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Kenmore wire insulation melted (mod 110.60912990)

Kenmore Dryer 110 60912990

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5 replies to this topic

#1 binovc

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:29 PM

Our dryer recently stopped heating. No biggie normally as I have been there once or twice. I have in the past replaced various components such as the thermal fuse, and heating element, and belt.
This time when I went in I found the immediate source of "no heat" was that one of the wires to the heat element had become disconnected.
I noticed the female terminal was fairly loose, burn marks on both female and male terminals, and also the insulation near the terminal had started bubbling. See pictures here:
http://www.flickr.co...57627738113853/
My question is what caused this? The element and the high limit thermostat and the hight limt fuse all ohmed out good. Is it possible one of these high limit switches is faulty and does not trip when it overheats? Is there a way to test the component to see if it works? I think the fuse is a one-shot deal however - once it trips it is no longer any good.

Second question is a general configuration question. I reviewed a youtube video (thank you britishjames, very helpful!) to refresh my memory how to disassemble the dryer, and noticed that in the video, there is a metal shield positioned vertically in front of the heating element duct (A picture of it is included in my flickr set). On my dryer, this metal shield is horizontal (see the pics). Why are they different? Did I maybe somehow re-assemble this part incorrectly in the distant past? Are these shields positioned differently on different models, or is mine on wrong?
Thanks!

Edited by binovc, 10 October 2011 - 12:31 PM.


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#2 Comstock_Services

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 12:51 PM

ok first question.... Replace your high limit and the thermal fuse on the heater box. and then repair the wire if not included in the kit. http://www.repaircli...er=110.60912990


Second question.... that piece of metal shield, is supposed to be just like in the pic for the video. some how it is positioned incorrectly.

Make sure that the heater is not grounded to the metal plate that holds it, or the element case.

Edited by Comstock_Services, 10 October 2011 - 12:56 PM.

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#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 02:43 PM

... terminal was fairly loose, burn marks on both female and male terminals, and also the insulation .

loose / dirty / corroded connections cause heat
be sure to use hi-temp replacement connectors
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=240986

 


Heat Shield # 50
P9050367-00003.png


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#4 binovc

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 08:55 AM

Thank you for the replies - I have ordered the repair parts (I found a set that includes the replacement wire that is damaged). If anyone hasn't seen their fill of "too much lint", I added a picture to the set http://www.flickr.co...57627738113853/ showing the build-up in the fan. I will be replacing the foam seals where they have deteriorated over the years. This dryer was thoroughly de-linted within the past 2 years - I don't think this is a normal 2-year lint accumulation.
(Beer fund contribution forthcoming)

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 10:55 AM

... "too much lint",
.. I will be replacing the foam seals
... (I found a set that includes the replacement wire that is damaged)

1) how's your "Lint Filter" ?
does it catch any lint ?
Is it cleaned before or after every load ?
2) ... The Blower Seals .. the (2) #27 Drum Seals ... the (2) #6 & #7 Lint Chute Seals ??

3) http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=3140

 

00554990.jpg

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1185320

 

01025606.jpg


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#6 binovc

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 03:27 PM

Lint filter works and is cleaned each load.
The blower hosing rear seal is in bad shape. Also there looks like remnants of a seal between the front panel and the lint chute. The drum seals seem to be in decent shape - they're there, fuzzy, and not broken anyway.




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