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Maytag MDE8600AYW runs too hot

hot temperature selection

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18 replies to this topic

#1 rebailey3

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 01:49 PM

Hi there!

My craigslist Maytag MDE8600AYW is a bit of an overachiever and completely single-minded, it runs hot hot hot. So I've been using it by letting it run hot and then switching to Air Fluff. I've done a cursory google search for this problem and most people seem to have just the opposite problem: no heat.

Any direction on how to go about solving this myself would be greatly appreciated!

Rachel

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 02:55 PM

Sounds like a classic grounded heating element. This is where the heating coil breaks and one end of it contacts the casing, making it stay hot anytime and all the time when the timer is set to a heating cycle.

Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel to get access to the heating element. This has dissassembly and replacement instructions:



And this video shows you how to test the heating element to see if it's grounded against the casing:



Here's the part link for the heating element ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=MDE8600AYW

#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 03:12 PM

Sounds like a classic grounded heating element.

... yes,
OR
previous Craigslist owner bypassed a few of the Thermal safety devices .. :burnin:
.

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#4 rebailey3

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 11:01 PM

Thanks! Off to the depot buy a multi-meter!

Rachel

#5 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 05:59 PM

Your particular dryer is a bit difficult to get into however,
the testing methods that were previously posted are still correct.

This link will show you how to properly get into your unit.

http://appliantology...__fromsearch__1


The actual heating element is item# 5 in the diagram below.
It comes in the canister but you will have to transfer your thermal
fuse item # 11 and the heat shield item # 6 from the old canister.

If confirming that your element is bad the part link is below.

Hear is the part link

Element Assembly

http://www.repaircli...Y308612/1246024


00557553.jpg







900


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#6 rebailey3

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 11:51 AM

Hi guys!

I was easily able to pull the canister out of the dryer, so the next question is: do I need to take the element completely out of the canister to test it?

I tested it where each wire terminated on the outside of the canister and it registered as "good" on the meter. I also tested the wires inside, right before they attached to the clip that leads to the outside. (I really hope you are able to follow my descriptions!)

All that said, if the element is good, what do I test next?

Thanks!

Rachel

Rachel

#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 11:58 AM

... do I need to take the element completely out of the canister to test it?
... if the element is good, what do I test next?

.. a good element may read about 10 OHMs ...
ALSO, make sure to test between (either wire) to the case (housing)
The OHM meter should not show any reading .. (infinite)
(as shown in the video)
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#8 rebailey3

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 03:11 PM

Thanks GMF, tested between the wire and the housing and there was no reading.

#9 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 05:44 PM

Sounds like your element is good.

The next tests would need to be performed with the dryer running,
but before we go there i suggest reassembling the dryer and try running
a cycle with the vent disconnected from the dryer and see if its still
getting too hot.
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#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 07:46 PM

:whistling: After re-reading your original post,
if it doesn't heat on the Air-Fluff cycle, then the Heater Element wouldn't be shorted to chassis.

With the Dryer running with the Vent disconnected, measure the temperature of the air

 


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#11 rebailey3

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 11:44 AM

Doh! Oh well, it was a wonderful opportunity to show my 4 year old how her mommy can do anything! lol!

So I had a meat thermometer, and the one in the pic said "do not leave in roast" so.......I used it. Let me know if I need a "special" one.

I let the dryer run for about 5 minutes, then I held the thermometer 2/3 of the way in the vent and held there for a minute or two. The reading was 160 at delicate, medium and regular. (I didn't check the in between options.) Also, I started at delicate and moved on up the scale.

Rachel

#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 11:58 AM

... The reading was 160 at delicate, medium and regular. .

that's not too hot ..
I'm not sure about the different temperature settings,
may be a bad Temperature Switch OR Cycling Thermostat

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.
.

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#13 rebailey3

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 12:16 PM

I think I might be crazy, but when i opened the door after measuring from the back, it didn't seem as hot as it had been.

I'm on target with the rest of the list: short flexible metal that is not crimped, etc.

Is there a way to test the switch or cycling thermostat? I watched the video for testing the switch for continuity, but that's not applicable right?

Rachel

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 01:06 PM

... Is there a way to test the switch or cycling thermostat?

... if you have a voltmeter ...
check to see if the AC voltage changes across the Purple and the White wires on the Temperature Switch as you slide it.
Also check to see if the Blower Wheel is loose on the Motor Shaft.
Older models don't have a threaded shaft.
Posted Image
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#15 rebailey3

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 10:18 PM

Okie dokie, before I dive in to this next step I thought I'd share before I delve into testing the voltage.

There is an option for "Extra Low" temp next to the main temperature slider. This is controlled by two buttons "On" and "Off". I tested the air temp and there was no difference when I selected "on".

#16 rebailey3

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 04:23 PM

O. M. G. Now the washer has filled, and will not run.

#17 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 04:49 PM

LOL, post a new topic for the washer....at least your in the right place ;).

Did you do the temperature test with the vent disconnected or did you stick the thermometer through the vent.

delicate is usually has an average temp. of 145 ..normal usually 155..again, thats an average temp...
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#18 rebailey3

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 05:05 PM

I tested it with the vent disconnected.

Ok, so before posting about the washer I thought I'd check out past posts and the FAQs. Took clothes out, redistrubuted....nothin'. Then I stuck a paper clip against the lid actuator. Started right up.

Added clothes BACK, stuck the paper clip in.....nothin'

Guess I will remove the stuff.....again. And pray that I can at least get the water out. Then I'll start another posting adventure.

The only bright side....this happened before my husband started the Rit Dye project for his halloween costume. So at least I'm not dealing with dye.

#19 rebailey3

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 05:26 PM

Posted Image

Problem solved. Appropriately.







Recent blog entries on this topic

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How to test and replace the heating element in an older-model Maytag electric dryer

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 10 October 2011 - 04:39 PM

Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel to get access to the heating element. This video has dissassembly and replacement instructions:



And this video shows you how to test the heating element to see if it's grounded against the casing:
...

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