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CJrun

GE model number WHRE5550K1WW top loader, no agitation, no spin

29 posts in this topic

The belt appears fine and everything moves smoothly.

The lid switch has continuity when the lid is closed.

The thermal fuse has continuity across it.

The LED flashes @ 1s on/1s off when in standby, BUT ALSO when start a wash or spin cycle (instead of flashing 0.5s on/ 0.5s off when 'running').

I DO NOT seem to be getting 120 V between the Red/White and the Red/Black. My meter appeared to jump up to around 120 V when I first started a cycle, but I could not get 120 again, during that same cycle.

I'm stumped!

Any ideas?

Thanks!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I don't have exact wiring diagram for you model,but with a similar one.If you don't have 120 v at RB and WR at motor connector,then you fuse link is opened. I hope we are talking the same fuse here. Fuse link is located near lid switch, that was wrapped around in black tape with other wires (hidden).

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I definitely have continuity across the Thermal Fuse link (the one you described).

By the way, just curious: would the LED even have power if the fuse link lacked continuity?

Thanks!

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... would the LED even have power if the fuse link lacked continuity?

... no

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That's my thinking.

Which makes me think my issue is either a dead motor and an inaccurate attempt on my part to read voltage at the motor, or an issue in the control panel, up top. I really think I got a solid connection into the Red/White Red/Black wires, where they enter the circuit board on the motor. I know I saw it briefly jump to @ 126 V, then drop to near zero, when I started a wash cycle. No matter how I jiggled and adjusted my probes, I could never get voltage across those two wires again, during the run cycle.

It seems to me that could be two things: a fault up in the Control Panel, or a bad motor and the Control Panel is almost instantly cutting off the power signal to the motor, because of some other safety device, besides the Thermal Fuse, up in/near the Control Panel.

I supppose I could test this by running 120 V directly to the motor at the Red/White and Red/Black terminals, but I really don't want to try that.

Electricity doesn't scare me, but I really am a Grasshopper and am concerned I could fry something if I try something that drastic.

This machine is practically new, only two years old. We could pay a pro and eat more beans, for awhile, but times are a bit rough, right now.

I would be happy to make a contribution to the Beer Fund if you folks could keep me from having to pay some local guy to replace everything, until he figures this out. I don't mind paying a pro, if I need one, but it seems to me we are still in diagnosis mode, here. Money is so tight, here, that I can't afford to pay somebody else to say, "Well, Dayum".

I think I have read all of your relevant forums; I think my problem is something different, or it's just a dead motor on a 2-year old machine.

Help! Gotta go feed Boyz, now.

(Thanks)

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Hi CJrun, Can you disconnect C2 and take the voltage measurement at RB and WR it has to be around 120v if wiring is correct.Now connect C2 back,put it to spin and take voltage at filter.if less than 107v then it 's not going to work,problem may be at your outlet.There are many possibilities we have to eliminate one at the times.

- RB and WR disconnected at motor will always around 120 v(assume the fuse is good) .Control board on top will not affect this at all.

- Try reset by unplug the unit for 30 second,plug it back and open and close lid 5 or more times in 12 second period.

-I am just try to help,but if my suggestion is out of place,then I am sorry,

Edited by matt1

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OK, I have no schematic, but have disconnected a connector:

http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s188/flacoblanco/?action=view&current=Connector.jpg

I guess that is C2. In spin mode, I got a steady 118.6 V across RW (center-left wire) and RB (center right).

How do I check the voltage at the filter? Is that anywhere in view in this image?

http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s188/flacoblanco/?action=view&current=BigPicture.jpg

I'm also interested in the outlet issue. Now and then, over 2 years, the breaker has tripped. For that reason, I have a new breaker sitting here to install, once I shut off the main power. Could that iffy breaker be the issue, even though the pump and LED are getting voltage?

Domo arigato, again

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may be similar

gewashermotorinverter.jpg

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OK, here's what I get:

?action=view&current=InverterMotorTestResults.jpg

in case that doesn't work, here's the URL:

http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s188/flacoblanco/?action=view&current=InverterMotorTestResults.jpg

(not sure how your image codes work, around here. is it ahref, IMG?)

I'm not sure I tested the C2 pins properly. Do I wait until it completely fills then starts (not) Agitating?

Ikkō-ikki mentioned testing RB/RW at the filter which appears, from Sensei's schematic, to be up beyond the Lid Switch. I'm not sure where to find that; is it up in the top Control area?

Thanks for any help, folks!

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Yes the filter is in the control panel. the power cord attaches to it.

Keep the connectors attached to the motor.

At C2 across pins 3 & 5 you should have 120VAC at anytime the machine is plugged into the wall.

If not then you have a bad outlet, cord, or wire.

You should also have 120V at C2 accross pins 3 & 6 anytime the machine is plugged in

and the "lid is closed" if the lid is closed and you dont have 120V at 3 & 6 then your lid

switch is bad.

If both those tests pass and you have 120V

on both sets of wires turn the machine to the spin cycle

and turn it on.

do the previous tests again "with the lid down"

if 120V dissappears when turning the machine on

in the spin cycle then the control board is bad.

If the voltage stays constant but the machine does

not spin them you have a bad motor.

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I have 120 VAV in both tests, so it does not appear to be the Control Board.

I have constant voltage in the spin cycle.

What I never have is any DCV signal in the C7 pins. Is that the Motor, or does a new Motor automatically mean a new Inverter? Is a new Inverter a separate purchase, or do they come togehter? I feel like the motor must be a DC motor and it just isn't ever seeing the DC signal it needs.

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Look at all the voltage result, it looks like all wire harness,lid switch,and main control okay. Except at C7, can you removed C7 and take resistance (mode shifter) .

It should register at around 67 ohms,old model 97 ohms.

-If it's opened then mode shifter is bad ,but unit will work only noisy.

-If it's shorted then mode shifter is bad, and your motor (inverter board ) is also damaged.

- Filter is at the control board, under load if voltage drop under 107 v then it will not work. Look like not in this case.

- Did you get a chance to reset inverter board as I mention on earlier post?

- Inverter board and motor is one unit,you can't purchased it separately.

Edited by matt1

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Oh! And if the Motor and Inverter come as a single part, I see I can order parts through you, but how long would it take (on average), to receive the part?

My better half is following different types of forums where guys are coming and poking around these machines, then taking forever to get the parts. Her perspective is the laundry that is piling up, of course. She doesn't care whether it is the motor or the inverter (I do).

If the Inverter/Motor are a single part, would it be possible for me to get this in 2 or 3 days? If so, I'll just order it tonight and not worry about which is the culprit.

Thanks again!

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Hi CJrun, This is my hobby I love to help if I could. I don't sell anything. Grand Masters will help and answer those question.

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Ikkō-ikki

I get 66.9 ohms across the C7

I reset the Inverter Board several times, plus checked the outlet and replaced the Breaker (that had tripped off a few times, since we installed the washer)

What's the consensus of the Dojo? Order the new Motor/Inverter?

Sleep on the couch?

Thanks!

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I am afraid you will need motor/inverter .

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Thank you, Folks. It looks like the item is out of stock, with a 1 to 2 week waiting period.

I guess it's off to the laundromat for us!

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Crapitty Crap!

I couldn't wait 2 weeks for the motor and shopped around locally, finding one in a Mom and Pop place near me. So far so good.

I got the new one installed (what insane person designed that mounting and belt installation!!!!!!) and started a small load and it filled, leveled, agitated, just fine. I put everything back together and started a bigger load and HOLY CRAP what an awful racket! The whole basket/motor assembly is just a-scraping and a dragging along the bottom of the housing. Are you KIDDING me?!

Grumble, grumble. I guess I need 4 new shocks, huh?

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has this Washer worked OK for you up till now at this location ?

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It worked OK for 2.5 years in this location. I recently heard an occasional noise. When the motor died, it may have gotten very noisy with no one around to hear it. Everything's level, but when the basket is filled with clothes and water, even a medium sized load, the suspended basket and motor are very near the bottom of the housing and the Drive Wheel nicks along this raised tab on the housing.

I read the post named something like, "Why is my recent GE/Maytag, etc. appliance a piece of crap?" Wow! I wish we had read that before we bought this machine. Anyway, apparently after having spent north of $200 for a new motor, I need to spend $100 for 4 new shocks. And now I know I'm just at the beginning of what will be a long and expensive lifetime of repairs on this thing. So maybe I'll get some new shocks and eventually we'll just get new machines, like the Staber or Whirpool Duet series I have seen mentioned, here.

For today, though, I did something different, just to get us washing clothes. I knew I had a nice, hard, oak dowel in the rafters of the carport. An old tool handle wood probably work. 1 1/4" seemed to be perfect. I cut a couple of grooves to just over half the depth, to accomodate the shock absorber rod, like this:

http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s188/flacoblanco/?action=view&current=ShockShim.jpg

(how do you post images, here?)

I wound up only having to shim one shock to get the clearance I needed, by sliding the shim onto the rod, between the spring and the plastic housing. You could also shim between the spring if it is still in the plastic housing, and the metal washer below the housing. Anyway, we are washing now and know we are going to have to get (another) new washer, but a better one. Someday. Right now, I don't know that I want to put anymore money into this "new" one! Honestly, this one was "rated highly" from some sources, when we researched, before buying.

Anyway, thanks for all of your help. From now on, this is where we will research our appliance purchases and a contribution to the Beer Fund is forthcoming!

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not common for those shocks to go bad...but, it can happen.

Normally the noise your describing is due to the bottom of the washer bowing

upward . get a rubber mallet and a rod of some type and know the bow back down and the noise should stop.

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Sensei, the top of the basket, near the lid, was hanging well down when loaded; close to a 2-inch gap, compared to when empty. The clearance for the Drive Wheel, as it oscillated a bit around the floor of the housing was scant. It's still got barely 1/4" clearance over the raised tabs, near the front and a half inch over the left-to-right stringers embossed into the lower housing. I still have the front off and a straight-edge says the bottom is horizontal. The basket is sagging, so I think the springs are just shot. They still return the basket near to the lid when empty, but they sag way down with even a half a load.

In my case, the shocks appear to be shot in 55 months.

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get the shocks from Repairclinic so you can return if needed.

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You don't need new shocks!!!!! Even brand new shocks will bottom out or be very close to be bottomed out with a full tub of water and clothes.

These have a known problem of the front apron where the front shocks mount bending down. It's been mentioned in these forums before and there is a service bulletin on it. You could have bent the front apron down when working on the washer.

The tabs that hang down from the bottom where what the shipping rod went thru to keep everything in place when shipping, if the two tabs with the holes thru them are what is hitting it would not hurt to bend them flat.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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