initial surge doesn't escape through the vent, it exits out of the bottom of the door, pushing a wave of water out....

Also, this unit is known for loose screws under the lower spray arm, the circle of torx bit screws that hold the pump outlet down onto the filter assembly. This allows water to blow past the pump outlet seal and out the door...

Edited by Chat_in_RI, 10 October 2011 - 01:41 PM.

We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

#11 raintoday

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 02:58 PM

I've checked the torx screws and they're all tight. I inspected the vent while starting a cycle and it starts in the open position and then closes before the pump starts. It opens again when the dry cycle starts. If that's not correct I guess the control board's closing it at the wrong time and that sounds expensive...

#12 raintoday

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 03:03 PM

I should have mentioned that since the vent is closed, there is no air escaping.

#13 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 04:14 PM

In some instances where the water supply temperatures are excessively high (150F or higher), leaks may still occur at initial start-up (another known issue).

If the water temp is 150F or higher, order and install the Wax Motor Resistor Kit, Part# 675833. This delays the vent closure so that the initial start-up pressure escapes out the vent, and not under the door... Hot water being sprayed by the pump expands the air in the tub creating the pressure.

This can be a tough one, excluding bent hinges and other causes of door leaks...
We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 05:57 PM

Kenmore Dishwasher Tsunami
captbb756f9eacec45ffaf8.jpg



... Wax Motor Resistor Kit, Part# 675833

 

http://www.repaircli...54&N=829659

 


675833.jpg

675833 installation Instructions
675831.pdf

Service Pointer
4317281.pdf

665.15979990
Tech Sheet - 9744258.pdf
VENT ACTUATOR 600-1800 Ω
"USED ONLY ON SOME MODELS, OTHERWISE OPEN" :whistling:


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#15 raintoday

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 06:33 PM

The water temperature in my house is about 110F so that shouldn't be an issue, but when taking the spray arm off again for the 12th time I did notice one thing...

The center nut that holds the lower spray arm down looks slightly worn in the area that horizontally centers the wash arm. It has a barely noticeable hourglass shape and looks kind of like this: ") (". It's minor enough that I'm not even sure it's worn without comparing it to a new one, but for now I wrapped it with a couple of layers of electrical tape and put it back in. When I started the dishwasher it sounded different - I didn't hear the whooshing sound that it's made for as long as I can remember (even when it doesn't leak) and this time there was no tsunami. Since the electrical tape will significantly reduce the water flow it may be a phantom fix. I won't know for sure until I get a new nut, but will post back here with an update when I do.

#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 07:22 PM

VENT ACTUATOR 600-1800 Ω
"USED ONLY ON SOME MODELS, OTHERWISE OPEN" :whistling:


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#17 raintoday

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 09:09 AM

Looking back through the thread I realized that I focused completely on the vent assembly and didn't look at the air inlet assembly that was also mentioned. A couple of questions for the experts:

1. I'm guessing that this air inlet assembly is used to vent the initial air blast that an always open front vent would otherwise allow, is that correct?

2. Is this a part that can be inspected to see if it's working properly, or do I simply need to replace it and hope for the best?

Thanks

#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 09:23 AM

do I simply need to replace it and hope for the best?


We don't do Hopium here at Appliantology, never seems to last.

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No need for it either-- buy the part thru the part links on this site and install it. If it doesn't fix the problem, return it for a refund!

#19 raintoday

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 09:48 AM


<snip> No need for it either-- buy the part thru the part links on this site and install it. If it doesn't fix the problem, return it for a refund!


I'd do just that, but the part is out of stock at Repair Clinic and won't even ship for 7-14 days or more. This thing will be in the dumpster (along with me) long before that. No point in pulling it out and inspecting it?

#20 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 10:12 AM

"USED ONLY ON SOME MODELS, OTHERWISE OPEN" :whistling:

... can't you just disconnect the Vents ?
(and leave them always "open)
.

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